valve stem fell...keeper question
- Thread starter cinciguy89turbo
- Start date
OP: For removing and replacing the springs, here's some tools to make the job much easier.
Valve tool with head on
valve tool head off
Not really a job I would recommend for someone inexperienced and without supervision. You really should seek professional help. They have the right tools to get the job done.
Any time we have a vehicle in the shop for valve seals, we pull the head(s), lap all the valves, and replace all the seals. As IJ said, it needs to be done anyway. If you're very careful, its possible you can get the head off without warping it, which would save you around $50 for milling. Valve job is gonna run around $200, and the Felpro hg kit is about the same.
Valve tool with head on
valve tool head off
Not really a job I would recommend for someone inexperienced and without supervision. You really should seek professional help. They have the right tools to get the job done.
Any time we have a vehicle in the shop for valve seals, we pull the head(s), lap all the valves, and replace all the seals. As IJ said, it needs to be done anyway. If you're very careful, its possible you can get the head off without warping it, which would save you around $50 for milling. Valve job is gonna run around $200, and the Felpro hg kit is about the same.
OK! Finally got my pics on the puter. First off, the tools we used. What you see in the picture, was all we needed to actually return the lost valve to it's rightful home. Second, we successfully inserted the wire, and got hold of the valve for gluing. Third, wire glued to the stem. It was right after this, that we discovered the flexibility issue with the thick cable.
There's not enough room inside the cylinder to get the valve and that stiff cable under the combustion chamber. We then came upon the idea, of shaving the jacket off all but the very end of the cable. This would leave the part attached to the valve, wide enough to help center the valve in the guide to aid in reinsertion.
The last few pics, show the modified usb cable, and the success we achieved using it. The only thing we didn't get a picture of was the gluing process, where we had to use the pliers to hold the valve firmly to allow the pressure necessary for superglue to set properly.
As I said before, I believe that if the tools are all prepared in advance, it would realistically take about five minutes to actually get the valve back into the guide, and a couple more to secure the valve from falling.
There's not enough room inside the cylinder to get the valve and that stiff cable under the combustion chamber. We then came upon the idea, of shaving the jacket off all but the very end of the cable. This would leave the part attached to the valve, wide enough to help center the valve in the guide to aid in reinsertion.
The last few pics, show the modified usb cable, and the success we achieved using it. The only thing we didn't get a picture of was the gluing process, where we had to use the pliers to hold the valve firmly to allow the pressure necessary for superglue to set properly.
As I said before, I believe that if the tools are all prepared in advance, it would realistically take about five minutes to actually get the valve back into the guide, and a couple more to secure the valve from falling.
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Wow, I just stumbled on this for shits and grins, and over the course of 2hrs at work slowly worked my way through this. When the initial Idea was promoted I had to tell some other car guys about this "rediculous Idea" to get the valve out, and for the next 2 hrs my buds k ept asking if it worked out. And i'm VERY happy w/ how the story turned out. VERY innovative, and an outstanding job. I agree w/ both parties on the matter. the OP was ONLY doing valve stems, so this DID get him back on track to where he needed to be. if thats ALL he WANTS done then this is a fine meathod. HOwever on the other spectrum if your valve seals are gone, chances are other things need to be done as well. But if thats the case. just do a TOTAL rebuild. why stop at just freshening up the head, yeah? but for most this is just something to keep it drivable. in almost every supras life a rebuild is immenent.
again, hats off to the the project and PLEASE.. PLEASE post a DIY on this trick, so it doesn't get lost in here and so others can easily find it.
again, hats off to the the project and PLEASE.. PLEASE post a DIY on this trick, so it doesn't get lost in here and so others can easily find it.
Ok...I'm going to start taking this head off...I'm nervous as shit...not asking for a writeup or anything but does anybody have any random advice that they've figured out while pulling their heads....ie heating up manifold bolts...etc.
yeah. don't bother taking off the intake manifold, it can come out w/ the head as well as give yous omething to hold onto. watch the back of the head the clearance by the firewall is small.
when INSTALLING. take to old head bolts, cut the heads off. and cut a notch into the top and thread them into the block BEFORE putting the head on. now you have 2 guides for installing the head. (just becareful not to scratch the head surface when putting the head on) when you've got the head placed, put 2 bolts in and hand tighten them down then remove the "guides".
label vacuum lines, and fuel injector clips, as you remove nuts/bolts put then in a group then baggy them, and lable the baggy. this way its easy to remember where everything goes.
those are just some tips i've learned while doing multiple headjobs.
when INSTALLING. take to old head bolts, cut the heads off. and cut a notch into the top and thread them into the block BEFORE putting the head on. now you have 2 guides for installing the head. (just becareful not to scratch the head surface when putting the head on) when you've got the head placed, put 2 bolts in and hand tighten them down then remove the "guides".
label vacuum lines, and fuel injector clips, as you remove nuts/bolts put then in a group then baggy them, and lable the baggy. this way its easy to remember where everything goes.
those are just some tips i've learned while doing multiple headjobs.
just read a thread on retorquing....if I use the same ARP headstuds that are in my car now will I still have to retorque them if they've already "stretched?"
