Throwing on a Driftmotion CT2657trim - Headgasket First??
- Thread starter 755hp
- Start date
Alright, so after reading din094's post, I went at the block again but this time with the razor blade scrapping into/in the direction I'm scrapping. Well, surprise, surprise, there was much more gasket material left in certain areas. I've really gotta thank din904 for this cause I would have thrown the head on without being able to get that much better of a finish on the block's surface. Here's the FINAL surface finish/condition of the block:
Last edited:
And so, Sunday afternoon began the reassembly. I've heard from some people that installing the ARP studs FIRST then the head afterwards is the correct way to do this (however, the back two studs are damn hard to get in thus, I threaded those through). I got an engine lift after all so it was much easier; this way I didn't have to thread most of the studs through. Here's the ARP studs installed:
Okay, so here's the part no one will tell you about installing the nuts onto the ARP studs once the head is on the block: You need a 12point, 14mm deep socket with THIN WALLS to clear the valve lifters/valve area otherwise, it will NOT fit....sigh. I had to go to my school's engineering/machine shop, place the socket on a turning lathe and mill down 0.0040 off the socket walls. Anyway, I came back Monday evening, gave it a try and the socket fit with no issues. Here's the "machined" socket:
Once that was figured out, the head was placed on the block and torqued to 90ftlb in three equal passes 30, 60 and finally, 90ftlbs of torque. Here's the head on the block torqued down:
By the way, I sprayed my OEM HG both sides with the copper gasket spray as suggested by SidewinderGX.
Okay, so here's the part no one will tell you about installing the nuts onto the ARP studs once the head is on the block: You need a 12point, 14mm deep socket with THIN WALLS to clear the valve lifters/valve area otherwise, it will NOT fit....sigh. I had to go to my school's engineering/machine shop, place the socket on a turning lathe and mill down 0.0040 off the socket walls. Anyway, I came back Monday evening, gave it a try and the socket fit with no issues. Here's the "machined" socket:
Once that was figured out, the head was placed on the block and torqued to 90ftlb in three equal passes 30, 60 and finally, 90ftlbs of torque. Here's the head on the block torqued down:
By the way, I sprayed my OEM HG both sides with the copper gasket spray as suggested by SidewinderGX.
Last edited:
Next I began work on the fuel side installing the AFPR kit. This is another one that kept me up until 5am Tuesday (today) morning. But from some other threads/guides online this is how I linked mine up. Basically, the return line from the J-tube was taken off and place (w/ braid stainless steel line) to bottom of the regulator. Next where the stock fuel regulator used to be (in front part of fuel rail), I installed the other braided stainless steel line and linked it to the side of the regulator. The back of the fuel rail still has the stock damper and line linked as usual.
My question is simple: Is that correct??
Also, I installed some (RX-7 I believe...) 550cc injectors I got from SidewinderGX over the summer onto the fuel rail and into the head; of course, a Lex AFM will be coupled with the 550s.
My question is simple: Is that correct??
Also, I installed some (RX-7 I believe...) 550cc injectors I got from SidewinderGX over the summer onto the fuel rail and into the head; of course, a Lex AFM will be coupled with the 550s.
Last edited:
vCo2v;2046877 said:
Yea, I have a Walbro 255 I'm going to install. Thing is, my Supra is sitting up on jack stands (front) and the back is a few inches away from the garage wall. Its hard to get to right now; I'll do that once I'm done with everything else and can move the car forward.
Nice, make sure to get a socket that fits the ARP nuts if you're using studs....otherwise, it will piss you off and delay any progress. Trust me, Lol. Thanks and good luck.
Nice progress man. Make sure you flush the oil and change it at least 2-3 times after you're done.
Thanks man, appreciate it.akito;2046894 said:
Could I throw in conventional oil (cheapo oil) to flush it?? Otherwise, I'm just wasting money/good oil, like this Castrol Synthetic 5W-40 I was about to throw in.
Yea man, use the cheapest oil to flush all that coolant from the bottom end out. No need to waste money on the expensive stuff to flush.
You can use straight 30 weight (because its cheap, and less additives therefore more actual oil) to flush the engine out the first two or three times. Then switch to whatever you're going to use after that.
nice looks like you did a good job there! don't forget to retoque the head studs after like 500 miles then maybe once a year after that for safe measures and since its so easy to do on a 7m. the 2jz you have to pull the cams.........see look something thats easier on the 7m wow lol
And yet again....a BEAST has risen upon the land....people, ladies, gentlemen, my Supra is back online and running damn better than ever before!! I assure you....a savage has risen here today and when it is all said and done...."the people" will know my name....for it be, the true one....S-U-P-R-A.
