Shaeff's buildup (400rwhp)

[shaeff]

tony, i got it on monday. my sister's back in the hospital, again. she cant eat or drink anything without losing her stomach. looks like the project will be on hold till friday-ish.

however, in some spare time i managed to find, i soldered on my new injector clips, and ground down the J-tube block off plate in preparation for paint. i'll post pics whenever i can get some taken... who knows when that'll be.

(thanks for keeping an eye out, tony)

-shaeff

 

[hottscennessey]

i'm about to put my headgasket on (cometic) whats this about permatrex brake quiet, and the RTV stuff...? sorry for being so vauge, i'm on my way to work, but i've never heard of this.

 

[shaeff]

here's what Adjuster told me about Permatex Brake Quiet:

Yep, I've used the brake quiet spray on a few HG's for the 7MGTE. (Mine, and two others, plus a few guys here on the boards have done it with good results too.)

I was told about it by Tony, the guy with the Orange MK3 making 800+rwhp in Vegas. (He did a MHG change for me at a SILV one year, and this was one of a few good tips he gave me.)

The brake quiet spray is nice and tacky, seals up the gasket really well, and is very heat resistant. (Burns off around the cyc edge I'm sure, but not anywhere else.)
I've seen heads pulled off later after using the brake quiet, and it is still intact, sealing up the coolant and oil passeges nicely.

I don't know the Cometic gasket, but I've used a Greddy gasket on 4 motors now. (Same gasket, no failures, but the engines went down for other reasons. #4 is running strong however.)

Here is the easy way to use this stuff.
Clean everything very well with brake cleaner and some rags. (No oil is best.)
Then hang the gasket so you can spray both sides. I use a bungie cord off the track for my garage door.
Spray both sides of the gasket, putting a nice coat with minimal runs. (They are no big deal if you do get a run, but you want a nice thick coating, so two coatings per side is a good idea.)
Let this hang for 10 to 15 min and get nice and tacky. (Dry out some.)

Make sure you do not have head studs in place yet. I've found putting the head into place with studs on is a total PITA, and you have to back out the studs to get the washers into place anyway.

Now, you have cleaned up the block with brake cleaner and clean rags. There is no oil on the block. (or any other debris.)

BEFORE you lay down the gasket, put two small beads of "The Right Stuff" sealer (or other sealant) at the point where the front cover it attached to the block. IF you don't seal this up with sealer, it will leak oil later. (Or if you did not machine the block with the cover in place, it will be too high, and you will need to file down the front cover to the height of the block deck.)

Make sure you have the right side of the gasket, and lay it down on the block in place. (Only fits one way, but if you try and put it on upside down, it will screw up the brake quiet coating, and you will have to clean it all up, and coat the gasket again.)

Get a friend to help place the head onto the block. (Or do it yourself, I've had no issues on a few engines this way.)
Do not lay the head down, and then slid it into place. It needs to drop onto the alignment studs/dowels with very little if any sideways movement once you contact the metal head gasket. (You don't want to mess up the brake quiet.)

Use the moly lube on each stud, and the washers. I've found that sliding the washers down the studs is the easy way to drop them into the right place on the head. Make sure you have the Allen head up on the stud. Then put the stud into place finger tight. (Do no tourqe it down.) Do this for all the studs/washers. Then lube the nuts, and put them into place, also finger tight. (I used a 12 point deep socket to help after getting the nuts started to make sure nothing was cross threaded.)

Start your tourqe passes. I go to 50lbs first. Then 70, 90 and finally end up at 100 ish. (Current ones are at 103lbs.) Follow the TSRM pattern, going from the center, working to the outsides in a cross pattern.

You MUST tourqe down the head when you place it onto the engine before the brake quiet fully sets up. (I'd say you have about 45 min or so after you spray the stuff on. Really more like 30 min if you let it get tacky for 15...)

Good luck, and enjoy the power and fail free operation of a good MHG.

Greg

 

[hottscennessey]

thats some great adivce, i'd be out of luck if i didnt see that when i was putting my engine back together. thanks a lot!

 

[shaeff]

well, the project is off hold now. my sister, after a long and drawn out hospital stay, two surgeries, and about 10lbs of weight loss, is finally recovering. yesterday i painted the oil pan, re-shimmed the oil pump (heard a better way to do it, so i took out my custom shim and used washers) i also lowered the oil pickup so that it's deeper in the pan. (no pics of that, batteries died)

so as of now, the motor is upright again, pan is on/sealed up, the stainless steel braided fuel lines are all assembled for my AFPR, and installed. next is the wiring harness, upper intake, and TB assembly, and then the motor goes back on some wood blocks to put the flywheel/clutch/transmission on, then the motor goes in! woo! if i keep making as much progress as i did just the other day, it'll be on the road this week this week! i cant wait!

-shaeff

 

[Justin727]

glad to hear buddy. Hope you get it together quickly!!!

 

[shaeff]

thanks, justin. i hope you get the 'good side' of the storm! best of luck to YOU!

-shaeff

 

[shaeff]

well, after several days of piecing things back together, it runs. i have some pics, but i didnt have access to a digicam the entire time, so there aren't that many. however, here's an update:

my dad decided to help me put the motor in last second before he left for a 4 day vacation. (sorry tony, i would have called you, but it was very last second)

the motor went in easily, it took approximately 15 minutes to get it bolted down. everything is now hooked up, and the car starts and runs. i *think* my base timing is off by like one tooth or something, as i cant rev past 3500rpm at a standstill, or 2000rpm while driving. it's running rich, so i'm going to be turning down the fuel pressure. i've got the lex screw all the way backed out, and right now fuel pressure is at 40psi with the vaccuum line pinched.

i drove the car down the road, and it drives OK, but not very well. definately not well enough to actully go anywhere. right now i'm just trying to figure out why i cant rev past the aformentioned brick wall.

i'm picking up new spark plugs tonight, just for good measure, and i'll be messing with the base timing either tonight at like 1am, or tomorrow morning... hopefully i'll figure it out. i've got a new timing belt on the way, and i'll probably be putting that in soon. especially if i cant get the base timing perfect.

i'll keep you all updated, and i'll upload some pics shortly.

-shaeff

 

[shaeff]

well, i've narrowed my problem down to my injectors. two of them sound normal, clicking sound, two sound like they're popping, one sounds like it's wooshing, and the other sounds like it's knocking. so, i checked them, and called RC engineering, and it seems that my injectors arent RC's. so i have no idea what they are, which also means that i got ripped off, (glad i got a damn good deal on them,- $300 for a lex afm and the 550's)

so anyway, i'm looking for new injectors now. (only RC's, dont ask why ) once i get those, i do believe that i'll be up and running properly.

-shaeff

 

[SupraMario]

I want video of your rebuild.

 

[shaeff]

haha, when my engine runs properly, i'll consider that the initial startup. i cant even rev the motor right now, it just idles, and when i hit the gas it falls on its face and dies.

check out this thread for more info on how crappy my car is being:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6026

-shaeff

 

[SupraMario]

yea, ive been watching that thread but its way over my head.

 

[shaeff]

haha, it's over mine too...

-shaeff

 

[shaeff]

ok, i figured i'd update this sucker a bit:

first off, after much help from my fellow supramania members, we eliminated EVERYTHING that could possibly hinder fuel flow. my entire fuel system was brand new, except for three things. those three things are- the steel hardline that runs the underside of the car, the softline from the tank to the filter, and the softline from the front of the hardline to the banjo bolt area.

see this thread, last page, for pics of what the clog was, as well as a full explanation of everything i went through to fix the problem. (it's about 3 pages of troubleshooting!)

