I finally saw one of the STI hubs and it is stepped. Inner step is 58mm for the rotor and outer is 56mm for the wheel. I just machined my hub down to 58mm and machined a small releif on the ouside diameter to clear the step on the inside of the rotor. I then bought. 73mm x 56mm aluminium hub centric rings for the rear wheels and opened up the ID to 58mm to fit the new hub. Now I can buy new rotors and not have to make any adjustments.
Rear BBK anyone?
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I knew I wasn't crazy :rofl:
Miata has a stepped hub as well, the area for the rotor to sit is larger than the face for the wheel. It simply looks tapered when it has rust on it though >.>
Haven't touched the Supra in a long time so wasn't sure if ours had the same setup.
Miata has a stepped hub as well, the area for the rotor to sit is larger than the face for the wheel. It simply looks tapered when it has rust on it though >.>
Haven't touched the Supra in a long time so wasn't sure if ours had the same setup.
is this setup tried and true and easy enough for an average person? if so wheres this write up at?
Def late to the party but is this setup better than the swapped MK4 rear TT calipers and rotors?
Well, I completed this but totally forgot to grind that backing plate down, and what an AWFUL noise that makes haha.
It's such a HUGE improvement though, especially with my Wilwood 13" front kit.
I used 3mm washers, Agency Power Evo lines, M10x1.5x40mm grade 10 bolts, and Stoptech rotors and pads.
It's such a HUGE improvement though, especially with my Wilwood 13" front kit.
I used 3mm washers, Agency Power Evo lines, M10x1.5x40mm grade 10 bolts, and Stoptech rotors and pads.
Dylan JZ;1969632 said:
What backing plate? and could you tell us where you ordered those parts from
? Thanks!Ordered the calipers off eBay for $250 shipped, and they were damn near brand new. The lines were ordered from MVP Motorsports by coincidence (shrug), bolts off eBay bolt supplier (American), random 3mm washers I found at my friend's shop, rotors and pads from AJUSA.com
The backing plate is right behind the e-brake assembly. The actual best way to avoid this is to have the lip in the rotors (the one that runs the plate) milled down about 2mm or flat to the rotor face.
The backing plate is right behind the e-brake assembly. The actual best way to avoid this is to have the lip in the rotors (the one that runs the plate) milled down about 2mm or flat to the rotor face.
Do you have pictures to what you're talking about? This would help me and anyone in the future of trying to install these calipers/ rotors. Thanks a bunch!
jt2ma71;1884038 said:
Just to be sure...
i will need a total of two 1ft lines and 4 of each fitting to have a complete set of brake lines for the rears? The items listed above is just for one side correct?
sylquebec;1788154 said:Total cost of my setup is (CAD):
Use EVO 9 2007 caliper (2): $250
Standard Raybestos 2005 WRX STI disc (2) : $140
Standard raybestos Mitsubichi EVO 9 brake pads (4) : $50
Bolt (4): $2.00
58 to 60mm bore machining (2) : $25
TOTAL : $467.00 tx and everything include ( no labor, i do it myself)
Here is some pics of my install + some tips :
Both MK3 and EVo bolt will not be correct to use. The evo bolt are not long enough. You need to buy 1/4-3/8 longer.
I use some 7mgte head bolt washer to space the caliper. They are perfect. So if you have some spare, go for it.
For the dust sheild, you only need to cut the 90 degre part of it (the lip). I apply paint where i cut to prevent rust.
I use the stainless brake line that come with my caliper, i think this is the stock one.
Oh, i did not mesure inside the disc for the hand brake, but it look like they are a little bit smaller. Reason is that my handbrake was in need of a little adjusting and now it is just perfect, 5-6 click make it perfect. So you may need a little adjusting depending of yours.
You can see the washer spacing the caliper
Sawblade fit (2-3mm space) But i will not run those anymore since i will be upgrading the front too. I test fit just for your info.
For those that don't want to go through the 41 pages like I just did. Really good info though.
Dylan JZ;1984296 said:
And if you don't machine the rotor, you machine a relief in the hub like you did?
I thought that would be possible originally, but it doesn't create enough clearance unfortunately.. Mine still made tons of noise when the hub deflected in a hard turns, thus machining the rotor is the only way.
That said, I LOVE my BBK setup with these rears. It is pretty much badass haha.
That said, I LOVE my BBK setup with these rears. It is pretty much badass haha.
As I recall, the prices were near double despite being new, and since the Evo IX isn't that old, I figured I didn't need new calipers. As luck would have it, mine were damn near brand new. Prices have since dropped a bit (~$50), but that's still $90 more than what I paid shipped.
But yeah, if you want to be sure you're getting good stuff, you can do that. Plus, the Centrics (only ones worth buying) come with posi-quiet pads loaded in which are probably almost the same pad that are in mine (Stoptec street pads). Centric makes the best OE rotors and pads IMO, and they make Stoptech which I love, so.
But yeah, if you want to be sure you're getting good stuff, you can do that. Plus, the Centrics (only ones worth buying) come with posi-quiet pads loaded in which are probably almost the same pad that are in mine (Stoptec street pads). Centric makes the best OE rotors and pads IMO, and they make Stoptech which I love, so.
Dylan JZ;1987982 said:
STI brembos are direct bolt ons to the FRS/BRZ. Only change that needs to be made is the bleeders.
So I did some cals against some diff setups to see what the break bias would be.
Check it out, I think i'm going to jump on this ban wagon as well, to even out my cobra breaks in the front and give my rear end a little more bite as it's pretty lacking
Check it out, I think i'm going to jump on this ban wagon as well, to even out my cobra breaks in the front and give my rear end a little more bite as it's pretty lacking