Google it, there's a couple write ups
This will start you off
http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/1988-Toyota-Supra-Overview-c4224
This will start you off
http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/1988-Toyota-Supra-Overview-c4224
The Small Questions Thread
- Thread starter RPSil13
- Start date
Sside;2039709 said:If you don't go up to 2.5 you will increase slowness.... Bigger pipes means more speed duh... Just do it....
Just to comment on this comment. The thinking here is slightly flawed. You have to match the pipe to the application. Too big means loss of pressure which means you cant get enough air into the intake in the short time it has. Too little means restrictive so not enough air will be waiting to get into the intake.
Its a common misconception. People think big turbo = big power. That's also flawed. Your engine can only take so much air at its given stroke timing. An overly big turbo wont do anything other than increase spool time. You need a turbo that is matched to the volume necessary throughout the powerband. Same with piping on intake and exhaust. You can go too big. Now... to figure it out using physics and all the math calculations isn't straight forward and easy, but I believe its there.
My SP6262 is actually a bit too big for my 7M's needs so I have a later spool. However, it does hold power throughout the power range so I don't get a dropped boost curve at my top RPM so I am happy with it. Once I put on a Quick Spool Valve (QSV), the spool time should be closer to what I actually expected so I don't have that big hammer hit the car late in the game. It's really my only complaint. My ignition cut is set for 6200 rpm so I get 2000 rpm of full turbo before shifting. That's not a lot of time.. lol.
And finally, for the DM intercooler, expect to have problems with the crossover pipe because they used some blind person to measure it and do the bends. It wants to NOT be bolted where its supposed to (by about 1.5") and the angle wants to put it through where the stock airbox is rather than the fender hole. I just tossed mine.
What all is involved with converting a pre-89 to a 89+ rear spoiler? Is it just a simple bolt on or do you have to drill holes for the extended part of the spoiler?
Lol sorry, I saw an old past on tapatalk and replied to it and didn't notice the pages, and I think it is more involved then just bolt on, I think a couple of more holes need to be drilled
The pre89 has only two posts holding it up the 89 is a lot different so new holes and clips. Center, and quarters. New holes if I recall correctly.
I also have a question about wiring. I am getting a JDM MK3 with a digital cluster and want to put a 2jz in it, will the cluster still work with the motor? As far as I know the harness for the dash is separate from the engine harness, so it should work correctly right?
Grandavi;2040293 said:
Not on the exhaust you can't. Pressure moves from high to low. Heat moves from hot to cold. The easier it is, the faster it happens. A giant intake manifold will hurt velocity at lower speed, this is true. On the exhaust of a turbo car, the dyno shows otherwise.
Is this as far as arp studs engage? I cleaned the thread with a bottom tap, didn't get a whole lot of junk out either.
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So I'm going NA-T have people gotten away without using an oil cooler? Or is it a better idea to go ahead and get one?
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Is actually usually best to get one because with the added "stress" from a turbo, your oil will heat up a lot more than na