Alright, so basically, I came home from work around 2pm Wednesday and got working on my Supra around 3pm. I went STRAIGHT through the night (no break, no sleep, no food) all the way till Thursday 5pm when I finally started it up; I drank water twice and took a leak once, that's it....other than that, I went STRAIGHT through, no breaks. I pulled the EFI fuse, cranked it for 10-15 seconds to build up oil and fuel pressure then started it up. However, I have a few kinks to work out; was leaking fuel from the seating area for the injectors inside the head, crazy vacuum leak (afr reading are off the chart lean) and was idling very high (however, that was just my throttle cable needing adjustments). So far, all thats left to do is find this vacuum leak which is pretty bad cause I can't even build boost above 4psi; simply won't hold. Another guy in the SAE club on my school campus just picked up a 87' Supra Turbo 7mgte w/ the Lex/550 mod and he said he was running lean at idle and WOT too; he said it was because of the "un-metered" air that passes through lexus Afm housing that cause our 7Ms to run lean sometimes. Its a lower/smaller section thats slightly bigger than the stock 7M's afm. So since we're engineering students and have access to a machine shop, he drilled (lathe)/machined up a screw fitment insert that blocks off that un-metered air section and now he's not running lean anymore. Anyway, my issue is a vacuum leak for sure and just can't seem to find it. I'm not sure if I'll let him mod my lexus afm like that just yet. First, I'm going to replace the hard/slightly cracked vacuum valve cover hoses and see if that makes any difference before doing that mod my lexus afm.
Alright, so I've installed a DM CT2657trim turbo, DM intercooler kit that comes with the HKS ssqv (replica/fake), Lex/550s, AFPR, Gates timing belt along with new tensioner and an MTX oil pressure gauge (that I haven't wired up yet cause I know NOTHING about wiring life). I'll be doing the 255lph Walbro either today or....who knows. I have final exams coming up and need to start studying. Anyway, here's a few pics:
Out with the old (blown turbo)
In with the new, savage'd one (57trim ct26 turbo)
I have only water in the radiator and block right now; wanted to do a coolant flush yesterday (Thusday) when I started it up but was too tired to do it (pretty much feeling numb after being awake and working on the car for 40+hrs and 24+hrs, respectively; and I only got 2hrs of sleep going into Wedneday morning)....I was like a man possessed working in my garage all those hours straight. I'm flushing the coolant today though.
Also, I threw in some synthetic cheapo 5w-30 oil from a dollar store around the corner. I'm thinking to change the oil today; should I throw in one more round of cheapo oil or is it too early?? Or can I throw in my "real/good" synthetic Castrol 5w-40 and K&N oil filter now?? I don't want to leave this cheap oil in the engine for too long though...
Don't worry, the HKS ssqv is now installed. I just didn't have a snap/c-ring pliers to install it until I got to the SAE club's garage and used a locking snap/c-ring pliers to install the BOV. I'll take some more pics later today.
Alright, so basically, I came home from work around 2pm Wednesday and got working on my Supra around 3pm. I went STRAIGHT through the night (no break, no sleep, no food) all the way till Thursday 5pm when I finally started it up; I drank water twice and took a leak once, that's it....other than that, I went STRAIGHT through, no breaks. I pulled the EFI fuse, cranked it for 10-15 seconds to build up oil and fuel pressure then started it up. However, I have a few kinks to work out; was leaking fuel from the seating area for the injectors inside the head, crazy vacuum leak (afr reading are off the chart lean) and was idling very high (however, that was just my throttle cable needing adjustments). So far, all thats left to do is find this vacuum leak which is pretty bad cause I can't even build boost above 4psi; simply won't hold. Another guy in the SAE club on my school campus just picked up a 87' Supra Turbo 7mgte w/ the Lex/550 mod and he said he was running lean at idle and WOT too; he said it was because of the "un-metered" air that passes through lexus Afm housing that cause our 7Ms to run lean sometimes. Its a lower/smaller section thats slightly bigger than the stock 7M's afm. So since we're engineering students and have access to a machine shop, he drilled (lathe)/machined up a screw fitment insert that blocks off that un-metered air section and now he's not running lean anymore. Anyway, my issue is a vacuum leak for sure and just can't seem to find it. I'm not sure if I'll let him mod my lexus afm like that just yet. First, I'm going to replace the hard/slightly cracked vacuum valve cover hoses and see if that makes any difference before doing that mod my lexus afm.
