Remote Starters w/cool down timers

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dav_dman

old guy
Oct 23, 2005
107
0
0
louisville KY/so.IN metro area
dav_dman said:
so manual trans folks can stop reading now or do you mean just the remote start will not be supported for manual?
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pls read slower and maybe out loud this time?

forget it, i can head to a specialty shop and tell 'em leave the remote start off. No turbo timer but oh well, can handle by not drivin' hard before i shut it off.

how do i get unsubcribed to this thread?
 
Turbo. Targa. Life.

Turbo. Targa. Life.

SupraMania Shirt Slinger!
Apr 16, 2005
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www.geocities.com
Top of the page: Thread tools>Unsubscribe from this thread :)

Toyo, if it makes you feel any better, I HAD as much rep as Jake (reign) :p, but definately keep me in mind :D Only reason I don't have a remote start yet is because I've been putting it off in favor of buying other things, (fuel system here I come) but now that it's down to 12 degrees I'm wanting one REALLY BAD!!! lol
 
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toyo4life

Supramania Contributor
Oct 8, 2006
238
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Manchester NJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeDgE
Wire taps? Yikes. That's all I have to say.



yeah. Solder it or don't bother. It's a good deal for automatics, but i'm unsubscribing now (thread tools..got it, thx)

Okay, I was hoping to avoid having this debate but these two statements have promted me to make this post.

Let's discuss the pro's and con's of wire taps and solder connections.

First let give you a little background about myself so that you why I install the way I do. I am a professional installer with 16 years of exp. 12 of those years was spent working for one of the largest non chain installation companies in the country. At any time we employed between 35 and 45 installers. I personally have performed over 8000 installs. Many of the other installers had been there far longer than I, some as many as 20+ years. Do the math and that adds up to hundreds of thousands of installs worth of combined exp. Installer meetings were held weekly to help share knowlegde and ideas. For about the last three years I was there I was one of the quality control coordinators. Most of our business was at new car dealerships. The most important goal we had was to maintain a very low number of repairs or defective installs. Reliable installs are key to that goal. Having that many installs out there makes it easy to spot trends or problems with either product or technique.
So what's my point? Given those circumstances has given me a pretty large and accurate knowlegde base with which to form opinions about installation techniques.

Ok so lets talk about soldering. A properly done solder connection provides the best type of electrical connection. It will have the least amount of loss and provide the lowest resistance. Now how do you make a proper solder connection? The short version is there are two types of solder conn. A hot solder joint is the proper type wiring. this is where you take the two wires to be joined and heat them with your iron seperately you then melt the solder onto the wire itself. you should not be touching the iron directly ot the solder. After both wires are saturated with solder you then heat them together and the solder joins the. A cold joint is when two wires are either held or twisted together And then solder is melted using an iron to hold the wires together. A cold joint is not what you want to do. They can be very resisitive and get hot when high current loads are passed though them.
Now the problem with making a good hot solder conn. in a car has to do with the heat it takes to melt solder. depending on the tin to lead ratio in your solder, it needs to be heat to over 500 degrees. Plastics on the other hand begin to melt at just over 250 degrees. Well I'm old enought to remember when soldering ignition harnesses was all the rage. but I also remember how many cars I would see back because the heat had melted the retaining tabs in a molex conn. a few inches away. The heavier the wire the more likely there would be damage because of the time it would take to properly heat the wire. Also if you think about the practical reality of soldering inside of a car where some of the conn. have to be made while on your back and are directly over your face, it tends to make for increased chance of a poor solder conn. even if you are expirienced at it.
It's because of these circumstances that I feel that solder inside a car is not the best choice for cosistent results. Do I ever solder? Yes, My iron and spool of solder are in the top drawer of my tool box. mostly I use it for small circiuts with diodes, resistors, transitors, and caps where other connectors would be bulky or impractical. I also tend to use solder in most of my marine work where wire runs are long and heat is not an issue.

Now lets talk about T-taps. Many people have trepadations about using t-taps. This is probably due to having seen shoddy work with taps or scotch locks. Please understand this a properly install T-taps will give you years of trouble free service. A properly installed t-tap will ahve no problem handling a 30 amp draw. A properly done tap will not work its way loose. It is easier to properly install a t-tap than hot solder a wire.
I make these statements based on the combined experience of thousands of installs. If t-taps had a high failure rate the company I was with would not have used them.If we had to send an installer out for a repair that job went from profitting to break even. A second repair became a loss.

