What did you do to your supra today? Pics
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_yearGrandavi;1968215 said:
Wikipedia seems to say that it's October, but I know that the lots have had 2014 model year cars on the lot for over 6 weeks now, so that's as early as August. The summer is when the "xxxx model year blowouts" (Or Toyota's Red Tag Days) happen and by the end of summer, you can buy the next year's model, or "get a great deal on remaining xxxx inventory" -- you KNOW you've heard the commercials, and those sales are all over now, and it's almost exclusively 2014 model year cars on the lots now.
Dan_Gyoba;1968263 said:
Yeah, it seems like it is always earlier too as they try to beat each other to the next model year.
Drift Lotion order in. ARP rod bolts, CPS cover and seal, expensive freaking banjo bolts, and more...
Haha, Aaron doesn't deserve that! Anyways, my new old subframe came in. It has reinforced bars that tie the front and rear structures where the diff mounts together. Mine flexed diagonally and one corner of the diff went up (decapitated bolt) and ripped the opposite corner's mount downward, seperating it while still bolted. F,M,L...at least I know it makes decent torque!
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Tried to drive to home depot to get some supplies for work and she stumbled on firing up then was just cranking and didn't turn over. 24 and 34 error codes came up, AFM and turbo pressure. I do have a lexus AFM but it has new electronics and I cleaned it last week or so when I installed it but my blitz boost controller doesn't control the boost so that may be the problem but would that prevent the car from starting?
Step 1. Remove AFM from intake pipe and air cleaner assembly.Grandavi;1968370 said:
Step 2. Spray inside of AFM liberally with carburator cleaner, until the inside is free of dirt and oil.
Step 3. Re-install AFM in car. Start car, wait for CEL to light.
Step 4. Pull codes, realise that you have an AFM code.
Step 5. Post results on SM. Wait for people to respond with something similar to "You did WHAT?!"
Step 6. Look in the Mk3 for-sale section for someone selling an AFM. Buy it. (Alternately check eBay or even the dealer.)
Step 7. Install replacement AFM, or at least electronics for same.
I got an electronics cleaner specifically for MAFs/AFMs I just spray inside liberally and leave it standing to drain off while I changed my injectors. The member I bought it from told me the electronics are new and only had like 5 laps around a track and a few hundred miles or something like that. If it was the MAF then wouldn't the car still start up but run like crap? Because I've had a problem like that and it still started up but ran rough until I cleaned the connectors and sensor.Grandavi;1968370 said:
Doat;1968378 said:
I'm pretty sure you aren't supposed to use any sort of cleaner on this type of AFM. I believe it damages them.
No idea if that's what is causing your problem.. just a red flag when I read "I cleaned my AFM". Usually from what I have read, it just causes poor idle. My worry is that you have done a lot of upgrades so its going to be harder to backtrack the system to find the issue. I cant help you because I don't have enough "smarts" for trouble shooting this. Just reflex reaction to post about the AFM..
I totally get the AFM but wouldn't it go wonky on me when I cleaned it instead of randomly acting up now? Also it won't prevent the car from starting right?
Well the car started right up tonight I figured it was also too hot because I've had problems like this when it's a hot day and I've been driving a lot but it did stall a few times at first then I think the ECU adjusted, I removed the negative battery terminal, and now it seems fine.
If you cleaned your AFM with generic MAF cleaner and it is still working consider yourself extremely lucky. Only a freon based cleaner will not damage it, but that cleaner is no longer available.
Well I removed my boost controller and put in my manual one at stock settings then as I was hunched over the car I was staring at the blow off valve and remembered that if you can blow through it then it's dead unless I am mistaken. I pulled it off and blew through and felt it come out of the other side, so it seems it's time to get the Bosch upgrade. The car ran fine but at about 3k rpm at full boost it felt like it lost power like it didn't have anything more to give you feel it pull until you hit 3k rpm then it feels like it quickly but gradually run out of puffs. I assume this is due to the blow off valve not holding pressure?