Yeah I wouldnt be using that machine shop again haha Just get them to reimburse you for the block and go elsewhere. As for bearings have you looked into ACL? Very good brand and widely used in the import world.
The Madness Begins... 90 N/A-T Build
- Thread starter Backlash2032
- Start date
I've heard ACLs are hard to come by.. And as for the machine shop.. They actually did a very good job for everything else. If they wouldn't have tapped that other knock sensor to the wrong thread pitch then it would have been perfect. Shit happens when you drill and tap and weld and drill and tap lol.. I'm looking into buying a GTE block anyway, so they won't have to mess around with drilling and tapping. So this won't really be an NA-T build. I've pretty much decided to go with turbo pistons for the lower compression. If there was E-85 around here I would probably still do NA-T, but there isn't. I still like the idea of slightly higher compression, but its just not viable with the lower grade fuel I have in shitsville...
As far as the bearings go you really need to measure the size of the crank journals and the rod big ends/main bearing bores. Once you know the exact measurement of all of these you can select the proper bearing for the clearance you want to achieve. Gets rid of any guesswork. Sorry to hear about the block, sounds like a mess. Its a shame they didn't just do it right the first time.
The whole thing might be a blessing in disguise. I feel that by running the lower compression I will get more power through more boost. Plus now I don't have to mess around with Turbo feed and drain.. just have to get an fittings for Turbo feed and drain lol. The machine shop is paying for a new short block anyway..
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So. I found an entire 7M-GTE for 250 bucks. Thats EVERYTHING, both manifolds, turbo, head, block, everything. Including ECU and wiring harness! The machine shop is paying for the engine, plus fuel to get it, as its in Kansas. I think thats a steal..
WHAT. A. PITA. Seriously. There has got to be a better way of doing valvesprings. 3 and a half hours to do all the seals, and put the valve springs on. Only took me about 20 minutes to get the seals on... I'm so glad its over. Now I have to deal with shimming the cams though..
Pics!
Head mating surface, its a little oily from when we oiled the valves.. It does have a mirror finish though.
DONE!
Pics!
Head mating surface, its a little oily from when we oiled the valves.. It does have a mirror finish though.
DONE!
I used a tool designed for OHV engines.. Not OHC. A little something like the picture.
Then i took an old craftsman 11/16th deep well socket and cut the side off of it, and put it in between the valve spring and the tool. Worked really well for getting them off. Not so much for back on...
Now all I have to do is shim the cams in order to pass the time before I get my engine back from the machine shop... lol
this looks great keep up the good work man. I would be so pissed if the shop did something like that my block..good thing they are replacing it.
It was kind of a blessing in disguise. I forgot to tell them about the timing belt tensioner, and I was kind of worried about the high compression pistons.. So I got lower mileage pistons that are in way better condition, and low compression to boot. This time around I gave them a list of everything I wanted done. Very specific too. Deck block with timing cover, hone cylinders with tensioner torqued to 36 ft lbs. heat pistons to 60* C or 140*F to remove rods.. swap rods, etc etc etc. It was actually a lot more detailed. I basically gave them the TSRM, lol..
The ONLY downside to it all is that the guy I bought the block from lied. He said it came from a 90 supra, so I thought that it would have a 7M crank and a heavy block. But its a 6m and a light block. Oh well, its not like I'm building a 1000 horsepower 7M, and I already have a 7M crank..
The ONLY downside to it all is that the guy I bought the block from lied. He said it came from a 90 supra, so I thought that it would have a 7M crank and a heavy block. But its a 6m and a light block. Oh well, its not like I'm building a 1000 horsepower 7M, and I already have a 7M crank..
Well.. Now I have nothing to do until I get my engine back.. -_- Shimmed the cams, and assembled the rest of the valve train. And set my painted covers on just to see what it would look like.. I think it will look pretty kick ass!
Thoughts? Also, I set the all the clearances to roughly Toyota specs. I read somewhere I should open them up a little, but I didn't know how much, so I just put it together. Using the Toyota formula, clearances came out to be 10-11 thousandths on the exhaust and 8-9 thousandths on the intake.
Thoughts? Also, I set the all the clearances to roughly Toyota specs. I read somewhere I should open them up a little, but I didn't know how much, so I just put it together. Using the Toyota formula, clearances came out to be 10-11 thousandths on the exhaust and 8-9 thousandths on the intake.
I was getting excited to start working on my engine again.. I even ordered washers for my ARP studs, and assembly lube and rings. Then the machine shop called. Their surfacer had been tied up for the week, so they finally got around to that.. Then they went to hone it, and the block I got has a lot of pits in it. So they're gonna hone it 20 thou, and get me new pistons. They'll be in next week.. So I guess that's when I get my block, crank, rods, and pistons back.