So how does this relate to what I'm offering here? First of all I'm trying to make this as simple as possible to install while retaining as closer to the level of quality my installs as possible. So this end I'm going to overbulid these harnesses connections in the harnesses will be by nylon connectors. High current igniton connections will be plug and play via a t-harness. This leaves only low current connections on 18 guage wire to be made by t-taps. I'll be providing high quality 3M T-taps not cheap knockoffs which are another reason they get a bad rap.
The purpose of this product is to acheive a high level of quality and not paying some one to hack up your car.Since I'm trying to make this as easy to install as possible it would be stupid and irresponseble for me to suggest people solder these into their cars.
I will be posting soon about which model Cliiford's I will be using.
Also be aware that these come with a life time warranty all parts but the remotes and I will be offering a lifetime warranty on the workmanshipp of the harnessing.
Thanks, Anthony.
 
Reign_Maker

Reign_Maker

Has cheezberger
Aug 31, 2005
5,767
0
0
51
Florida
Dont believe TTL, he never had the mad tyte rep I had... ;) And I would LOVE to try your kit, but I have a few problems... I have a five speed... :( So no remote starting... My power door locks arent working, or werent working ayear ago when I took the car apart, so no remote lock... :( *I dunno why the power locks wrent working, I need to fix it* I have no motor in my car, so, no remote start again, and no need for alarm. unless someone wants to push it away... :(

So at this time, I cant be the guinea pig... :( But can I get a rain check for a few months later? :D:D:D

Anyway, you get this nailed down, and I'll give you two options: you can either do a group buy or post up in the misc vendors section... I think you have a good thing goin here, and you seem like you have good morals and are being, as much as the 5 speeders may not like it, you are being responsible...

Keep me posted...

Jake
 
tekdeus

tekdeus

Pronounced Tek-DAY-us
Jan 23, 2006
2,115
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0
Vancouver Canada
www.bitrontech.com
My Compustar remote starter/alarm works on my 5-speed Mk2 and it is virtually impossible to accidentally start it in gear. It has a safety feature built in: while the engine is running, you turn off the ignition. The alarm keeps the engine running while you step out of the car. When it senses that the door has been opened and closed, it shuts off the engine. It can then be remotely started since it is guaranteed to be in neutral. If you open the door before then, the remote start is disabled. Mine's been working great for 5 years, and nothing beats heating/defrosting on a cold morning, or pre-cooling with the A/C in the summer.
 
JoeC

JoeC

Banned
Jul 10, 2006
338
0
0
Vancouver, Washington
Im just trying to understand the pricing correctly. My bro bought a clifford system and had it installed in his car for like 500.. Is the $180 dollar price with the clifford alarm? Or is it just a harness?
 
OfnaRcR4

OfnaRcR4

Shea!
Oct 2, 2006
1,340
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kettering ohio
Turbo. Targa. Life. said:
Hey tek...you wanna explain to me how that guarantees it's in neutral? You could put it in first gear, let the clutch out, kill it and go on your merry little way. You go to remote start, BOOM car's in a lightpost.
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?? not by the say he said it..
 
JoeC

JoeC

Banned
Jul 10, 2006
338
0
0
Vancouver, Washington
Okay, so i figured these prices must be w/ the systems because I found clifford 3.5's for $180. My question though is.. If I bought my own system, how much would you charge me to just make a plug and play harness for the 3.5? or even the 1.5.
 
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toyo4life

Supramania Contributor
Oct 8, 2006
238
0
0
Manchester NJ
No he's right I'm familiar with the compustar system. The only way it theoretically start in gear is if someone reached in through an open window and forced it into gear. But once most customer's hear all that they have to inttialize it every shut down and that it cancels with every door opening they usually don't want to be bothered. Also the compustar is very expensive about 50% more at cost. I can get it But it is not for the novice installer. The install manual is like the size of a magazine and the program menus are the most complicated I've seen.
 
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toyo4life

Supramania Contributor
Oct 8, 2006
238
0
0
Manchester NJ
Its cheaper to just have me send you one complete. Its a PITA to just get the harnesses from directed. Also if I have the unit here I can program all your features and even plug into my car and set the tach rate for you.
 
JoeC

JoeC

Banned
Jul 10, 2006
338
0
0
Vancouver, Washington
toyo4life said:
Do you have a link or url for that the ones I've found for that price are B-stock or refurb.
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Sorry, I had a little wrong prices.

SST - $259.98
3.5 - $198 from personal seller, NOT vender.
1.5 - cant find any more

Viper 791XV - 189 new. (similar to 3.5)
 
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