Rear BBK anyone?
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If you are milling material from your hubs, I would have to say that you'd need different hub centric adapter rings for your wheels as well, or else you'd have to depend on centering on the lugs, which isn't a great idea.
What? machining is only from the outer edge of the hub........ nothing at all to do with the center spigot that locates the wheel.
besides....... 90% of the guys on here seem to run aftermarket wheels in any case, which would require hub centric adapter rings to begin with, so i'm not sure what you are referring to?
besides....... 90% of the guys on here seem to run aftermarket wheels in any case, which would require hub centric adapter rings to begin with, so i'm not sure what you are referring to?
yhatzee89;1927890 said:Is that a major concern? Also, why better to machine the actual hub vs just the rotor?
Yeah I haveit on mine :/
^^ This, what is the main concern here? It seems that if one or the other isnt machined then there will be a small gap between the mating surface toward the center of the rotor/hub. However, the outside edge will still make contact. Just trying to figure out how not doing anything in this area poses as a safety issue.
Yes, now bolt them down 
Warped rotor would be the least it would effect it, worst could be cracking...
Warped rotor would be the least it would effect it, worst could be cracking...Poodles;1932504 said:Yes, now bolt them down
Ahh, that makes sense! It would seem that one could kill 2, maybe even 3 birds with 1 stone by designing a 2mm spacer with a .5mm step outer lip that would sit in between the hub and rotor. I wonder if this would cause any interference?
Edit: Racist Germans at ECS only sell their 2mm spacers for use on the autobahn!!!
Dbl Edit: Thinest spacer I could find with 5x114.3 bolt pattern is 3mm, wonder if that would bring the rotor out 1mm too far from the caliper?
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I wouldn't chance it with a spacer under the rotor... apart from the fact that you'll need to increase your caliper spacer (washer) correspondingly, the chance of getting runout at the disc braking surface is not worth it, and also changing (moving) the contact surface for the internal drum e-brake, albeit probably not enough to matter.
It would however eliminate the need to clearance the backing plate where it touches the rotor.......
If you're gonna bother with machining a spacer, you may as well just machine the rotor or hub though yeah?
BTW: your spacer wouldn't need a step..... it only has to sit inside of the stepped section of the rotor, that's plenty enough contact for the hub (no less than the donor Subaru Impreza has in any case)
It would however eliminate the need to clearance the backing plate where it touches the rotor.......
If you're gonna bother with machining a spacer, you may as well just machine the rotor or hub though yeah?
BTW: your spacer wouldn't need a step..... it only has to sit inside of the stepped section of the rotor, that's plenty enough contact for the hub (no less than the donor Subaru Impreza has in any case)
1jz-Rolla;1932750 said:
Hmm, I was under the impression that by bringing the rotor out 2mm it would do 3 things:
1) Eliminate the need to space the caliper outward by 2mm.
2) Eliminate the need to trim the backing plate
3) Eliminate the need to machine the step on rotor or the hub edge.
Explain the runout part as I'm unfamiliar with it.
EDIT: I figured out the run out. Basically the concern is if the spacer is a true 2mm all the way around, no more than .0002 of run out. BTW, I didn't realize they make rings to correct for run out that you stick in between the hub and rotor. I always assumed that you machine or replace the rotor.
http://youtu.be/SSxCNbjKi-0
I think the spacers are a good option pending any safety issues. You won't have to take the hub/bearings apart and you won't have to do extra machine work on every rotor replacement.
BTW, does anyone know the diameter inside of the step lip on the STi rotor?
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That's a cool flex-arm setup for the dial-guage in that video link, sure beats using the magnetic arm standard versions!
Sorry, didn't measure the diameter at the step in the rotor before mine went together.
I think you'll find that the caliper spacer thickness will have to be increased by the same amount as the thickness of your rotor spacer that you are planning to use, not the other way around.
I don't see any major issues with what you are planning to do, it makes some sense if you are not changing wheel bearings anyway (as I was) so saves extra dis-assembly.
Cheers
Sorry, didn't measure the diameter at the step in the rotor before mine went together.
I think you'll find that the caliper spacer thickness will have to be increased by the same amount as the thickness of your rotor spacer that you are planning to use, not the other way around.
I don't see any major issues with what you are planning to do, it makes some sense if you are not changing wheel bearings anyway (as I was) so saves extra dis-assembly.
Cheers
1jz-Rolla;1932803 said:
You are correct, the caliper spacing would have to correspond with the rotor. I was thinking of it backwards!
BTW, has anyone determined if the evo rotors will/won't work and why?
UPDATE, just found out the Evo's use a 168mm parking brake drum, STi 190mm...
Also, has anyone attempted to use MK4 Supra rotors with these calipers? From my understanding all that is needed for the rotor to work on a mk4 rear brake conversion is a hub centric ring.
Interesting Info: Looks like there's a 10mm difference in thickness...
05-07 STi Rear Rotor Dimensions
http://jamalb.net/pictures/brakespecs/dba_2655_cat.jpg
SupraTT Rear Rotor Dimensions
http://www.r1concepts.com/PartImage/12044103.jpg
2010-2013 Hyundai Genesis R-Spec: possible option with hub centric rings
http://www.stockwiseauto.com/produc...rce/googleps?gclid=CNuVoKO52rYCFYHe4Aodf3kAzQ
BTW, EVO 8-9 rear rotor thockness is 22mm, hence the 2mm spacers needed for the STi rotors to work w/evo calipers...
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If the STI hub hole is 58mm why are the hubcentric rings for thr same model 56.1mm?
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The hub is tapered, that's why the ID of the hub centric rings for wheels are smaller than the ID of the rotor. If it wasn't tapered, you'd never get the rotor off...
Well, it's either that or the simple thought that the hub centric rings are wrong...
I'm sure the measurement on the rotor is right though
I'm sure the measurement on the rotor is right though