Sheedy Built Supra

sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
supraguy@aol;1978873 said:
Just so you know...
If that stainless fuel line to your rail ever touches that bare contact on you alternator underneath it...
You lose the car.
I almost did. Switched to nylon covered braid and used a rubber terminal cover off a Toyota pickup.

Didn't think of that. I will definitely be putting a boot back on that alternator

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sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
Pulled the turbo, it was definitely the issue.

Sending it back to Driftmotion for inspection and they may or not repair it under warranty. We will see what happens

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IndigoMKII

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May 9, 2011
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Madison, Virginia
sheedy126;1979557 said:
Pulled the turbo, it was definitely the issue.

Sending it back to Driftmotion for inspection and they may or not repair it under warranty. We will see what happens

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You just aren't having any luck with turbos are you?
 

sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
IndigoMKII;1980226 said:
You just aren't having any luck with turbos are you?

definitely not, im not sure what the deal is..
2 stock ct 26's, hx35 used was bad, rebuild from my friend didnt go well, now the turbo that was suppose to be really nice..failed.

maybe im having oiling issues, or could just be a coinsidence
 

atmperformance

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Sep 17, 2013
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San jose
sheedy126;1979557 said:
Pulled the turbo, it was definitely the issue.

Sending it back to Driftmotion for inspection and they may or not repair it under warranty. We will see what happens

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that all depends on how much they're willing to spend to keep a customer happy ;)
 

sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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atmperformance;1980314 said:
what does your turbo oil feed line restrict hole look like?

I will get you a picture hopefully this weekend, ill be pretty busy this weekend though.

I was told to not run a restrictor at all, so that's what I went with

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Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Makes you wonder. Without truly diagnosing the failure on the first two you would kind of assume there is a problem that is killing the turbos.

I was able to get a refund for my DM 57 Trim without too much hassle but my 60-1 never had a issue afterwards. I have never heard what the fault was though... Which kinda bugs me
 

atmperformance

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sheedy126;1980322 said:
I was told to not run a restrictor at all, so that's what I went with

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looks like yours blowing out the oil seal from too much oil pressure, only other thing i can think of that would cause this is excessive blow by
 

sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
I wish I knew the issue so I could go after it and fix it.
I was told specificly not to run a restrictor on the holset turbo, I wonder if that could be wrong. I doubt its blow by as its a pretty fresh rebuild and was built with tighter tolerances.

I'm running about 3psi idle and 25-30ish psi at 3000 rpm.

Any holset experts that could chime in with their setup and any input would be greatly appreciated

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sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
Well, after do a lot of research, I hear that these holset turbos do not like high oil pressure, especially on gas engines. They like to see a max of around 40 at full rpm. Since this turbo started dumping oil at cold start just warming up where oil pressure is 50-60 psi, I'm thinking that's way too much causing the seals to go.

After reading about resteictors, I may want a .60" or .70 ish resteictor I believe. But will still need to do a little more research.

There isn't a ton of information about 7mgte's and holset turbos

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sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
Little update, out with the old, in with the new cooler. mounted the oil cooler right behind the bumper where the fog light would have been

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sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
you know im not to sure, i would think that it would raise the pressure a little but would drastically reduce the flow. i would think without the restrictor, the oil would build up since it flows a lot more causing it to go out the seal?
 

IndigoMKII

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May 9, 2011
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I think its a problem with your drain. -4 at our oil pressures should not be able to flood the CHRA in a HX35 with a non-restricted -10 drain.

This was taken directly from a holset service manual.

13. Oil pressure of 150 kPa (20 lbf/in2) must show at the turbocharger oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine
firing to prevent damage to turbocharger bearing system. A flexible supply pipe is recommended.
14. The minimum oil pressure when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa (30 lbf/in2). Maximum permissible operating pressure is 500 kPa (72 lbf/in2) although 600 kPa (88 lbf/in2) is permitted during
cold start up. Under idling conditions pressure should not fall below 70 kPa (10 lbf/in2).
 

black89t

boost'en down 101
Oct 27, 2007
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idk how i never saw this thread!!! i guess thats what i get for never looking in the build thread section. im pretty sure you don't need a oil restrictor. i don't have one on my na-t 2jz and it makes higher oil pressure than my old 7m. im using a -4 feed and -10 return. been running it for a while now and it doesn't leak a drop. i would say if you keep blowing turbos there has to be a issue with the feed or return or possible extreme blowby but ive seen motors that blow the dipstick out cause of so much blowby and the turbos don't fail. like my buddy's old volvo. is your return going to the stock location or some where else?
 

sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
I'll take a look at my drain and see if there is any blockage or kinks. It's going back into the factory location to the block. Would you recommend running is where the factor oil cooler drain would be?

Since im running a aftermarket cooler and remote oil filter setup?

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scottiedawg66

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Apr 1, 2005
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^ great advice on the drain. My journal bearing bw instructions told me to prime my turbo before actually starting. I cranked for a while until i saw oil flowing from my -14 drain.

My drain goes where the factory return goes (1jz). I have never had an oiling issue.
 

black89t

boost'en down 101
Oct 27, 2007
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humboldt, ca
sheedy126;1980801 said:
I'll take a look at my drain and see if there is any blockage or kinks. It's going back into the factory location to the block. Would you recommend running is where the factor oil cooler drain would be?

Since im running a aftermarket cooler and remote oil filter setup?

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i would say the stock drain should work better as long as the turbo isn't mounted so low that the drain levels out. where the stock cooler returns will most likely work to but if you like to run it with a extra quart like you should then that spot is more likely to get below oil level especially on sustained cornering G's. maybe post some pics of how you have the drian before you mess with it and see if anyone sees something thats a issue.