Race Ready 7M
- Thread starter Van
- Start date
hey did you ever check out the prices at mccords vancouver toyota? the are pretty good, tell them your a member of celicasupra.com and they give you a freaking good discount. By the way what did m&b charge you for the block work and balancing, im probable gonna be taking my next build over there so im curious. great build by the way, id wanna see your car in person some day.
Hi Dave,thedave925;1634694 said:I don't buy that the cam cover leak can make its way against gravity into the CPS case past the cover and its seal.
The CPS casing also has a bleeder hole at the bottom to let out oil build up which prevents flooding the unit.
Is there a burnt heavy oil deposit around #1 exhaust runner? Its not always cam cover/ CPS o-ring leaks that do that, as I've found previously on my old engine.
Other than that, I see good news
What was the reason behind making sure the TPS is correct?
You're probably right on the cam cover leak as cause... Two weeks ago I had the timing belt, idler wheel, pivot pin, come out of its hole, leak oil all over then sprayed all over the place with the aid of the fan. Interesting how I've put that mess out of my mind. I had to purchase a new timing belt idler wheel pivot pin, crank timing gear, timing belt and a quart of oil. That was a five hour job!
The CPS O ring is three months old.
The CPS dust cover and seal need replacing: cover has 1/4 inch piece missing near the front most fastner, and the seal is brittle. The oil collected around the bottom wire to the coil pick-up, but the rest of the housing is dry.
The TPS was not on my check list, it was not set correctly.
I just finished my road test and the Supra tacks all the way to 6750 w/o breaking up, but if I press it to the floor, to quickly pass another driver, I get a stumble. So, it's time to let the experts fix this. Van
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Max,max-89supra(t);1634710 said:
I was charged $60/hour. I hear their prices are going up. You may want to get that done sooner rather than later. You can ask them to quote you a price for the job too. They built the head and the bottom end as well. They do great work! Van
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Hey Van, if you need a CPS send me a PM w/ your address. I have one off of my '91 that was working fine. I bought a new one for my current build along with a billet cover from AZP so I also have the new cover. Also have the stock ECU if you still need one.
-Fred
-Fred
Hi gsxr,gsxr141;1634745 said:
It's a manual rack, now. :naughty: Van
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Hi Fred,SWD Fredester 3;1634723 said:
I'll keep those in mind... Van
Update on the "stumble": Mine turned out to be caused by a small "U" shaped crack in the ceramic insulator on a spark plug, that only caused "break-up" under load. They replaced the bad plug, now the "Race Ready 7M" works better than stock! The plug that had the flaw was new. So check not only the gap but the insulator; :3d_frown: who knew?
As the car stands now, the tuner set the boost at 10psi, and my numbers are almost the same as before the build when I ran 12 psi, on 440cc injectors The new set-up 550/Lexus and 2JZ fuel pump, gave me the following #'s: 278/297; old 273/290 at the wheels. The stock TCCS fuel maps are also not helping me this time.
The old set-up had a ECU that had been chiped so it matched the old 50trim CT26 it had. I fried that nice ECU when I connected the ground wires to battery positive (I swear they looked like they belonged there); the 50trim was old/worn out. I replaced it wih a newer CT26 that is in much better shape, so it may explain the better numbers on less boost [I bet it is the higher compression ratio: 9.4:1].
Too much fuel up top and a leaner condition around 3300 RPMs are the reasons he cited for setting the car up as he did.
His initial solution is a fuel computer.
The motor wants to rev freely, but the CT26 is a restriction. Also the dyno tune showed the 7M is using too much fuel up top, so that it too reduces the power this motor can easily make.
So, now the 7M will need a fuel computer, and I'm leaning toward a MAFT Pro to run this 7M in speed density.
I'm also leaning toward a new turbo, that will bolt on the stock exhaust manifold, i.e, those from SupraSport or Hybrid Motorsports.
Van
As the car stands now, the tuner set the boost at 10psi, and my numbers are almost the same as before the build when I ran 12 psi, on 440cc injectors The new set-up 550/Lexus and 2JZ fuel pump, gave me the following #'s: 278/297; old 273/290 at the wheels. The stock TCCS fuel maps are also not helping me this time.
