Rear BBK anyone?

[IJ.]

If it were stickied......... It would need to be cut down a hell of a lot! A straightforward guide article would be much better.

Write it up post it in Tech and I'll sticky it

 

[spiller]

"Domestic" i.e. Holden forum
(I don't go anywhere near the AU Supra forums)

Ah, whole new ball game!

 

[jt2ma71]

I've only had about .25" all the way around machined and that's enough. The transition was also beveled to prevent any structural issues. I'm sure everything was done right

As jt2ma71 says here, the e-brake shoe has heaps of clearance - just pulled mine apart to check and there's 6mm to spare, so no need for machining there.



This is a good point, as the step goes the opposite way to what you'd expect...... who knows why its there? bloody Subaru....... I'd be wary of machining across the entire surface from the center to the outside edge of that face though, unless you also skimmed the wheel mounting face and both sides of the disc surface to ensure they all remain true - otherwise the runout could be a problem. I'm sure your machinist only took down that stepped section though to avoid this. Good info, thanks jt.

I've got some more pics and fitting points that i'll post up once they upload.

 

[1jz-Rolla]

I've only had about .25" all the way around machined and that's enough. The transition was also beveled to prevent any structural issues. I'm sure everything was done right

I have no doubt it was done right in your case mate, the level of your build leaves no corners cut i'm sure!


So the handbrake shoe adjuster access is an easy one to resolve: Just line up the old rotor against the new to mark the position of the hole, then use a drill-press in two stages - all the way through at 11mm, then partially at 18mm diameter, so that you can refit the stock plug afterwards. Although its not identical because of the taper of the 18mm drill-bit, it makes no difference as the rubber plug still seats at the top of the taper (as opposed to on the flat surface of the stock disc).

Of course you could do it "properly" in a milling machine, but its hardly necessary or worth the effort.


Cheers
Phil

 

[yhatzee89]

Guess what came in the mail today

 

[1jz-Rolla]

How did you find a set of 2nd hand evo calipers that don't have the clearcoat peeling off! Nice find

Is that a stepped section inside the friction surface of those fancy looking black discs? Hopefully this setup doesn't have a different swept pad area to the STi that the rotors were designed for......

 

[yhatzee89]

eBay bro lol.
And it's got a groove inside but it's even on both sides of it. What do you mean different swept pad area?

 

[spiller]

Phil how much did the machine shop slug you to bore out the hat?

 

[1jz-Rolla]

Nothing

 

[yhatzee89]

Well it looks like sandy is gonna be keeping me from my plans this week

 

[silverhornet]

What a masive read that was
Just so i can clear up as im a worrier.

I will need for this BBK;

EVo 5-9 Calipers (Rear)
New Bolts so 4 x m10 x 1.5 at least 36mm long?
4 x 2mm washer's to space the calipers outwards.
then the bit im stuck on, I need STI 05+ rotors? theres so many different verients in rotor, these thinner or thicker, vented and none. which type would i need?

Then to check all clearences, once ive got all the bits. install and done?

 

[1jz-Rolla]

Quick question: Has anyone fitted 16" wheels over these brakes?

Cheers
Phil

 

[mytmk3]

I fit rx7 16x8's but I'm not sure the guy may have said something about clearancing them to fit over his mk4 2pots but that may have been some one else

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Mo87NA]

I've got a set of Brembo EVO calipers and Centric power slotted rotors for sale is anyone is interested.

 

[SideWinderGX]

I fit rx7 16x8's

Same here, they fit nicely. Maybe a quarter of an inch of space left?

 

[1jz-Rolla]

Good to know about the 16's. Thanks guys.

 

[yhatzee89]

Lookin for a machine shop to bore these out this weekend

 

[1jz-Rolla]

Before you go to the machine shop, double check that your rotors don't have a lip on the hub-face like this:

If they do, consider machining a corresponding step in your hubs, or getting the machinist to skim the rotor (hub would be preferable)

 

[yhatzee89]

Is that a major concern? Also, why better to machine the actual hub vs just the rotor?

Yeah I haveit on mine :/

 

[1jz-Rolla]

Machining the hub just means you'll never have to do it again when you replace rotors. I'd also prefer to not remove any structural material from the rotor, but it really isn't much in this case anyway.

If you do machine the rotor instead, just ensure they only machine from that point outwards, It's too likely to induce runout if they swept the entire radius.

This is what I did to mine: