The Small Questions Thread
- Thread starter RPSil13
- Start date
The problem is like I said there aren't many options for me manifold wise with the 7M. I may end up just going the custom route with short runners, so it's like a log manifold.
Not really, ive seen them crack before but i havnt head anything about them cracking lately. My cheap china one been on almost 3 years daily driven and road trips. no issues. i have several buddies running cheap ones no issues
it would make sense that they fix that issue now days also DM's manifold is said to be made with thicker metal and should not have any clearance issues and I spoke with Aaron about this he said it should just bolt on basically but I do have their 7/16 exhaust stud kit, so I might have to widen the holes a bit which is no big deal.
Pretty much it's either a china manifold or spend a lot on a custom manifold lol. Would you rather go with DM's manifold over the others?
Hey Supramania,
Since i swapped rhd engine to lhd car, i dealed with this problem:
i know that i have to remove a cap circled in green but it just wont go off, there is no clamp that holds blocking cap (like in picture), looks like the cap is just pressed in, tryed to pull it our using pliers but still no luck, so what i did is just ran heater hose through other side ( yellow mark).
is there any posibility to remove that cap (circled in green) without using hacksaw?
View attachment 74331
Since i swapped rhd engine to lhd car, i dealed with this problem:
i know that i have to remove a cap circled in green but it just wont go off, there is no clamp that holds blocking cap (like in picture), looks like the cap is just pressed in, tryed to pull it our using pliers but still no luck, so what i did is just ran heater hose through other side ( yellow mark).
is there any posibility to remove that cap (circled in green) without using hacksaw?
View attachment 74331
Has anyone ever changed out all of their bushings for newer ones? If so, how did the car ride afterwards? Is it worth all the effort? I want to order new bushings for my car and have them replaced, but I'm not sure the rewards are going to be worth the effort. Thanks, Jay
Those black plastic things behind the windows.... One fell off. Does anybody make replacements, and what do the vents actually go to?
They extract air from the cabin. Held on by two nuts and some clips on the backside. You need to take out the inside trim plastics to replace, quite a bit of work.
guys quick question. Has anyone installed heat protect tubes over electrical components? Like this link below
http://www.firesleevetec.com/2014/fire-Sleeves_1010/83.html#
[url]http://www.bstbraidedsleeve.com/
[/URL]
http://www.firesleevetec.com/2014/fire-Sleeves_1010/83.html#
[url]http://www.bstbraidedsleeve.com/
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So what all do I need to run a BW S366? I currently have the Lex/550 mod installed, wideband, AFPR, SAFC II, I do have a Walbro 255 but I rather get the MK4 TT pump because it's just better. I plan to buy a MK4 TT pump, fuel dampener bypass hose which I assume is also known as the J tube?, T4 turbo manifold, V-band 3in downpipe, I believe I need to block off or bypass the coolant turbo lines because I think this turbo is only oil cooled.
fuel dampner and j tube are 2 different things.
you will also need a wastegate.
can block off the turbo coolant lines.
id also start looking into a standalone and ditching the lex and getting a real tune.
you will also need a wastegate.
can block off the turbo coolant lines.
id also start looking into a standalone and ditching the lex and getting a real tune.
well I don't want more than 400hp from the 7M I just want to run the S366 at low boost until I do the 2jz swap and use it on there. Thanks for reminding me about the wastegate. I've always read for my goals SAFC is good for that a standalone would be kind of a waste of money for stuff like this really.
Standalone are never a waste of money.
And for 400hp a s366 is a bit over kill. A s360 or s363 or s362fmw would be a better fit.
And for 400hp a s366 is a bit over kill. A s360 or s363 or s362fmw would be a better fit.
yea the S366 is overkill but like I said I am going to use it mainly for my 2jz build where I will be turning the boost up. To replace the fuel pump do you really have to drop the tank? I saw a circle cover in the hatch and usually that holds the pump hanger from my experience.