Throwing on a Driftmotion CT2657trim - Headgasket First??

[755hp]

So if you run the straight edge and it is slightly warped...are you gonna pull the motor and have it decked? Or are you just going to straight edge it for peace of mind...

Sigh....yea man, I don't know. If its badly warped, the only sensible thing to do would be to pull the block....sigh....pretty much engine rebuild, right?? Can't deck a block w/ internals, can you?? At the same time, I don't wanna take a straight edge to it cause I fear this exact scenario will play out....damn, I only wanna take a straight edge to the block knowing its not warped so I can feel good about my engine being healthy....but then that would defeat the purpose if I knew that before hand. Lol

Okay....should I check with a straight edge or not?? What to do?? Keep in mind, the shit costs damn near the price of decking the head and it's only going be used maybe twice (counting this HG job and an engine rebuild down the road when my pocket is civilized enough to do so).

 

[DeMoN2318]

I wouldn't...waste of money IMO

 

[755hp]

I wouldn't...waste of money IMO

Alright....but leave me with this....it IS HARD to warp these iron blocks, right (even though I drove home w/ minimal to no coolant for 2-3miles - blew a hose)??

 

[DeMoN2318]

Alright....but leave me with this....it IS HARD to warp these iron blocks, right (even though I drove home w/ minimal to no coolant for 2-3miles - blew a hose)??

It would take a lot of heat, sustained heat, to warp and anneal an iron block...

 

[755hp]

It would take a lot of heat, sustained heat, to warp and anneal an iron block...

Alright....I'll get off the straight edge thought right now. Thanks

Moving on to other topics related though....I don't have access to air tools so what could I use to "blow/clean" out the bolt holes in place of it if possible??

 

[DeMoN2318]

You need to get a specific tap, its called a bottom tap I think, DM might sell them. About 1000 long qtips, brake cleaner, and a can of compressed air

 

[755hp]

You need to get a specific tap, its called a bottom tap I think, DM might sell them. About 1000 long qtips, brake cleaner, and a can of compressed air

Lol, I was about to suggest/ask about air cans but thought I might get blasted for that but it IS an option. Thanks man, appreciate it; I'll look into these bottom taps.

 

[IndigoMKII]

Just so you know the difference.

 

[SideWinderGX]

Posting here with relevant info as per your questions:

I originally used a generic spring compressor like this one (http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-23300-Engine-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000P0VTG4), but with a 3/4" or 1" piece of PVC between the keepers and the compressor...the PVC has a hole in it so you can fidget the keepers onto the valve. The whole thing looked like this, except with a ratchet compressor instead of a c-clamp: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_images/valve_spring_compressor_homemade.jpg

That is a gigantic pain in the ass. I will not do it again this way lol. Buy this: http://www.toyotool.com/ That allows you to install the valve seals as well as the keepers without any fidgeting around. 24 valves with the compressor took me over an hour, I'll buy the tool for next time.

The valve seals themselves you can install with the end of a 10mm deep well socket. Use motor oil when installing them, and they'll click/pop/snap into place. You could use the toyotool as well, it doesn't matter as long as they are properly seated.

 

[755hp]

Posting here with relevant info as per your questions:

I originally used a generic spring compressor like this one (http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-23300-Engine-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000P0VTG4), but with a 3/4" or 1" piece of PVC between the keepers and the compressor...the PVC has a hole in it so you can fidget the keepers onto the valve. The whole thing looked like this, except with a ratchet compressor instead of a c-clamp: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_images/valve_spring_compressor_homemade.jpg

That is a gigantic pain in the ass. I will not do it again this way lol. Buy this: http://www.toyotool.com/ That allows you to install the valve seals as well as the keepers without any fidgeting around. 24 valves with the compressor took me over an hour, I'll buy the tool for next time.

The valve seals themselves you can install with the end of a 10mm deep well socket. Use motor oil when installing them, and they'll click/pop/snap into place. You could use the toyotool as well, it doesn't matter as long as they are properly seated.

