The 5m oil pump gear does fit with the spacer. The teeth are identical. Toyotanos is running one without a problem.
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Ridiculous 1000HP 7M Street MK3 Build
- Thread starter NegativeGeForce
- Start date
subscribed! looks to be an awesome build and its being done right. awesome work im a little bit jealous ha.
So what are you doing with the squirters? I saw a picture not sure if the looked new or plugged? I didn't see your crossover tube either figuring your going to change that to get rid of the banjo bolt? looks great so far.
oil rod bearings and oil use info
Sixpack made a smaller oil pump drive gear aswell, I always though about doing these..
oil pressure stuff..
oil rod bearings and oil use info
Sixpack made a smaller oil pump drive gear aswell, I always though about doing these..
oil pressure stuff..
Im using new squirters and im using the arizona oil cross over tube with the driftmotion upgraded oil pump.
I also ordered a modified oil pump drive shaft retention plate from Wes Beech.
Gonna run it all with amsoil 15w-50 dominator synthetic race oil http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/racing/dominator-15w-50-racing-oil
I also ordered a modified oil pump drive shaft retention plate from Wes Beech.
Gonna run it all with amsoil 15w-50 dominator synthetic race oil http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/racing/dominator-15w-50-racing-oil
NegativeGeForce;1996061 said:
GOODYEAR Part # 40074 Width: 1.0"; Length: 53.250"; Teeth: 142 83 ceilca supra
GOODYEAR Part # 40101 Width: 1.0"; Length: 53.250"; Teeth: 169 84 celica supra
It's different because I have tried it along ago when I had belt for a 84 and wanted to put it on my 83 motor the cogs were not the right size? why did they change I don't know.
is it the just 6m ones that changed the gear or 84 ketp the multy holes bean so long and google is not finding much
big question is why did they change it it a lighter one highly dought they cared about gas mileage
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Lol I'm scared to say a big debate topic so don't let this roll one, I've heard hard breakins right out of the box. do you have an idea or plan for one?
I had the pump/same crossover.. I deleted my squirters and didn't regret it.
I've never researched that oil before.. 15w-50 sounded soo bad until i saw synthetic.. that sounds like a great combination actually.. what drew you towards that oil?
I had the pump/same crossover.. I deleted my squirters and didn't regret it.
I've never researched that oil before.. 15w-50 sounded soo bad until i saw synthetic.. that sounds like a great combination actually.. what drew you towards that oil?
It's doable, but you have to find the correct pulley. I was lucky and got one from Rabid Chimp Performance before he closed down his operation. It could probably be used as-is, but the T-belt is a bit close to the edge for me to feel safe, so I machined a 1/8" spacer to get it more in line with where the original one was.
Some 5M engines have square t-belt teeth, some have round like the 7M. IIRC, its 85 and 86 only (maybe 6M's?).
Some 5M engines have square t-belt teeth, some have round like the 7M. IIRC, its 85 and 86 only (maybe 6M's?).
But Ian's probably right- mine was likely nicked somewhere and I just missed it. Either way it's good to go as I used the old belt vs the cams to torque the new one so no damage to this one!IJ. said:
For old school hone jobs that use stones you should always try to break it in hard and over a longer period of time because the hones are rough and so the rings have to work hard to smooth out those peaks. My machine shop (Engine lab) used diamond stones and cleaned the hone up with plateau brushes which results in a smoother bore that seat the rings quickly much like OEM's do today. Not sure if I want to flog it right away on such an expensive engine because I want to catch something early if anything goes wrong but I will do a few quick pulls after I change the breakin oil.
The reason I choose the 15w-50 Amsoil race oil is because ALL GF-4 oils are garbage and because its hot here in FL (almost every oil on the store shelves in the stores are GF-4). GF-4 spec is a watered down oil to meet emissions specifications so it doesn't provide as good film strength as the race oils with high zinc and phosphates. Race oils destroy emissions equipment and need to be changed more frequently but Amsoil race oil is good enough for regular change intervals. My car wont have any emissions so that's what i'll be using. Here is an article explaining it better http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf
Here is an interesting answer in the amsoil FAQ about the dominator oil:
Why isn’t AMSOIL Dominator® Synthetic Racing Oil recommended for street-driven vehicles?
Answer: AMSOIL Dominator Synthetic Racing Oil is a premium-quality oil formulated for maximum protection in high-performance and racing applications. It is fortified with high levels of zinc and phosphorus, which are incompatible with catalytic converters common in today’s street-driven vehicles; therefore, Dominator Racing Oil does not carry API service classifications required by many standard passenger vehicles. However, Dominator Racing Oil is the ideal recommendation for street rods, muscle cars and other high-performance vehicles driven on the street.
Edit: Ah - steve beat me to the comparison pic! Yeah I found the same gear on ebay. I am sure Ryan is probably right and there's only 1 or 2 years they made these gears on the 5m.
The reason I choose the 15w-50 Amsoil race oil is because ALL GF-4 oils are garbage and because its hot here in FL (almost every oil on the store shelves in the stores are GF-4). GF-4 spec is a watered down oil to meet emissions specifications so it doesn't provide as good film strength as the race oils with high zinc and phosphates. Race oils destroy emissions equipment and need to be changed more frequently but Amsoil race oil is good enough for regular change intervals. My car wont have any emissions so that's what i'll be using. Here is an article explaining it better http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf
Here is an interesting answer in the amsoil FAQ about the dominator oil:
Why isn’t AMSOIL Dominator® Synthetic Racing Oil recommended for street-driven vehicles?
Answer: AMSOIL Dominator Synthetic Racing Oil is a premium-quality oil formulated for maximum protection in high-performance and racing applications. It is fortified with high levels of zinc and phosphorus, which are incompatible with catalytic converters common in today’s street-driven vehicles; therefore, Dominator Racing Oil does not carry API service classifications required by many standard passenger vehicles. However, Dominator Racing Oil is the ideal recommendation for street rods, muscle cars and other high-performance vehicles driven on the street.
Edit: Ah - steve beat me to the comparison pic! Yeah I found the same gear on ebay. I am sure Ryan is probably right and there's only 1 or 2 years they made these gears on the 5m.
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Part number for the gear if anyone is interested: 1352443020
Not sure if its available anymore, but there's plenty of mkii's I saw in junkyards.
Not sure if its available anymore, but there's plenty of mkii's I saw in junkyards.
That sucks. I already have a good gear but wouldn't hurt to stock pile them incase someone else wanted to build a sick 7m 
The stock one will do fine just make sure there no burs like I listed or trouble will happen this is not a common issue
lighter pully means better for the oil drive pump shaft
quake has been running stock for ever his was not shitty muchined like I listed
lighter pully means better for the oil drive pump shaft
quake has been running stock for ever his was not shitty muchined like I listed
Thanks for the info.. some of my friends Run Royal purple. My teacher ran Amsoil synthetic race oil..I used to do oil research and just ended when i got into one arm bandit, falex test and someone on one of the forums used to send his oil samples in every couple of oil changes for recommendations.. he posted some of his findings.. think its on supraforums..NegativeGeForce;1996201 said:
It also dosen't get as hot here in oklahoma as humid as FL does.. normally..
I am not sure how easy a billet pulley is to make. The D shape collar would need some kinda of broaching process. The 5M pulley is more than enough.
Race oils are awesome but just have to be careful as most of them do not have any detergent additives.
Race oils are awesome but just have to be careful as most of them do not have any detergent additives.
Slowly moving along. My ring gaps:
TOP: 0.020"
2ND: 0.022"
OIL: 0.020"
Bad news is the exhaust valve hits the bottom of the piston valve pocket but somehow the intake valve is gonna clear by .023" with a 2mm head gasket. Its going to be an interference engine
TOP: 0.020"
2ND: 0.022"
OIL: 0.020"
Bad news is the exhaust valve hits the bottom of the piston valve pocket but somehow the intake valve is gonna clear by .023" with a 2mm head gasket. Its going to be an interference engine
Pulley wouldn't be difficult but would probably be pricey. Could start with round stock, mill the D shape in, rough in the teeth with a drill, throw it in a lathe to get it roughly to size, maybe finish it like that or send it out to get hardened and EDM finish the teeth in. Can't really see it needing to get hardened but then again I can't see why you'd need a billet pulley for this either lol.
Build is looking sweet man. Nice to see people still building crazy cars.
Build is looking sweet man. Nice to see people still building crazy cars.
NegativeGeForce;1997175 said:Bad news is the exhaust valve hits the bottom of the piston valve pocket but somehow the intake valve is gonna clear by .023" with a 2mm head gasket. Its going to be an interference engine
Hum :-(
Can you please recall us with your setup? Valve size, cam lift, head/block lapped height, pistons, etc..
1mm oversized valves, brian crower stage 3 cams (8.68mm lift), pistons are off the shelf JE asymmetrical pistons with crown and skirt coatings. Head was machined a lot (.015" or around 0.40 mm) and block was machined 0.002" or 0.05mm.
I'm just really surprised the intake valves cleared but the exhaust valve hits. There could still be a chance the exhaust valve clears with the 2mm headgasket. I clayed with a 1.5mm gasket.
I'm just really surprised the intake valves cleared but the exhaust valve hits. There could still be a chance the exhaust valve clears with the 2mm headgasket. I clayed with a 1.5mm gasket.
That's surprising my piston stick up .029 from deck and with a 2mm headgasket I still have clearance the cam is 9.50 mm of lift so I have valve to valve interface. Remember your piston is chasing your exhaust valve so at 10,000 rpm proper clearance is critical. Have you figured out your compression ratio?