i was wondering what kinda oil should be used in the 1jz? 10w30 non syntheic? I'm not sure but i think turbo cars aren't suppose to run syntheic oil? could anyone tell me why?
what kinda oil to use in 1j?
- Thread starter 86_sports_1jz
- Start date
i decided to use Royal Purple 5W30 jdub and jetjock have allot to say on the subject
check out this link, Great information about choosing your oil
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/
check out this link, Great information about choosing your oil
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/
forgot to mention it is fine to use synthetic in your turbo motor, from what i understand using a proper synthetic is better for your turbo motor then a natural oil.
Great link! This should be stickied somewhere.
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/[/QUOTE]
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/[/QUOTE]
bobiseverywhere said:
Mobile 1 is an excellent oil, but it's not a true synthetic. It's a Group III hydrocracked mineral oil. If I'm going to pay syn prices, I want a true syn oil.
Castrol German 0W-30 and Royal Purple are a Group IV PAO base, Redline and VP Racing are a Group V ester base, Amsoil is a PAO/ester blend. All of these are true syns...the German Castrol is the least expensive. Ester based oils are the best, but also the most expensive. The German Castrol and Redline have a high moly content in their additive pack. You can run any of these oils 7-8000 miles with no problem with a filter change at 4K. Longer if you do oil analysis.
You want to use a true syn in a turbo car. Synthetic oil takes the heat from running through the turbo much better and provides superior lubicration across the spectrum.
Castrol German 0W-30 and Royal Purple are a Group IV PAO base, Redline and VP Racing are a Group V ester base, Amsoil is a PAO/ester blend. All of these are true syns...the German Castrol is the least expensive. Ester based oils are the best, but also the most expensive. The German Castrol and Redline have a high moly content in their additive pack. You can run any of these oils 7-8000 miles with no problem with a filter change at 4K. Longer if you do oil analysis.
You want to use a true syn in a turbo car. Synthetic oil takes the heat from running through the turbo much better and provides superior lubicration across the spectrum.
on my 1j i used 15/50.. but i think maybe it was a little thick.. on my 2j i'll probably use 10/30
tissimo said:
That seems to be the consensus...at least for their top tier EP oil. Exxon is not saying, but various oil analysis is pointing at Group III for Mobile 1.
Consider the German Castrol 0W30 (European Formula)...it's an excellent oil and not nearly as expensive as RP or Redline. A good filter is just as or more important...Wix or PureOne are the best. NAPA Gold is a Wix filter
tissimo said:
I find that interesting too.The reason I was using it was specifically of the fact that It was a full Synthetic as I had seen an article in one of the AUtomobile mags. They did a comparison of a bunch of these oils.
maybe they have changed....but I still use it wthout any problems.
jdub said:That seems to be the consensus...at least for their top tier EP oil. Exxon is not saying, but various oil analysis is pointing at Group III for Mobile 1.
Consider the German Castrol 0W30 (European Formula)...it's an excellent oil and not nearly as expensive as RP or Redline. A good filter is just as or more important...Wix or PureOne are the best. NAPA Gold is a Wix filter
Where to buy the Euro formula oils?
Mobile 1 did change a few month ago...changed the add pack as well. It's still an excellent oil, but from what I've been reading on it, they switched to a Group III base stock vs the POA base used previously.
What's ironic is Exxon sued Castrol several years ago over the term "synthetic". Specifically, Castrol was using a Group III base for most of it's SynTec oils (the German Castrol is the exception...the laws in Europe require a synthetic to be Group IV or higher). Exxon was using a PAO base and tried to get Castrol to stop selling their line as a synthetic...Exxon lost the suit. Now it looks like they are pulling the same stunt.
AutoZone carries the German Castrol...it only comes in 0W30, has European Formula on the front, and "Made in Germany" on the back.
Here's the data sheet:
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/b...local_assets/downloads/p,q/pds_syntec_usa.pdf
Aaron - no offense, but I would not use a 50W multi-grade in my motor even if it was a synthetic and if had an unlimited supply for free. It will run ok, but is not good for the motor long term.
What's ironic is Exxon sued Castrol several years ago over the term "synthetic". Specifically, Castrol was using a Group III base for most of it's SynTec oils (the German Castrol is the exception...the laws in Europe require a synthetic to be Group IV or higher). Exxon was using a PAO base and tried to get Castrol to stop selling their line as a synthetic...Exxon lost the suit. Now it looks like they are pulling the same stunt.
AutoZone carries the German Castrol...it only comes in 0W30, has European Formula on the front, and "Made in Germany" on the back.
Here's the data sheet:
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/b...local_assets/downloads/p,q/pds_syntec_usa.pdf
Aaron - no offense, but I would not use a 50W multi-grade in my motor even if it was a synthetic and if had an unlimited supply for free. It will run ok, but is not good for the motor long term.
jdub said:
240k+ miles on Jose's 1jz and 317whp on a dynapack on origional stock turbos disagrees with you. :biglaugh:
Does it need to go 400k miles to be considered "long term"? :icon_razz
I'm no oil expert, but isn't 0-30 for little high reving na engines, and for fuel economy?
I'm not telling anyone what to do when it comes to oil, but everyone I have ever talked to in the turbo engine business (be it building engines or racing) says go 20/50. Or for synthetic go 5/50 or 15/50. If I was going to go with a lighter weight it would be 10/40. Keep in mind that this is in CA where it's never freezing.
But like I said, this is just my experience, your mileage may vary. (pun intended)
When we do 1jz swaps, we usually put in Castrol 10/40 and have them change it in 500 miles with whatever they choose.
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I'm not doubting it...at least Jose is using a 0W-50 that will flow better than a 15W or 20W50 on engine start. But from what I've seen using controlled test criteria and engineering data...a multi-grade 50W oil is not optimum oil film thickness on engine bearings. Of course that depends on bearing clearances as well. Not to mention a 30W multi-grade will give better fuel economy.
Oil is kinda like wine...use what your experience tells you. I used a 50W in the past myself. After reading up on it and understanding how oil is supplied to the bearings, valves and cylinders, I came to the conclusion the 50W oil I was using was not the best for my motor due to it's flow characteristics.
Edit: Oil flow through the bearings is very important and not just for high rev'ing engines. You want the oil to replenish as quickly as possible to prevent oil degradation due to the heat produced from friction. There's also an added benefit in the 7M, 1J, and 2J of the oil removing engine heat and taking it to the oil cooler (or any other motor that has a cooler). The lighter weight oil flows much better than a 50W and actually produces a film thickness superior to the heavier oil. This is most evident on engine start when the oil is below the 100 deg C operating temp spec. The reason you get higher oil pressure from the heavier weight oils is the resistance to flow through the bearings...in this case, the higher pressure is not necessarily good.
Oil is kinda like wine...use what your experience tells you. I used a 50W in the past myself. After reading up on it and understanding how oil is supplied to the bearings, valves and cylinders, I came to the conclusion the 50W oil I was using was not the best for my motor due to it's flow characteristics.
Edit: Oil flow through the bearings is very important and not just for high rev'ing engines. You want the oil to replenish as quickly as possible to prevent oil degradation due to the heat produced from friction. There's also an added benefit in the 7M, 1J, and 2J of the oil removing engine heat and taking it to the oil cooler (or any other motor that has a cooler). The lighter weight oil flows much better than a 50W and actually produces a film thickness superior to the heavier oil. This is most evident on engine start when the oil is below the 100 deg C operating temp spec. The reason you get higher oil pressure from the heavier weight oils is the resistance to flow through the bearings...in this case, the higher pressure is not necessarily good.