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6026

so anyway, the car fired right up after i replaced those lines, and i also put ANOTHER new filter on it, just for good measure. (incase the already new one was clogged, which it was partially.

the idle was lopey, choppy, etc, and it stalled out every so often, which i'm still working on. however, the car now redlines no problem. (doing so at idle, not alot though, as it cant be good for the motor)

i lowered the fuel pressure a bit, (about 27psi, vacuum pinched) and it idled much more smoothly, and didnt smell quite as rich. when i blip the throttle, the fuel pressure increases as it's supposed to. (aeromotive AFPR)

i have an upper hardpipe, with what i've been told is a 'sheepdog' blow off valve. (not sure how it sounds, or if i even like it, but i got a good deal on the pipe, and my stockers were about to fall to pieces) i have the classic bog down/run rich whilst shifting problem, (bogging when the throttle is released for a stoplight).

i'll get used to it.

i believe i have a small vacuum leak somewhere, though i havent been able to pinpoint it yet. i think it's in the IC pipes.

as soon as i get some nuts and bolts, i'll properly mount the intercooler, as it's simply hung in there with a few zip ties, to see if the car would actually run.

i just bought an RS*R Concept exhaust from dr. jonez, so now i have a good 3" exhaust too, and i'll be getting a K&N FIPK shortly. then the car is roadworthy.

after that's all done, *probably while i'm waiting on those parts, actually* i'll be soldering up the relay/wiring i used to drive the fuel pump, as well as wiring up a separate relay for my foglights, and replacing the bulbs in them,as one of 'em is fried.

i've also got dibs on an entire new gray cloth interior, to replace my gray leather, and my cracked dash. *new heater core, too!!*

before spring, i'd like to have my 57 or 60 trim unclipped CT upgrade, and some nice 315's for my mkiv TT wheels.

as soon as things around here slow down, i'll be installing my Greddy WB o2, and my SAFC-II, which are both taking up closet space.

i'll have the video soon enough, (initial startup, and perhaps a burnout or something my tires in the rear ((kumho ecsta supras)) are already bald from when i last had the car on the road.

here is my mod list, once again:

1986.5 chassis, '89 7MGTE, Clutchmasters Stage III, Fidanza Lighweight Flywheel, Lexus AFM, RC 550cc Injectors, Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator with FP gauge and stainless steel braided lines, pulsatoin damper removal kit and j-tube bypass, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, Megan Racing Boost Gauge, Becauseican Divorced Wastegate Downpipe, RS*R Concept Cat-back, Cometic 1.4mm MHG, ARP Headstuds, 1mm Oversized Valves, Dr. Jonez Manual Boost Controller, Eibach Pro Kit, Koni Yellows, Upper Hardpipe/BOV, . 3400lbs with driver *not installed yet...* - MKIV TT rims, SAFC-II, Greddy WB o2 gauge.

-shaeff

 

[aye mate]

Sounds great, Shaeff! Think you'll be ready for E-town on the 5th?

 

[shaeff]

so long as i get my exhaust and intake in time, i believe i can have the bugs worked out by then! i would LOVE to go!

-shaeff

 

[shaeff]

so, i went out and boosted a little today. i didnt floor it, as i still have a little 87 octane gas in the tank, mixed with 93. i let it build to 5psi. boost came on sooo fast though! at 5psi the car really got up and started moving! i cant wait til i work all the kinks out of it to crank that up to 12, and then 15psi.

*i never, ever drove this car with boost beyond 6psi. i never had an MBC until now, and i never wanted to increase boost with a 20 year old fuel pump*

times have changed. i think this motor is ready to take it.

-shaeff

 

[aye mate]

Sounds super Shaeff! See you on the 5th?

 

[shaeff]

i sure hope so. i've just had a fire lit under my ass, as of 20 minutes ago. my daily driver '94 toyota 4x4's starter decided to die in my girlfriend's driveway. that means that i HAVE to get the supra done. (already had a starter coming from champion, as of early this week, hopefully it's here soon!)

getting an inspection this week. the car was never taken off the road. so i just gotta clean up the interior and tighten down some loose ends, and that's all.

i'm keeping my fingers crossed.

-shaeff

 

[Nick M]

Very nice set up and execution. Get it full speed soon so you can hit the dyno and 7Mpower.