The Small Questions Thread
- Thread starter RPSil13
- Start date
hvyman;2018767 said:
Look where the key goes, and to the right. There is a good 1/2" gap there to the right. That doesn't move when adjusting the steering wheel.
Doat;2018777 said:
I'm not sure. I think there are little studs on the bottom of it with nuts on them and rubber washers or so that deteriorate over time. I think you can possibly replace them with new ones. I haven't done it, but I remember reading where someone had done this. For some reason I think it was Grandavi, but I could be wrong.
grsupra87;2018778 said:
Sure it's in the right spot. The different part numbers appear to be Canadian versions.
Only 1 number for USA. I've fitted a 91 to a 88 as well with no issues.
Could be like 1 bolt hole over. Can leave the top in bolted and look and bolt the bottom in first.
Spent 2 hrs removing and messing with this (steering column surround) thing. What I learned....there are tapped holes in the steering column that do not line up with this surround. For the inside (top and bottom) pieces, it should take 5 screws. 2 of them are machine screws. 1 goes to the left of the column in a tapped hole in the aluminum. The other goes into a tapped hole in the aluminum right underneath the ignition. The holes in the plastic piece do not line up. The one on the ignition side is the real culprit. The top is attached to the bottom with three pointed screws. You can attach the top to the bottom and still have it line up snug with the light ring around the key hole, but the screwhole that goes into the bottom under the ignition is a good 1/2" off from where the tapped hole actually is. If you put that screw in, it pulls the whole thing way out of line. So, since I am not having any luck finding the correct surround, I drilled a hole in the correct space and now will go out and see if that solves the problem. If that doesn't do it, I guess I'll live with it. Even though it looks stupid and will probably break.
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89+ has three part numbers for the surround. Have you tried to buy one from Toyota? They seem relatively cheap, although might be discontinued.
I washed the underside of my car for the first time this year with a hose and the thumb over the end type of pressure so nothing major along the lines of pressure. Well after drying my car off took her out for a drive and noticed when downshifting my headlight would flicker or actually go off for short amounts of time as well as an all around flicker of anything illuminated inside of the car. Question what may or might be causing this? Any ideas or theories are appreciated. Thanks.
My mk3 has started making a knock sound when I turn left, not full lock at all, or when I am going up or down an incline at an angle it knocks once or twice feels like it's from the front left. I figure it's a ball joint but I can't tell which one it is since they look fine and I was wiggling the rotor assembly up and down and side to side it did not budge. What do you guys think it is? I do need to replace my bushings but I want to get OEM bushings and I can't find a way to order all of them lol.
By your description, it could also be the steering rack bushings. Usually ball joints give you a bit of a vibration. I do a side to side on the tire with it on the ground.. If it's bad you can usually feel it. If its "minor" sometimes you can't. My tie rod ends need replacing but I can only feel it when I'm on curves. Steers easier in one direction. Doesn't make noise though. can you feel it in the steering wheel?
(Remember, im it an expert, just going by personal experience with it)
(Remember, im it an expert, just going by personal experience with it)
No I don't think I feel it in the steering wheel I mostly feel it with my feet like when it knocks I can feel the vibration with my feet.
I re-lubed the lower ball joints and it still clunks I think it's my sway bar end links because it clunks when the body shifts to one side as I go up or down an incline and I do that at an angle since my car is lowered. Maybe over time doing it at an angle with factory sway bars and end links finally did its damage.
This is how to check the ball joints for wear.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FA&P=21
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FA&P=21
The key point is that if the arms are fully extended with the car on jacks everything binds up and you can't see the slop. You need to get it close to normal angles like it would be with the car on the ground.
I was right it was the sway bar end link I installed Moog replacements and the sound went away but one nut fucked the threads on one end link, so for now I got one Moog and one stock that is still good until I get a replacement part.
So I have a 90's supra NA W58(rod knock) . Ran into an awesome deal for an 87 turbo with no tranny or engine but he has a 91 7mgte with "30,000" miles got both for $900. Compression checked out and looks pretty clean. Ecu and harness are intact. My question is would there be any issues swapping it in mine has no ABS but has LSD. Also I'm planning on doing HG while it's out of the car and replacing all hoses prob with a silicone eBay kit. Not sure how long my tranny will hold either. Any info on any issues I might run into would be awesome. Also if I should do anything else while the gte is out?
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W58 is fine until you top 500-600 hp IMO. The diff on your NA supra will probably be typical where you will have more acceleration but lower top end. (4.3 gears?)
You just rev higher at 60 mph than a typical diff on a turbo car. I'm not sure if the lsd is normal for NA's, mine had it.
You will want a GTE ECU but having ever done 7mge to GTE I will leave that to research and other comments. But your trans won't suffer being behind the turbo.
You just rev higher at 60 mph than a typical diff on a turbo car. I'm not sure if the lsd is normal for NA's, mine had it.
You will want a GTE ECU but having ever done 7mge to GTE I will leave that to research and other comments. But your trans won't suffer being behind the turbo.