The old set-up had a ECU that had been chiped so it matched the old 50trim CT26 it had. I fried that nice ECU when I connected the ground wires to battery positive (I swear they looked like they belonged there); the 50trim was old/worn out. I replaced it wih a newer CT26 that is in much better shape, so it may explain the better numbers on less boost [I bet it is the higher compression ratio: 9.4:1].
Too much fuel up top and a leaner condition around 3300 RPMs are the reasons he cited for setting the car up as he did.
His initial solution is a fuel computer.
The motor wants to rev freely, but the CT26 is a restriction. Also the dyno tune showed the 7M is using too much fuel up top, so that it too reduces the power this motor can easily make.
So, now the 7M will need a fuel computer, and I'm leaning toward a MAFT Pro to run this 7M in speed density.
I'm also leaning toward a new turbo, that will bolt on the stock exhaust manifold, i.e, those from SupraSport or Hybrid Motorsports.
Van
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Awesome Van!
The Maft is as close to a standalone as you're going to get in a Piggyback setup. I can vouch for the stability of the Maft. The Timing Control is still being tweeked; but, the rest of it is solid.
What kind of power did you make? Can you post up a dyno sheet? I'd love to see the power curve of your setup.
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Thanks for adding your numbers to the above post! There's nothing at all wrong with being safe. Kudos to your tuner for that decision.
Yeah...you're ready for a fuel computer...
The Maft is as close to a standalone as you're going to get in a Piggyback setup. I can vouch for the stability of the Maft. The Timing Control is still being tweeked; but, the rest of it is solid.
What kind of power did you make? Can you post up a dyno sheet? I'd love to see the power curve of your setup.
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Thanks for adding your numbers to the above post! There's nothing at all wrong with being safe. Kudos to your tuner for that decision.
Yeah...you're ready for a fuel computer...
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That is great news. You know, I've had my eye on this build since last year right??? I'm glad your plan is panning out, road racing is very attractive.
I'm running something similar to a jt70 (notrice.com) that was very impressive for wastegate boost to redline. Throttle response actually went up with the more open housing, although i didn't see full boost until 4200. The ct26 really is a bottle neck anything higher than 4500.
Maft pro is a great work around against boost cut, and is fairly simple to install, with many perks.
I'm running something similar to a jt70 (notrice.com) that was very impressive for wastegate boost to redline. Throttle response actually went up with the more open housing, although i didn't see full boost until 4200. The ct26 really is a bottle neck anything higher than 4500.
Maft pro is a great work around against boost cut, and is fairly simple to install, with many perks.
Van: I forgot to ask what your findings were by tuning the cams. Or did they even get that far with the tune?
CajunKenny;1644245 said:
Hi CajunKenny. No, ran out of time and $$$. All that was done was a base tune, and setting the boost at 10psi (after they spent almost an hour sorting out the misfire). I need to purchase a fuel controller, and that isn't in the budget at present.
Van
i just got a used AFC NEO; have to get the Supra to Forged Performance to finish the tune. Then the 7M should be golden. Van
So, now it's time to choose a new turbo. I had the bottom end built to take 700 Lb Ft of torque, but I don't want to break any of the stock driveline parts. Here is the rundown of the upgraded parts, or new stock parts. My set-up: New, 7MGTE, Yellow plug engine wire harness, new Denso 2JZtt FP (12v mod) through new wire and relay, new Denso 550cc inj, new 7MGTE FP regulator and damper, J-tube deleted as of 1-7-11.
Used, Lex/MAF w/SONIC screw, Blitz electronic, dual SBC, AFC NEO, and JDM TCCS ECU.
I don't want to break any of this: CR is 9.4:1; Fully built, forged bottom end (Eagle rods, Probe Pistons), new main caps, ARP mains and rod fasteners, torque plated, and plateau brushed over bore (20 over), new MLS gasket, port/polish, fully radiused valve seats. Extensive exhaust port work, nickel/bronze valve guides. Stock valves and cams, w/100# Comp springs. Lightened 6M crank (bull nosed and radiused and balanced with Fidanza 11 Lb flywheel and stock pressure plate and 7MGTE clutch. Stock intercooler, LIPP hard pipes. Five year old Jaws gear and axle one piece Alum DS, Jaws rebuilt R154 and 391 LSD.
