Project Git 'er done!: Stages 1, 2…now 3.

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
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Atlanta
Today I received my 4" 30 degree intake pipe.

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So I cut it:

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And I test-fit it with the AEM dryflow filter:

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Thankfully, the 30dgree angle is perfect for the space I have. Next, I have to get the fab shop to tig in the power steering idle-up nipple to the underside. Then I'll polish it and call it done.

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supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
4,238
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Atlanta
Today, I went to the local Caffeine&Octane show around 8am, just to drool over a couple hundred cars.
When I got home with a slight bit more motivation, I decided to hammer out the two cuts in my passenger floorboard.

Before:

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After:

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Good enough to allow me to weld it back together.
Once I had done that, I headed over to Home Depot and rented a pressure washer.
While I have the exhaust out(hopefully for the last time), I wanted to degrease the entire underside prior to undercoating it, so I decided to kill two birds with one stone.
Spent three hours cleaning my driveway and front steps, then rolled the Supra out of the garage and degreased the underside. Also, I washed all of the dust and dead bugs off the car. Next, I will undercoat, and reinstall the exhaust.
 

supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
4,238
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Atlanta
Not much time to do anything today, but I did get the vac. nipple welded onto the intake pipe at the fab shop.
then I polished the pipe, ordered some clamps for it, and turned off the garage lights. More work next week.

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supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
4,238
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No room to route a 4" pipe out to colder air.
I might entertain(later) getting a vented headlight cover, but i'm not a big fan of how they look.
 

supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
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So, I just ordered a Lotek 2-gauge A-pillar , because I finally have my gauge plans figured out. As it turns out, I think it'll simplify some of my other components as well.

Wideband unit:

PLX DM-6 touchscreen display, with AFR sensor unit:

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The DM-6 is a touchscreen display, with multiple options for viewing the AFR data. The sensor unit itself uses a Bosch LSU 4.2 O2 sensor.
It has both a wideband analog, and narrowband analog output, so it can take the place of the stock O2 sensor, as well as supplying the MAFT pro with wideband info.

Boost gauge:
SM-Vac/Boost sensor unit, to be connected to a second DM-6 display.

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This unit will supply the 2nd DM-6 display with vac and boost info, and since it has an additional analog output that matches the voltage output of a GM 3-bar map sensor, It will replace the one I have right now, and supply that info to the MAFT pro as well. Each sensor module is about 3"x2"x1.5", so they take up no space.
Since the sensor units can daisychain together, I could just buy one display and switch between the two systems, but I'm sure I'd rather see both vac/boost AND AFR's displayed simultaneously.

Is anyone else already using these systems? And if so, what do you guys think of it?
 

supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
4,238
39
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Atlanta
Just bought 25sq. Ft. Of GTmat quadro sound deadening material.
I've decided to remove the rest of the oem floor material, so i can verify that there's no corrosion under there.
Also, there should be enough to apply to the hatch floor area as well.
 

supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
4,238
39
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Atlanta
Got the driver's side floor finished with some new deadener mat, and I'll finish the passenger side tomorrow.
Also going to undercoat the car while it's out of the garage. Today I just ordered a few small electrical parts, and tied a couple of grounds together.

Amplifier and fuel pump grounds:

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Received my Lotek 2-gauge Apillar in the mail yesterday, Looks like they matched the interior color perfectly.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,238
39
48
Atlanta
Did a few things today.
After raking the yard, and replacing the fuel lines in my leaf blower, I pulled the car out of the garage, to finish the sound proofing.

After removing the oem panels:

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After installing the GTmat:

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This stuff is designed with a sandwich of aluminum heat shield, as well as 1/4" foam, all bonded together with 2 layers of butyl. It reduces resonance, but not necessarily Db's. When I order the carpet, I plan to add optional mass backing to it, along with standard jute padding. Should reduce noise quite a bit.
PS- If anyone ever needs to remove the original oem ashpalt pads, I highly recommend using a deadblow hammer. You smack the panels all around till you hear a slight pitch change. That'll let you know that the adhesive has released. Made it ALOT easier, barely any scraping at all.

After I was done, I touched up the undercoating on the tranny tunnel. Next, I playerd with the rear hatch floor some more. I FINALLY found a purpose for the 2 sq. yards of carbon fiber pattern vinyl that I ordered years ago. I Cut some to shape, and used adhesive to bond it onto the underside of the hatch floor, where I will be mounting all of my stereo equipment. Pics on that to follow soon.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,238
39
48
Atlanta
Post #517.
I used a late model Camry resevoir, and placed it directly behind the passenger headlight.

Just ordered DM-6/AFR gen 3 combo, released by PLX yesterday, as well as a second DM-6 along with the vac/boost sensor.

Just *slightly* more broke now...
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,238
39
48
Atlanta
Today, I added a lower O2 sensor bung to the dp. I learned too late, that the wideband sensor needs to be about 2ft. from the turbo, if I want it to survive.
Also, I heat-wrapped the exhaust just prior to the cat, to insure a longer life for the speedo cable as well. And lastly, I finished surfacing my hatch floor.
Came out pretty good, and is now ready for the stereo equipment.

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Mar 30, 2005
264
2
16
Florida
Grandavi;1976497 said:
Love that cargo cover (w/e its actually called) Much better than the plywood one. What material did you run with? I know you mentioned it a bit farther back..

Looks like it's vinyl wrapped plywood. Lots of love went into that. Looks awesome.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,238
39
48
Atlanta
That is correct.
Its still plywood, but it's birch, and twice as thick. I moved the hinge from over to under, to raise it about a 1/2 inch as well. Wasn't sure how much room i'd need for the cap, amp, etc.