REIGN's REBUILD! Its a beautiful thing... (THAT IS FOR SALE) =(

[Reign_Maker]

Chris, I was told not to use the AEM wideband because of the probe issue... I believe he recommended the FJO like you are saying...

How can I tell what version AEM I have? Lemme look at the box real quick... Ok, nothing on the box says Ver. "anything"... So... Where can I find out?

Also, important question: if I down load this AEM disk on my desk top computer, so I can "play" with it and read it and get familiar with it: can I still down load it onto a lap top? I knwo some discs are one time only... I would hate to have this on my desk top and not be able to ever use it again...

As for the boost solenoid and boost control... Sean was telling me about a way to set up a hi/lo boost switch... We didnt get into it in detail, because Im not there yet in the build to need it... But he said he'd walk me through it... So that way I wont need to get a boost controller... I can put the money towards a good wide band...

As far as tuning this thing, I highly doubt I'll be doing too much of that... I've got someone to do that for me, and I fully trust thier skill and experience... I just need to do abase map for start up and engine break in... Set it up so I cant go over 4000rpm until the motor is broken in or something... I dunno... If I said I wasnt nervous or a little scared, I'd be lying... This is territory I've never entered... So... yeah...

Zavs, I got 1000cc injectors coming... I just sold my 800s for $350... *steal of a deal!* Im pretty much setting my car up for anything... Basically, I want my only weak link to be the turbo... So when I feel like going for 900-1000hp the only thing I have to do is swap turbos... *and clutches, HA!* Maybe do an aggressive cam set up too... I've also gotta get a bigger radiator, and an exhaust... There are a handful of things I need... But its coming along...

 

[gixxer750]

I'm glad to have it running too. When you and justin finally get your up, we are going to get together down there.

 

[mcpcola]

Damn it Jake get your shit together man I am sick or reading you rebuild thread

 

[rakkasan]

I own your ass!! :biglaugh:

 

[Reign_Maker]

Damn it Jake get your shit together man I am sick or reading you rebuild thread

Just start at the last page, lol... :biglaugh:

Mark: as long as you have my parts, yes, you indeed own me, lol... :1zhelp:

 

[rakkasan]

Mark: as long as you have my parts, yes, you indeed own me, lol... :1zhelp:

LOL, I'll make as much progress as possible, I promise. Look on the bright side, you'll make a statement!

 

[flubyux2]

Yo Jake... the AEM version is in regards to the software as well. the CD itself will tell you what version you have. look on the CD case. the AEM software is not a one-time use thing. we downloaded my friends CD onto 4 different computers because we were trying several diff laptops and a desktop because we thought it was the USB port failing, not the converter. long story short; find an old laptop w/ a 9-pin serial port (4 pins top, 5 bottom). dont confuse it w/ the monitor plug which is 15 pin (3 offset rows of 5 pins, same plug shape as RS232/serial) Or, get the IO-Gear brand USB cable. it seems to be the only one that will turn off the voltage signal that USB ports create.

also, you can integrate the boost control into the AEM, thats no problem. as far as switching the boost controller back and forth, you have to use the i/o function on the AEM to dedicate unused pins on the harness for an analog output or input. you can use it for a 5v input to signal a boost switch. i forget where you can do it, but i know that you can basically use any left-over VSV pin to function as an analog input. you pick from a drop-down menu as to what pin you want to use. it has a pin # and name on the list so you can more-easily find the wire you need to tap into. thats why i havent removed my automatic trans wiring and emissions VSV's from my harness... i know ill probably need to use some of those pins for outputs or inputs (like staged injectors )

base maps are easy to make. you can basically punch in the stock injector size and karman map, copy the cells and then past them onto a new table/workmap. then, i remember scaling/stretching the values on the new map. there are quick functions on the maps where you can copy value for value, lke ctrl+C and ctrl+V. then if you right click you can open up a small box that says "calculate" and some other functions to set up rows/columns quickly and relatively accurately. its been quite some time since i did it, but youll know what im talking about when you see it. setting up the base map is relatively easy, but the accell pump tables and delta throttle tables and decel tables along w/ other seldom-mentioned tables are whats going to kill you. but, when you get them set up, your car will start, warm up, idle, stabilize and overall-perform lke stock. ive got a MKIV running on MSD 96lb/hr injectors, 43 static psi, 2 stock pumps w/ -6 lines, SP71GTQ-HO w/ FJO ntk sensor, 5 bar map and GM IAT to start within 2 cranks. it idles high at 1400rpm when cold, and slowly drops down to 950rpm at 172*F coolant temp. hell, i spent an hour simply setting up the IAC map. its time consuming but i LOVED every minute of it!!!

Chris, I was told not to use the AEM wideband because of the probe issue... I believe he recommended the FJO like you are saying...

How can I tell what version AEM I have? Lemme look at the box real quick... Ok, nothing on the box says Ver. "anything"... So... Where can I find out?

Also, important question: if I down load this AEM disk on my desk top computer, so I can "play" with it and read it and get familiar with it: can I still down load it onto a lap top? I knwo some discs are one time only... I would hate to have this on my desk top and not be able to ever use it again...

As for the boost solenoid and boost control... Sean was telling me about a way to set up a hi/lo boost switch... We didnt get into it in detail, because Im not there yet in the build to need it... But he said he'd walk me through it... So that way I wont need to get a boost controller... I can put the money towards a good wide band...

As far as tuning this thing, I highly doubt I'll be doing too much of that... I've got someone to do that for me, and I fully trust thier skill and experience... I just need to do abase map for start up and engine break in... Set it up so I cant go over 4000rpm until the motor is broken in or something... I dunno... If I said I wasnt nervous or a little scared, I'd be lying... This is territory I've never entered... So... yeah...