I'm looking for usable power between 3500- 5800RPMs. Know of a turbo that can do the job?
Thanks.
Van
Thanks. Van
Used, Lex/MAF w/SONIC screw, Blitz electronic, dual SBC, AFC NEO, and JDM TCCS ECU.
I don't want to break any of this: CR is 9.4:1; Fully built, forged bottom end (Eagle rods, Probe Pistons), new main caps, ARP mains and rod fasteners, torque plated, and plateau brushed over bore (20 over), new MLS gasket, port/polish, fully radiused valve seats. Extensive exhaust port work, nickel/bronze valve guides. Stock valves and cams, w/100# Comp springs. Lightened 6M crank (bull nosed and radiused and balanced with Fidanza 11 Lb flywheel and stock pressure plate and 7MGTE clutch. Stock intercooler, LIPP hard pipes. Five year old Jaws gear and axle one piece Alum DS, Jaws rebuilt R154 and 391 LSD.
I'm looking for usable power between 3500- 5800RPMs. Know of a turbo that can do the job?
Thanks.
Van
Thanks. Van
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1/6/11 I took the Supra to VIP Performance (Portland), to get the AFC NEO wired in and the JDM TCCS ECU hooked up. Today they ran the car on the Dyno and the car was leaning out, AFRs going from 11.3 to 12.7, going into WOT then w/i 1000RPMs (2500 -3500RPMs) AFRs would go back down, heading toward 11.3. This happened three times during the test. Adjusting the AFC had no effect.
The technition stated he has seen this happen, when there is a restriction in the fuel system. My FP is running 47-50psi during cruse and goes up to 90psi, during testing of the FP in the car. The high pressure side works well, he thinks there is a restriction in the return side. I read that the J-tube is a restriction, is that true?
The technition stated he has seen this happen, when there is a restriction in the fuel system. My FP is running 47-50psi during cruse and goes up to 90psi, during testing of the FP in the car. The high pressure side works well, he thinks there is a restriction in the return side. I read that the J-tube is a restriction, is that true?
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Yes, you should not run the J-tube with a upgraded fuel pump. The J-Tube create a pressure in the return line incase your fuel pressure regulator fails but you will still get home. Remove it and you will see.
So, by-passing the J-tube will do what, stop the lean condition? If so, why does it stop a lean condition?
Thanks.
Van
Thanks.
Van
What are you using for coil packs, stock coil packs, 2JZ-GE VVTi, or 2JZ-GTE coils?
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If you have a lean spot, you should take care of it. You have to start off somewhere, right now, your J-Tube is one problem. Get the DriftMotion AFPR kit and the fuel pulsation dampner bypass line, set the fuel pressure according to the TSRM if you are on stock injectors or the pressure the aftermarket injector recommends.
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I just read your modifications. I highly recommend you getting off the stock ECU and piggyback and getting the AEM that is for sale in the classified section.
It is for your year harness and you will have better control over the engine. I believe you problem is a tuning problem if it still exist after fixing the J-Tube.
Take a look here,
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?135558-FS-AEM-for-87-88-7mgte
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Van;1658178 said:
If you have a lean spot, you should take care of it. You have to start off somewhere, right now, your J-Tube is one problem. Get the DriftMotion AFPR kit and the fuel pulsation dampner bypass line, set the fuel pressure according to the TSRM if you are on stock injectors or the pressure the aftermarket injector recommends.
---------- Post added at 03:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:52 AM ----------
I just read your modifications. I highly recommend you getting off the stock ECU and piggyback and getting the AEM that is for sale in the classified section.
It is for your year harness and you will have better control over the engine. I believe you problem is a tuning problem if it still exist after fixing the J-Tube.
Take a look here,
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?135558-FS-AEM-for-87-88-7mgte
Well, the J-tube is a restriction that no longer serves a purpose, so off it goes. Will need to purchase an adjustable FPR too. Hopefully, these will solve the lean condition going into boost and through 2500-3500RPMs. We'll see... Keep 'ya posted. Van