HMNGSupraMKIII;2027972 said:
I used one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH64300-Toyota-Harmonic-Holding/dp/B0051XDBBG
The Small Questions Thread
- Thread starter RPSil13
- Start date
I used one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH64300-Toyota-Harmonic-Holding/dp/B0051XDBBG
That part allows the pulley to be held by a second breaker bar. It has the extra benefit of allowing you to actually torque the nut to the correct value on reassembly.
Odd sort of question, but I wasn't paying enough attention when changing the pads on one of my rides and somehow managed to put the pad with the wear indicator on the outside of the rotor rather than the inside as it should be. As a result the pedal was very, very soft and even with it near the floor the car didn't want to come to a complete stop. So I checked the job, pulled the calipers and put the pads back in correctly, and the pedal magically returned to normal.
My question is why would this reversal of the pads make the pedal so soft? Air in the lines I would understand; leaking master cylinder I would understand; but the pads being reversed (inside to outside) I'm not sure I have a grasp on. Any brake Jedi's have a simple explanation? Thanks.
My question is why would this reversal of the pads make the pedal so soft? Air in the lines I would understand; leaking master cylinder I would understand; but the pads being reversed (inside to outside) I'm not sure I have a grasp on. Any brake Jedi's have a simple explanation? Thanks.
Because the caliper was squeezing something other than just the pad against the rotor. It had to compress that then it could apply pressure to the pad and rotors.
*Please help!!
I have 88 7mgte auto trans needs engine only I Plan on ordering a 7mgte from Japan running it stock until warranty goes out an installing my mega squirt ecu I have a 0.55 trim aireasearch turbo with 36 inch by 12 inch front mount intercooler and the 2007ish pink greddy bov plan on going for 450-525 engine hp. I plan installing the 2 mm metal headgasket and arp head studs to the correct specs and 3inch full exhaust.after warranty and moving turbo oil return line to the oil pan bcuz I've heard it also slows oil down goin through the filter first instead of straight into the pan and it's an easy fix is this true? Not sure what injectors to use to accurately get the right fuel with my set up anyone know?? I've heard your wasting your time doing internals if or only going for around 500hp is this true on low milage engine? And not sure the weak link of engine over 550hp?? And does Anyone know size/kind of waste gate I should run the mega squirt says it can control boost at different rpms and don't know what I need to be able to do that. Any suggestions would be appreciated any advice if I need something else let me know and if you know of a tech or 7mgte member that would know please send me their way thanks again!
I have 88 7mgte auto trans needs engine only I Plan on ordering a 7mgte from Japan running it stock until warranty goes out an installing my mega squirt ecu I have a 0.55 trim aireasearch turbo with 36 inch by 12 inch front mount intercooler and the 2007ish pink greddy bov plan on going for 450-525 engine hp. I plan installing the 2 mm metal headgasket and arp head studs to the correct specs and 3inch full exhaust.after warranty and moving turbo oil return line to the oil pan bcuz I've heard it also slows oil down goin through the filter first instead of straight into the pan and it's an easy fix is this true? Not sure what injectors to use to accurately get the right fuel with my set up anyone know?? I've heard your wasting your time doing internals if or only going for around 500hp is this true on low milage engine? And not sure the weak link of engine over 550hp?? And does Anyone know size/kind of waste gate I should run the mega squirt says it can control boost at different rpms and don't know what I need to be able to do that. Any suggestions would be appreciated any advice if I need something else let me know and if you know of a tech or 7mgte member that would know please send me their way thanks again!
For those power goals of 525 to the crank 750cc injectors should be fine. The weak link on a stock internaled 7m over 550 is going to be the tune for sure. The benefits of the forged pistons and rods is they are a little more forgiving in regards to a bad tune. What is this car going to be just a weekend car or something that is a reliable high hp car?
If you were to remove your caliper and press the pedal it would instantly go to the floor and the piston would pop out. It's sinple hydraulics.
Is there any way you can make the shifter not vibrate at all or is that just how it is? I have replaced the bushings and seat with marlin crawler parts in the past. The new bushings did improve tremendously but I just want to know if I can make the shift not shake at all.
I hope to be able to drive as often as possible so a good reliable car. I know there will always be someone faster but just want to pull on most street "quick" cars which it already did. What is fees able to be able to drive it as a daily driver treating her right but for sure boostin her up some on the weekends!
dmp316;2029443 said:
Oil is oil ... kinda. Your questions should include the fact that your in Cape Coral... that it gets hot (or not) and how you drive. If you are using the car as a DD, then any 10W30 will do you providing you change it. If its sitting for long periods I prefer Synthetic just because the additives leech out over time in "mineral" oil. If you drive at high rpm or lots of accelerating, then Synthetic again... its just a bit better than Mineral. For normal plain jane sane driving.. mineral is all you need. Millions of vehicles survive with it.
Now... "is it worth it for a 7M"? I have a built 7M... so I find the question offensive... lol.
Installing Cobra brakes. I am going to be installing Cobra brakes on my MK3 soon and just wanted to double check, I am going to buy the cobra brake lines and the caliper bracket set from Driftmotion. I was wondering if there is anything I should know when doing this install as far as I know it's fairly bolt on but for the centering rings that goes right around the hub right the area around the axle nut? Will that cause problems with my RPF1 wheels or is that something I just have to find out when I put the wheels on? Any other info I should know when installing this would be great I do have a friend who has this setup on his MK3 and he will be helping me as well just in case but he isn't available at all times, so I just want to get all of the info I need then tackle this. Thanks.