Possible new performance parts!

[TurboStreetCar]

FYI: a 4.10 clutch style rear end is easy by taking the ring gear off the torsen and putting it on the clutch style (or getting the N/A sport models).

agreed about brakes, MK3's could definatly use some help.

So there is a factory clutch type 4.10 diff? its the n/a sport model or whatever it was?

 

[mmarkk]

agreed about brakes, MK3's could definatly use some help.

So there is a factory clutch type 4.10 diff? its the n/a sport model or whatever it was?

Poodles is saying you can take the ring gear from the torsen 4.1 and put it in the stock mk3 clutch diff
or get the n/a clutch diff which is 4.3

 

[TurboStreetCar]

ahhh the 4.3 forgot about that, thats what i was thinking the 4 series gear was in the clutch type diff.

 

[flubyux2]

those Upper control arms that HPF sells are original JIC units imported from japan... thats why they are so goddamn expensive. plus, who gives a shit about them... i want to get rid of the Stamped-steel LOWER control arms. those things suck. i actually like the aluminum uppers... it makes me think toyota R&D wasnt Completely sleeping at the drawing table.

btw, one hard 80-0 stop can and probably WILL fade the stock brakes. i can almost guarantee that youll smell the pads. now, imagine if you were actually TRYING to go fast and slow down from 120 or 140.

 

[honestabe]

btw, one hard 80-0 stop can and probably WILL fade the stock brakes. i can almost guarantee that youll smell the pads.

I couldn't agree more. I hit brake fade at 40 MPH when trying to slow down from 80. I turned the corner of an intersection at 35 because of that. Luckily the car hugged the road.

Adam

 

[Poodles]

sorry I'm so harsh, but I've first hand seen how horribly bad the MKIII brakes are...

good brake fluid DOES help, but there simply isn't enough mass to keep the heat out of the fluid

 

[Rajunz]

What did you have in mind, something like this, a complete bolt in subframe? These are being built for older Mopars, but for $3,200 you get it all, Coilovers, rack, control arms, etc.

http://www.magnumforce.com/store/de...ndID=11&Category=&SubCategory=&Search=&Page=2

 

[Enraged]

I like the idea of the lower a-arms. I've been looking at locost cars (lotus super 7 replicas) and lots of those have handmade tubular control arms, with no problems. The primary concern for me would be strength of the tubular arms, but that comes down to the design.

 

[Poodles]

hell, you could actually design the control arms to give correct alignment when lowered as well...

not that our cars really suffer from that quirk, but you can do a hell of a lot...

 

[flubyux2]

i highly doubt strenth would be an issue w/ Tubular lower control arms. thats what Big-body classic cars are restored/modded with. Chevelles, Novas, Biscaynes, Impalas, Bel-Airs, etc... Take a look thru the Summit racing catalog and youll see alot of tubular control arms that will support these 4000lbs cars, especially considering people put Air rides, hydraulics and higher-rate lowering springs.

i think anyone with chassis-building experience would be able to assemble a lower control arm for us made from chromoly.

 

[arz]

When I asked arz about it, he basically said that his kit was not meant to be used on a daily driven car. My car gets even worse treatment; it sits in a garage and gets driven once in four blue moons. I just think that in *my* situation, the pistons will eventually rust and seize from lack of use. That's why I want a kit with dust boots.

^^^I never said anything of the sort.^^^ What I said is: "If your going to drive thru a Chicago winter on pot holed streets these probably arent the brakes for you." and its not because of anything related to function. They will function fine, hell you could use them for Rally racing thru muddy frozen mountain roads. They just wont look so shiny afterwards. Heres the quote: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=356423&postcount=31
When I say they are not for Daily drivers, I mean soccer moms, that get their oil changed at quickie lube and the like. I personally try not to drive mine in the rain, and thats only cause it almost never rains here and because, I have plenty of extra cars. I drive the piss out of mine and trust me no daily driving would ever tax these brakes.

You don't need a BBK on the street. if you have lots of horsepower and you are fading high quality pads on the street than you are driving way too hard and you probably will get a ticket eventually.

^^^This is laughable. You sir have obviously never doubled the HP of any vehicle.^^^
read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50351

sorry to pollute this thread, but wilwood makes CHEAP calipers, and they make FANTASTIC FORGED LIGHTWEIGHT calipers...

arz uses the second option, he COULD use cheaper components, but why would you want to?

dust boots on the calipers are NOT needed, wilwood has been making them like that for years without any issues... (read the front brakes thread where I scanned in from a magazine and their comments...)

Just because ARZ has the kits already doesn't mean someone else can't make the SAME kit cheaper. Not only that, more vendors = more competition = lower prices....

Sheesh.... and you all wonder why we have nothing for these cars and complain when everything is so exspensive.

^ Like I said before.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ckanderson
Ahhhhh ignorance.....

Don't see the prices getting much lower on something like that than they are... I'm sure Andy isn't getting much profit from it if you consider the price of machining, developement time, and price of goods...

