The only non-replaceable OEM bushings are the front lowers, and if you understand how the forces are oriented on those bushings you'll understand why they are not replaceable.
The Small Questions Thread
- Thread starter RPSil13
- Start date
Couple questions.
First, I 1jz swapped and when I plug my horn in the alarm keeps going off. When it's unplugged, the alarm doesn't go off. I need the horn to work for inspection. Any ideas? I've tried resetting the alarm by turning the key in the door.
Second, are there any aftermarket nose replacements? And is there another term for the nose? I'm not having luck finding anything about it. I can only find bumpers.
First, I 1jz swapped and when I plug my horn in the alarm keeps going off. When it's unplugged, the alarm doesn't go off. I need the horn to work for inspection. Any ideas? I've tried resetting the alarm by turning the key in the door.
Second, are there any aftermarket nose replacements? And is there another term for the nose? I'm not having luck finding anything about it. I can only find bumpers.
Only aftermarket nose piece (valance) I believe is the regulus nose piece. It has two air flow vents. That's all I know about
Anyone know if 89+ front lower control arms will fit a pre-89 subframe? Pre 89 front lower control arms are discontinued. I went with poly bushings, but would definitely prefer OEM rubber
They will fit fine. It has an updated part number for the pre 89 arms that would be for a 89-90 car. And then 2 more updates for 91 and 92. Prolly a bushing change.
I have a new spec stage 2 clutch that is gonna go in my car. It's a 1jz gte/r154. Will this clutch be able to hold low 500hp?
HMNGSupraMKIII;2025109 said:
Stage 2 is rated for 460ft/lbs. It will be close because a 1J usually has less torque then hp. So.... Maybe lol
what do you guys think about going with a GM MAF translator? my coworker wants to sell me one but not sure if I should get it. How does it work exactly he says I hook it up to my charge pipe and I can get rid of the intake on the turbo and just have a filter.
Doat;2025113 said:
I am also looking into this bc I got a gte but I got bigger plans than the ct26 that came with it. I'm thinking of transferring over all the turbo parts onto my ge that I'm rebuilding. Only question I have is can this be done on ge engine harness. I have a coil pack, ignitor and 2 CPS's but no afm . Idk if I can find a way to make it work using the turbo stuff I found a post saying it could be done using the distributor,AFM etc but no real info on it. I'm not to savvy with wiring. Id be fine hacking up the ge harness with info shedding light on this but no luck so far [emoji19]
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that is the same problem I have with the MAF-T I can't really find info on how to use it and what it's really used for, what supporting mods are needed to run it, etc. I don't want to install it then my motor blows up.
Doat;2025484 said:
http://www.fullthrottletech.com/for...1&pp=20&sort=lastpost&order=desc&daysprune=-1
found this helpful. It pretty much sounds like a piggyback. Allowing you to remove the MAF and use a bigger GM sensor? All you would need is a wide band to keep an eye on your AFRs. You can run it on stock or BPU's. Might give this a shot.
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so I am going to hunt down my oil leak soon it drips from under the crank pulley. I plan to remove the timing covers and see if it's the front main seal or oil pump seal, do I have to remove the thermostat housing to get the cover off or can I just remove the lower cover without removing the upper cover?
You could loosen the top and remove the lower but in order to replace the crank seal you have to removed the timing belt which it would be better to just remove the t stat housing.
well I am not sure if those are leaking I just want to see if they are and if they are leaking oil then I will take the time to remove the T stat housing and replace the seals and timing belt. I just want to take a look.
Imo your doing all the work to get in there might as well replace them if you are unsure of when they were last changed.
I know the front main seal was changed about a year or two ago but that was after I retardedly put the timing gear on backwards and started the car lol. The oil pump seal I don't think I changed at all I suspect it is that or the front main seal. I guess I will just replace them all I mean if they aren't the cause then it won't hurt to replace them anyway. Now when I put the new front main and oil pump seal would it be a good idea to put a little bit of silicone around the outside to just make sure it seals better?