Thanks buddy, appreciate it. However, I was watching a video from Poor Man Mods on YouTube where they were changing valve seals on a 1jz engine. In that video they displayed two tools; one for removing/installing keepers and one for removing/installing the valve seals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pj1fRNpWNMs

Removing/Installation Keepers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valve-Stem-...hash=item461a712014&item=301091332116&vxp=mtr

Removal/Installation Valve Seals: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-Tools...hash=item567387db54&item=371305470804&vxp=mtr

I placed an order for both tools; should be here next week. As for the head, I've got a few more things to pull; exhaust manifold, intake runners, cams (want to check valve lash/clearance first) and the head itself. Then it will be sent off to the machine shop this weekend.

 

[755hp]

View attachment 75879Just so you know the difference.

Yea, thanks man. I called Aaron from Driftmotion yesterday (Tuesday) and asked him to throw in the 12mm x 1.25 bottom tap for $8 along with my timing belt and tensioner I ordered. Should be here in a few days.

So the plan is: bottom tap, brake cleaner and compressed air cans to clean out bolt holes.

 

[din904]

You should be using a thread chaser not a tap

 

[755hp]

You should be using a thread chaser not a tap

Here's what I got. Straight from Driftmotion; should do the job just fine too, right??
https://www.driftmotion.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DM102

 

[din904]

Here's what I got. Straight from Driftmotion; should do the job just fine too, right??
https://www.driftmotion.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DM102

A tap will slightly enlarge the hole even using the exact size tap Google thread chaser I got mine from snap on. Some guys will say a tap is fine but do a test yourself before and after a tap you will feel the stud has more play when threaded in.

 

[black89t]

i tried to tell you the bolts were easier

 

[din904]

i tried to tell you the bolts were easier

Actually it's the opposite with head bolts you can have a false torque reading from having crap in threads of the block with studs you can just clean the hole with compressed air and verify your studs are going in all the way and you'll be fine people have a tendency to make things a bigger deal than they really are. Also set your head on before installing studs and don't forget to install washers first then studs. Lifting the head and reinstalling it is much easier if you have access to an engine hoist.

 

[755hp]

And there you have it, classic 7MGTE, classic case, BLOWN HEADGASKET!! One would simply not believe the SAVAGERY that was unfolded here today (look at photos, look at the savagery). Had I thrown my 57trim turbo on without doing this HG job, my shit wouldn't have lasted one damn pull at 15psi.

NASTY!....straight nasty BHG up thee ass. Sigh....ahh man, this life of a 7M....this life...Lol

 

[755hp]

Stock bolts as well....ptsss.



7M head in the box my Megan EZ Street coilovers came in. Decided to measure the valve lash while it was in that box and found most of the intake valve shims to be out of spec.

 

[755hp]

Also, can anyone circle/mark/point out (on paint software or something) where all the oil holes are located on the block; I wanna make sure not allow dirt/crap to fall in. Using my own judgement, I found and thought the three larger holes would be the oil holes and a smaller hole in front of the #1 cylinder (next to dowel pin).

Just to be sure, can anyone point out all the oil holes??

 

[black89t]

Actually it's the opposite with head bolts you can have a false torque reading from having crap in threads of the block with studs you can just clean the hole with compressed air and verify your studs are going in all the way and you'll be fine people have a tendency to make things a bigger deal than they really are. Also set your head on before installing studs and don't forget to install washers first then studs. Lifting the head and reinstalling it is much easier if you have access to an engine hoist.

ive installed arp head studs and bolts quite a few time and YES the bolts are easier. you obviously haven't or you'd know that the studs will never thread in all the way without running a tap or preferably a chase and even then its hard to get the very bottom threads clean cause they haven't had thread engagement EVER so they're tons of crud in them. you don't need to chase the thread for bolts they'll thread in perfectly fine with zero force cause that section of the threads have been protected by the stock bolt. where as if you tried that with the studs they'ed all be at different heights cause they wont all thread in completely if any. you'll know when they're all clean when they thread down to the bottom just like the first half. when you think you have them cleaned enough put all the studs in and make sure they're all down the same height. and don't use a ratchet on the allen part use a screwdriver with allen. you don't want to ream them down.

and im pretty sure that one hole between the front two head bolt holes is the feed for oil to the head. the rest are drains. i know it flows from the front the cams to the back. hopefully somebody else can verify.