I finished the DIY Writeup yesterday afternoon, I posted in the articles section. When i submitted it, it said that a moderator woud review it then it would show up. I havent seen it show up or find any evidence that ever created it in my user CP. How long does this usually take?
Paul... sorry, but...
Yeah, those are ARPs, they had been retorqued on the head already, so I would think they are stretched about as far as they're gonna be. When I got your text I thought you BHG'd or something.
Advice/tricks:
Since you're installing the head in the car w/ the ARP studs, isn't there a trick to getting the head on the block? I think the back 4 studs need to stay out and be started w/ the head on or something.
Replace the 90' elbow on the back of the head.
Have fun scraping the block... flush the oil w/ cheap stuff a few times...
If any ?'s pop up, LMK, I'll help out how I can.
made me lolcinciguy89turbo;1376384 said:
Yeah, those are ARPs, they had been retorqued on the head already, so I would think they are stretched about as far as they're gonna be. When I got your text I thought you BHG'd or something.
Advice/tricks:
Since you're installing the head in the car w/ the ARP studs, isn't there a trick to getting the head on the block? I think the back 4 studs need to stay out and be started w/ the head on or something.
Replace the 90' elbow on the back of the head.
Have fun scraping the block... flush the oil w/ cheap stuff a few times...
If any ?'s pop up, LMK, I'll help out how I can.
^^^Matt looking back at this whole thing makes me LOL. Allllll the way back to the day I bought the first one. I've doubled what I paid for the original better car
Update: debating between a 6 mo rebuild (pistons, rings, valve job upraded turbo not sure which trim, MHG...and again I say MHG, r-154) since it won't be driven during the winter anyhow. Not looking for much power 280-320 more for reliability with a punch
Not sure what brands of things I want to go with I'll have to do some research.
-or-
just doing the head for right now...
Update: debating between a 6 mo rebuild (pistons, rings, valve job upraded turbo not sure which trim, MHG...and again I say MHG, r-154) since it won't be driven during the winter anyhow. Not looking for much power 280-320 more for reliability with a punch
Not sure what brands of things I want to go with I'll have to do some research.-or-
just doing the head for right now...
OK! Finally got the head off! All by myself, most extensive thing I've done on a car so far. The guys I work with took a look at it and said the head looks brand new. OK...here's the thing from all the pictures I've seen of heads, they don't really look "old" they are aluminum, and it doesn't get that dirty where its at.
My problem is the valves on the bottom look, and feel like shit. I'll have to post pics I guess because one of them is completely white. The others feel really rough. I'm glad I took the head off it's going to the machine shop tomorrow. Any suggestions other than a valve job?
There's no way the previous owner (since I've only had this car a couple months) changed the head gasket which I know has been done because it has ARP studs, and let these valves go. What's going on? I've heard I'm getting too much fuel (which I just got my coolant temp sensor fixed so that's possible, if I'm correct that makes it run rich) and I've heard that it's burning coolant. I want to fix any other problems before it get's put back together.
The last thing is before I put this motor back together is that some people say rings cause the initial puff of smoke on start up. Typically these cars have bad turbo rings, or valve stems. Just the thought of rings gives me the creeps.
^^Sorry so much info. This is my first teardown, and I don't really trust people outside SM.
My problem is the valves on the bottom look, and feel like shit. I'll have to post pics I guess because one of them is completely white. The others feel really rough. I'm glad I took the head off it's going to the machine shop tomorrow. Any suggestions other than a valve job?
There's no way the previous owner (since I've only had this car a couple months) changed the head gasket which I know has been done because it has ARP studs, and let these valves go. What's going on? I've heard I'm getting too much fuel (which I just got my coolant temp sensor fixed so that's possible, if I'm correct that makes it run rich) and I've heard that it's burning coolant. I want to fix any other problems before it get's put back together.
The last thing is before I put this motor back together is that some people say rings cause the initial puff of smoke on start up. Typically these cars have bad turbo rings, or valve stems. Just the thought of rings gives me the creeps.
^^Sorry so much info. This is my first teardown, and I don't really trust people outside SM.
gaboonviper85;1434439 said:
They are also relatively easy to change, however you may want to consider a valve job.