I was really hoping to order bearings and such soon... Atleast I know it won't sound like a diesel with small pistons in big holes!
I was really hoping to order bearings and such soon... Atleast I know it won't sound like a diesel with small pistons in big holes!
Huge update! Got my block back from the machine shop, it looks great! I'll just let the pictures do the talking.
I don't have pictures of the crank because all it looks like is a cleaned 7M crankshaft.. lol
I also made my own center valley cover...
After some trimming and cutting and a couple of coats of primer..
and finally paint!
So now I'm just trying to figure out what size of bearings to buy, if you guys haven't seen the other thread already. So that's all for now..
P.S. Im not that good of a metal worker.. After finding out how difficult it is to make a center valley cover, I just went and looked at the stocker, and realised it was just a piece of metal covered in plastic.. So i cracked all the plastic off and thats what's left! Looks great!
I don't have pictures of the crank because all it looks like is a cleaned 7M crankshaft.. lol
I also made my own center valley cover...
After some trimming and cutting and a couple of coats of primer..
and finally paint!
So now I'm just trying to figure out what size of bearings to buy, if you guys haven't seen the other thread already. So that's all for now..
P.S. Im not that good of a metal worker.. After finding out how difficult it is to make a center valley cover, I just went and looked at the stocker, and realised it was just a piece of metal covered in plastic.. So i cracked all the plastic off and thats what's left! Looks great!
Another pretty big update.. Just ordered about 300 dollars worth of Toyota select fits.. totally worth it. Can't wait for them to come in!
So. Toyota called me today. Apparently several of the bearings, and the standard size thrust washers have been discontinued.
So I called up the machine shop, and he advised me to buy a standard set of bearings since all my numbers were pretty damn close to each other. So that's what I did.
Called up autozone, 125 for a set of sealed power bearings.. no clue if they came with thrust washers.. went to my local parts store, no luck with federal moguls.. so I just said screw it, and went to drift motion and unloaded my bank account. A standard set of clevites, a Titan mhg, and a gasket set are coming.
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So I called up the machine shop, and he advised me to buy a standard set of bearings since all my numbers were pretty damn close to each other. So that's what I did.
Called up autozone, 125 for a set of sealed power bearings.. no clue if they came with thrust washers.. went to my local parts store, no luck with federal moguls.. so I just said screw it, and went to drift motion and unloaded my bank account. A standard set of clevites, a Titan mhg, and a gasket set are coming.
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My Clevite/NDC bearings finally came in, and I've concluded that the machine shop fails at measuring.. Seeing as if I used his measurements, and then subtracted the bearing shell size from it (.08 for those who were wondering) I would get -0.008.. But when I plastigauge it I get roughly .002 for all the mains. A couple are a hair larger, a couple a hair smaller. All of them well within spec.
I'll post pictures up in a bit.
I'll post pictures up in a bit.
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Sorry for the lack of updates. So I have the bottom end put together, minus the oil pump and pump drive. The rod clearances are about .002 as well. IJ set his clearances at this and they are also under the Max clearance in the TSRM. I will probably end up running 5w-40 oil though.
I also painted the intake manifold, and the 3000 pipe.. getting ready to mount them to the head. I'm gonna try to get as much done before putting the head on. So that means cams, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, all the goodies. EGR etc. Then its pretty much put the head on then drop the engine in.
So today I started work on repairing the gte harness. Its going pretty well. Just need a little extra loom and some shielded wire to rewire the knock sensors. I didn't get a picture of how its sitting right now, but its looking a lot better than this already.
So. I have 13 days to finish putting my car back together. I'm hoping to drop the engine in either late Friday or early Saturday. Fingers crossed!
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I also painted the intake manifold, and the 3000 pipe.. getting ready to mount them to the head. I'm gonna try to get as much done before putting the head on. So that means cams, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, all the goodies. EGR etc. Then its pretty much put the head on then drop the engine in.
So today I started work on repairing the gte harness. Its going pretty well. Just need a little extra loom and some shielded wire to rewire the knock sensors. I didn't get a picture of how its sitting right now, but its looking a lot better than this already.
So. I have 13 days to finish putting my car back together. I'm hoping to drop the engine in either late Friday or early Saturday. Fingers crossed!
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I'll go ahead and leave this here for you to give you some ideas..
http://jzxproject.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=7234&st=0
http://jzxproject.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=7234&st=0