soapra;1243537 said:
Cool, thanks Jose. I'll pull the one off of the 1JZ. Also, I'm not happy with the front main seal, it's not perfectly seated. It looks like I had bent it just a hair. I'm going to replace it.
Rakkasans build, part III (project torque)
- Thread starter rakkasan
- Start date
Cool, thanks Jose. I'll pull the one off of the 1JZ. Also, I'm not happy with the front main seal, it's not perfectly seated. It looks like I had bent it just a hair. I'm going to replace it.
Ideas needed for harmonic balancer bolt. I can get to the bolt, but of course it just spins since the head has been removed. I don't want to jam a screwdriver in the flywheel, so I'm open to any other suggestions...
suprahero;1244600 said:
Thanks Jay, but I bought a new one today (the NAPA one that is supposed to be blow out resistant).
I'm thinking about using a chain wrench to stop the HB from turning.....
I bought PN 918562, I didn't realize that they sold different diameters. Seemed a little tight, but I wasn't really pushing it on because I wasn't ready to.
Where is the different diameters specified? Have a link for me to look at?
Where is the different diameters specified? Have a link for me to look at?
rakkasan;1244579 said:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45252
Got it on sale and used a 10% coupon, best $30 I've ever spent:icon_bigg
lookin good mark!
can u pm me what all uve needed to do this? hg, timing belt, etc?
ive got a chance to pick up a TT block for 150 so im considering 1.5
can u pm me what all uve needed to do this? hg, timing belt, etc?
ive got a chance to pick up a TT block for 150 so im considering 1.5
Bigzavs;1245188 said:
I'll just put it here for future use of other people :sarcasm:
- 2.5mm MHG. That gives me a calculated C/R of 8.8 - 8.9
- 1JZ gasket set
- 2JZ-GTE oil pump
- oil filter sandwich plate w/ oil line (length to be determined and fabbed)
- 1.5JZ water neck (from Aphxero)
- 2JZ timing belt
- 2JZ accessory belt
That's the 'needed' list. I also am putting on a new hydro pump, power steering pump, starter, had the bottom end and the head rebuilt, ARP head studs, 650cc top feed injectors, solid motor mounts, AVC-R boost controller replacing my current Profec E-01, 2JZ ATI harmonic balancer. Since I use a Stinger ECU, I want to eliminate as many vacuum lines and sensor wires from the harness.
H-O-P-E-F-U-L-L-Y with the added displacement and higher compression ratio, I'll have a shit ton more torque & a much lower RPM-full boost car. I'm not looking to run a lot of boost (15-17psi) to make a lot of power (500whp-ish), so 8.9:1 C/R should make the car a lot more fun to drive.
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IJ.;1245319 said:You need a 7M Mark they came with torque stock
You're funny IJ, but I can't turn back now. I've experienced the JZ series, and in my experience, it's a superior platform. Flame away...
IJ.;1245345 said:LOL just yanking your chain Mark
In hindsight I should have gone Jz from the start!
I knew you were just joking, I should have thrown a little smiley in there.
Did you just say that you should have gone JZ? :sarcasm:
meth session didn't turn out soo good Mark and Ian and anyone else reading this.
500rwhp and 46X torque @ 18.5 psi and more timing. For some reason, the fuel wouldn't change when I added it up top or took it away. I could change the fuel pressure and everything would change. It drove fine on the way home though after making fourty something pulls.
500rwhp and 46X torque @ 18.5 psi and more timing. For some reason, the fuel wouldn't change when I added it up top or took it away. I could change the fuel pressure and everything would change. It drove fine on the way home though after making fourty something pulls.
Been saying it for a few years nowrakkasan;1245489 said:
What do you mean "the fuel wouldn't change"?suprahero;1245861 said:
IJ.;1245866 said:
rakkasan;1245979 said:
I would add 10% more fuel in higher rpms as 17psi and it wouldn't change the afr's. Even taking some fuel out would leave the afr's practically the same. I've got it tuned to an 11.5 all the way to redline though so it's all good.
We kept increasing the timing one degree at a time and it kept increasing the horsepower about nine more horses. When I got there I was at 16* making 460rwhp, and now I"m at 20* making 500 @ about the same boost pressure. My last dyno had a max boost pressure of 18.5, but it was closer to 18 everywhere else. I was told to increase timing until you kept getting better results and then to back it down. My last increase was a half a degree and it still gained four more horses. I left it right there because I was sleepy and ready to go home. This was at ten thirty last night and I had a two hour drive home.
During the middle of the runs we kept running out of fuel and we then found out that I was only getting 9.1volts to the injectors. We removed everything out of the back and wired in some larger wires directly to my battery with a relay and now I'm getting the 12 volts needed. The pumps are twice as loud now. Sorry for the long post and for hijacing your thread Mark.
where is the oil sending unit on the 2jzge? if its on the exhaust side why not just tee off of that for the oil feed instead of using a sandwhich plate and long as line from the other side of the engine?
williamb82;1246010 said:
It's on the intake side behind the a/c comp, either way you have to run a long line either through the timing cover where the wiring goes through or around the back of the block.