Alright, so I've installed a DM CT2657trim turbo, DM intercooler kit that comes with the HKS ssqv (replica/fake), Lex/550s, AFPR, Gates timing belt along with new tensioner and an MTX oil pressure gauge (that I haven't wired up yet cause I know NOTHING about wiring life). I'll be doing the 255lph Walbro either today or....who knows. I have final exams coming up and need to start studying. Anyway, here's a few pics:
Out with the old (blown turbo) In with the new, savage'd one (57trim ct26 turbo)I have only water in the radiator and block right now; wanted to do a coolant flush yesterday (Thusday) when I started it up but was too tired to do it (pretty much feeling numb after being awake and working on the car for 40+hrs and 24+hrs, respectively; and I only got 2hrs of sleep going into Wedneday morning)....I was like a man possessed working in my garage all those hours straight. I'm flushing the coolant today though.
Also, I threw in some synthetic cheapo 5w-30 oil from a dollar store around the corner. I'm thinking to change the oil today; should I throw in one more round of cheapo oil or is it too early?? Or can I throw in my "real/good" synthetic Castrol 5w-40 and K&N oil filter now?? I don't want to leave this cheap oil in the engine for too long though...
Don't worry, the HKS ssqv is now installed. I just didn't have a snap/c-ring pliers to install it until I got to the SAE club's garage and used a locking snap/c-ring pliers to install the BOV. I'll take some more pics later today.
Attachments
Last edited:
I'd run it for a few mins then drain, then 300-500 miles on the next then drain. Then you should be okay with what ever you want to run from then.
Cheap oil is fine and you'd be happy you did that to prevent coolant mixed with oil in your oil pan and bottom end. This is my preferred method but do your own research
Cheap oil is fine and you'd be happy you did that to prevent coolant mixed with oil in your oil pan and bottom end. This is my preferred method but do your own research
Dammit....I already drove for a 100+ miles last weekend on the first oil change. I'll change it the next time I get back in my Supra. Right now its leaking fuel from the injector o-rings (not driving it till fixed). Basically, these injectors are from an RX7 (550cc) and the seal that seats into the cylinder head was a bit loose. So I put two o-rings on first as spacers (to help push the seal into the cylinder head) then the seal. However, I think I put one too many o-rings and its pushing/forcing the top o-ring (fuel rail) to not seal properly.akito;2047798 said:I'd run it for a few mins then drain, then 300-500 miles on the next then drain. Then you should be okay with what ever you want to run from then.
Cheap oil is fine and you'd be happy you did that to prevent coolant mixed with oil in your oil pan and bottom end. This is my preferred method but do your own research
Either way, I have final exams coming up this week so I don't have time to deal with it. After exams are done, I'll change the oil and deal with the leaking injector o-rings on Friday. Hoping to get it up and running by Saturday.
Also, I need to put in my 255lph Walbro fuel pump.
And I have a vacuum leak somewhere thats pissing me off....I can't even go WOT; AFRs are around 14+/- 1. I haven't even felt full boost/power in my Supra yet....all I can do is spool up real quick and left off. That's what I did the whole day Saturday last weekend....but I can't find this vacuum leak to save my left nut. I'm thinking its coming before the turbo because if it was after the compressor, it would turn into a "boost" leak and I should run rich. But I'm running lean instead. I don't know if its the Lexus afm or what....but I do know that throwing in the Lex/550s should produce a rich running tune (untuned).
Check all the pipes going to the turbo, you might have a small leak after the AFM but before the turbo.
What's going on guys. Alright, final exams are over and so far I got my fuel filter installed, fixed the fuel leak from the injectors and....I'M STILL RUNNING LEAN!! Tomorrow, I'm going to install my 255lph fuel pump. My fuel filter was clogged badly (as said by the mechanic) however, it didn't help the afrs but as least its a maintenance item that got done. Also, I swapped out my Lexus Afm for the stock afm and though the afrs dropped to 15.5 to 17 it still ran lean and I was hitting fuel cut even with the boost turned down to 10psi. I can hear a miss fire at idle so I'm guessing it might be the injectors or the fuel pump at this point. Sigh....anyway, I'm going to install the fuel pump tomorrow; if I'm STILL running lean, then I know its got to be the injectors....and I'll be in the market for RC Engineering 550cc injectors real soon.
Question: Does anyone know about the 12volt fuel mod?? I was talking to a dude on my school campus who has an 87' Turbo with "properly" done Lex/550 (stock fuel pump though) and he said the 12volt fuel mod allows the pump to run 12volts across any Rpm range not just above 3000rpms. I'm guessing, even with the 255lph Walbro installed, I should do this mod??
Question: Does anyone know about the 12volt fuel mod?? I was talking to a dude on my school campus who has an 87' Turbo with "properly" done Lex/550 (stock fuel pump though) and he said the 12volt fuel mod allows the pump to run 12volts across any Rpm range not just above 3000rpms. I'm guessing, even with the 255lph Walbro installed, I should do this mod??