Ridiculous 1000HP 7M Street MK3 Build

[NegativeGeForce]

Set the crank in tonight. About .00175 clearance on all mains using the std Clevite bearings aka NDC. .003" thrust clearance. So far so good ^_^!! Yes, I know....I gotta reposition the block on the engine stand so its weight is centered better.

 

[Aleo24]

Just read through your build. Looks like your doing it the right way first time and not cutting corners. I plan on building my spare motor for mine in the middle of the year, so its good to see the sort of work that is required to do it right.

 

[NegativeGeForce]

Yep Im trying my best to do everything as best as anyone could. Dirt is the #1 enemy. I went through like 3 cans of brake cleaner going through the block and crank then blew out the oil passages with compressed air. I found that PRI (performance racing industry) magazines and grassroots have the most wealth of knowledge and im lucky enough to have a friend thats been building engines and following the technology since the 70's...found this article to be really useful for engine building http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/rebuild-it-right/

 

[NegativeGeForce]

The assembly lube I'm using. This stuff is intense...very thick and sticky like honey. Found it at the PRI show

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

[atmperformance]

people still use plastic gauge? I like measuring several spots with a micrometer and dial bore gauge. I'm always afraid of that plastic causing a short term dry spot on my crank.
but that assembly lube is good stuff.

 

[NegativeGeForce]

Brake cleaner cleans it off nicely. Some of the best engine builders in the world still use plastigauge. It's probably best to use both micrometer/dial bore gauge and plastigauge so you can cross reference the two numbers but I felt comfortable with just using plastigauge.

Im gonna try the approach of micing the rod journals and rods along with plastigauge just so I can compare the two. I don't expect them to be off by much.

 

[NegativeGeForce]

Not much of an update, but I replaced the oil pump bushing. New one is about .001" tighter.

Also ordered $500 in new toyota bolts. Decided zinc plating 300 bolts and nuts is a nightmare, but I will still be plating a few parts like the oil pump drive gear (using one from a 5M-GE using a spacer sacrificed off from another gear).

 

[supraguy@aol]

Wish I had considered using a 5mge pump gear during my build.
I didn't know about it at the time...

 

[Grandavi]

Is the 5m pump gear an improvement?

I remember reading that the 5m and 7m oil pumps were the same except for the pick up tube. I don't remember reading anything suggesting there was any reason to run 5m over 7m

 

[NegativeGeForce]

5m oil pump gear is a stronger gear. 7m gear is known to fail at high rpm with upgraded valve train. It just needs a spacer so it lines up with the timing belt on the 7m.

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[Rollus]

:aigo: What sort of failure? (which RPM and which upgraded valvetrain?)

 

[1986.5supra_kid]

toyotanos proved this^^^

 

[SideWinderGX]

Awesome build so far!

If I ever went aftermarket rods I'd jump right to Pauters, but IJ. posted somewhere that they don't have the oil hole on the small end. Is this correct?

 

[Grandavi]

There should be a stickie on all the little improvements. Something like "7m best build options"

I'm running stock head and valves so I won't have to worry, but I like building for better if it is indeed better.

 

[Rollus]

Same as Grandavi here...

 

[Rollus]

toyotanos proved this^^^

Any link please?

 

[IJ.]

toyotanos proved this^^^

99 times out of a 100 it's because someone has used something sharp edged to jam a spoke so they can undo it and the mark left has created a stress riser...

Awesome build so far!

If I ever went aftermarket rods I'd jump right to Pauters, but IJ. posted somewhere that they don't have the oil hole on the small end. Is this correct?

It's the Spray hole in the beam that squirts Oil onto the thrust surface of the bore that's missing.

 

[NegativeGeForce]

I am slowly writing an article about my build with all the improvements so its not soo spread throughout like this thread.

here is the post where toyotanos explains the oil pump gear failure.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...ontrol-build&p=1953409&viewfull=1#post1953409

As for the Pauter rods - they have two drip oil holes on the small end. I am using oil squirters so pin oiling shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Rollus]

If I remember correctly, there is absolutely no oil hole on the Eagle Rods either..

 

[NashMan]

Oil pump gear does not work I looked into it long ago

in 83 they ran a different gear a stronger one but the cogged belt is diffrent the teeth don't match up but in 84 to 85 they use the same gear as the 6m and 7m



what you have to look out for is this I have scene this more then once