Zavs, I got 1000cc injectors coming... I just sold my 800s for $350... *steal of a deal!* Im pretty much setting my car up for anything... Basically, I want my only weak link to be the turbo... So when I feel like going for 900-1000hp the only thing I have to do is swap turbos... *and clutches, HA!* Maybe do an aggressive cam set up too... I've also gotta get a bigger radiator, and an exhaust... There are a handful of things I need... But its coming along...

 

[Reign_Maker]

Yo Jake... the AEM version is in regards to the software as well. the CD itself will tell you what version you have. look on the CD case. the AEM software is not a one-time use thing. we downloaded my friends CD onto 4 different computers because we were trying several diff laptops and a desktop because we thought it was the USB port failing, not the converter. long story short; find an old laptop w/ a 9-pin serial port (4 pins top, 5 bottom). dont confuse it w/ the monitor plug which is 15 pin (3 offset rows of 5 pins, same plug shape as RS232/serial) Or, get the IO-Gear brand USB cable. it seems to be the only one that will turn off the voltage signal that USB ports create.

also, you can integrate the boost control into the AEM, thats no problem. as far as switching the boost controller back and forth, you have to use the i/o function on the AEM to dedicate unused pins on the harness for an analog output or input. you can use it for a 5v input to signal a boost switch. i forget where you can do it, but i know that you can basically use any left-over VSV pin to function as an analog input. you pick from a drop-down menu as to what pin you want to use. it has a pin # and name on the list so you can more-easily find the wire you need to tap into. thats why i havent removed my automatic trans wiring and emissions VSV's from my harness... i know ill probably need to use some of those pins for outputs or inputs (like staged injectors )

base maps are easy to make. you can basically punch in the stock injector size and karman map, copy the cells and then past them onto a new table/workmap. then, i remember scaling/stretching the values on the new map. there are quick functions on the maps where you can copy value for value, lke ctrl+C and ctrl+V. then if you right click you can open up a small box that says "calculate" and some other functions to set up rows/columns quickly and relatively accurately. its been quite some time since i did it, but youll know what im talking about when you see it. setting up the base map is relatively easy, but the accell pump tables and delta throttle tables and decel tables along w/ other seldom-mentioned tables are whats going to kill you. but, when you get them set up, your car will start, warm up, idle, stabilize and overall-perform lke stock. ive got a MKIV running on MSD 96lb/hr injectors, 43 static psi, 2 stock pumps w/ -6 lines, SP71GTQ-HO w/ FJO ntk sensor, 5 bar map and GM IAT to start within 2 cranks. it idles high at 1400rpm when cold, and slowly drops down to 950rpm at 172*F coolant temp. hell, i spent an hour simply setting up the IAC map. its time consuming but i LOVED every minute of it!!!

*stares at WORDS WORDS WORDS*

Damn it Chris, PLEASE tell me it's not going to be as confusing as it sounds... I have a feeling my car will end up on a trailer to O'town...

I dunno, I guess I can just down load it on to my desk top and play with it, see if I can understand what you're talking about... I'll also head to AEMs site and see whats up... And Im gunna assume it's v1.11, because the P/N is 30-1110...

 

[IJ.]

Find a good tuner you trust to do the initial setup Jake!

The beauty and also the biggest danger/downside to a standalone is there are no real limits you can make it do anything! (even blow the motor to pieces if you get it wrong)

There is NO safe mode!

 

[Reign_Maker]

I found a good tuner, problem is, he's about 400 miles away...

 

[IJ.]

It's worth the trip Jake!

Unless it's a Pro Tuner that works with AEM's daily I wouldn't be taking "advice" from anyone as at the HP level you're shooting for it will selfdestruct in milliseconds.

Would even be worth flying him out!

 

[Bigzavs]

weve got a really badass AEM tuner where im at but im about 1400 miles from you, so that probably doesnt help you too much

 

[Reign_Maker]

Zavs, lol...

Ian, the guy that's gunna tune my set up is Darin from Titan... I feel very confident about his tuning ability, considering he tunes their drag cars...

 

[IJ.]

Arrange a local dyno and fly him out then Jake!

 

[Reign_Maker]

I might just ship my car down... It would cost me as much as a lap top, lol, but it might be worth it... I just want it done... Set it up for low boost street and high boost racing, and be done with it...

 

[rakkasan]

I might just ship my car down... It would cost me as much as a lap top, lol, but it might be worth it... I just want it done... Set it up for low boost street and high boost racing, and be done with it...

Jake,
Just drive the car for a little bit with the built in fuel map, then drive it down to Orlando to finish your break in period & have them tune it. Stay out of the boost & you should be fine. Of course, verify that with Darian first....

 

[IJ.]

I'm with Mark on this!

My earlier posts were assuming that you'd broken the motor in on a safe map as no one tunes on a brand new motor!

Arrange time on a local dyno once it's broken in and all is 100% then fly your guy out for the tune take him to dinner then drop him at the airport!

 

[Reign_Maker]

But there is no base map... I think the one that comes with it is for stock intake and 440cc injectors... I've got an 85mm intake with *soon to be* 1000cc injectors... I told you guys, LOTS of questions will be asked... Fuggin Chris just confused the SHIT out of me with that post... I swear to gawd, I feel like I need to go back to college and take a course on this or something... BLAH! Maybe it'll all be easy? Who knows... I might throw it up and figure it out easily... Who knows... Maybe Im just letting the "fear of not knowing" over whelm me...

 

[gixxer750]

just don't let it run too rich on break in.... thats not a good thing.

 

[IJ.]

Easy way around all this would be to break the motor in on a stock ECU/Injector package.