^^^These guys get it^^^

SS5K
Most people dont give any consideration to the fact that I have spent countless hours designing, prototyping, testing and manufacturing these items. Not to mention, selling, stocking, shipping and answering questions. This is an incredible amount of work, and it has yet to pay off, other than recognition from those that get it. I have so many more cool ideas coming your way, I wish I had enough hours in the day.

...But i agree 100%, its hard to make high-$$, extreme parts for these cars. The market just isn't there...The ones that make the expensive stuff work probably don't make much $ and do it more for the love of the car/community. Its a shame in a way.

^^^This is very true^^^

all you need is to take a single block of T6-6061 aluminum and carve it to bolt onto the stock MK3 hub and set it up for SL6R wilwood calipers. Another SM member here has/had the cad files to do this and offered to sell me sets of these adaptors for $120/set. I regret not buying 3 sets on the spot... Chris, if you read this, sell me some adaptors!

This is exactly what some people think. Then the dud that torques the Pipe thread fitting down until there are no threads showing on the caliper and strips out the caliper, calls and wants you to fix it. Or some guy uses parallel (metric) thread from his Goodridge brake lines on the tapered (SAE) threads in the Wilwood caliper body. Or the guy goes and gets the finest Home depot (grade 5 galvanized) fasteners he can find to install the calipers and bracket. There are dozens of reasons I dont sell bits and pieces. If you added up all the little pieces that come in my kit you would see that I dont make a killing and you really are getting an awesome deal on my brakes. Ask any of my customers.

...i think anyone with chassis-building experience would be able to assemble a lower control arm for us made from chromoly.

^^^What about billet!?!?!^^^:naughty:

Those that know me know those are more than just words. Shusssssssh dont tell anyone....

 

[Poodles]

here's what I posted a while back to back up arz on the wilwood's being "DD worthy"

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=508191&postcount=237

 

[flubyux2]

lol... billet would be cost prohibitive for me i think. a single block is a few thousand bucks, right?

i personally wouldnt mind having billet 6061 SL6R caliper adapters. steel would be an upgrade but im not 100% sure its absolutely necessary. alot of disc brake conversion kits utilize aluminum caliper brackets dont they?

i think BBK's available in different levels of completeness would be a good thing. i mean, i have alot of race shops in my area so i can get wilwoods with a season's worth of use for a fair price. i have several fastener specialty places where i can get 10.9 or grade 8 bolts which ought to suffice. in addition, i have a hydraulic hose suppler acquaintence who will make me DOT-approved brake lines with any fitting, any length (and several color dust jackets ) and can supply me with the right fittings.

i mean, if YOU can knock out some SL6R caliper brackets and necessary hardware, youll have a customer


btw, People shouldnt be afraid of Dustboot-less calipers. it doesnt make them junk. it just means you have to do preventative maintenance, like rebuilding the calipers once a season/year.

 

[arz]

i mean, if YOU can knock out some SL6R caliper brackets and necessary hardware, youll have a customer

Ok say I do that, then you go get your SL6R's used. BTW which SL6R's are you planning on getting?

1. Front mount or rear mount? Do you know the difference?
2. Which width rotor? 1.25? 1.00? or .81?
3. Standard Pistons or Thermal Locks?
4. Narrow outboard Piston body or standard?
5. What pads do these used Calipers have?
6. Why do you think what ever race team discarded them decided to do so?
7. What rotors were you planning on using?
8. What diameter?
9. What bolt circle?
10. Are they Balanced? Used? New?
11. What makes you think I want any part of the blame when this project goes horribly wrong.

I will never sell bits and pieces to people that want to build their own kits. There are far to many variables, for you to blame on me that I have no control of.

Go get quotes from all of your favorite inside deals at all of your local race shops, add up the total of all these pieces and you will probably be within few bucks of my total. Plus you will install these in one afternoon without having to run to the store once. They will work perfectly from the first application of the brake pedal and if you have any problems what so ever, I will make it right.

Hell ask your local shops what they think of the price for my kit and what it includes?

Bits and pieces are not in my best interest. Why do you think you cant find Jim King kits anymore?

 

[TurboStreetCar]

To keep the off-topicness of ARZ's brakes going, just a quick one, would the pistons not having dust boots make the pistons ever seize/malfunction/whatever you would like to call it, do to corrosion? i am only curious because im planning purchase and i live in New York, anything that CAN rust, WILL rust here.....

 

[arz]

No, the Calipers are anodized aluminum and the pistons are Stainless steel. Dust boots will provide no benifit.

I grew up in Michigan and I cant imagine a more harsh environment than driving thru a Michigan winter. I know how stuff rusts its amazing how fast it happens. Just like anything else if you take care of it it will last.

Yea this is kind of OT sorry.

Back to our regularly scheduled.....thread

 

[flubyux2]

rear mounted, standard piston, 1.25" thickness, 12.75"-13.25" diameter, corvette gran sport rotors with redrilled lug pattern, off-the-shelf rotors of course. i assume you think you are talking to a person who doesnt know the way responsibility works in terms of aftermarket parts.

if my problems cannot coincide w/ the magnusson-moss act, then you are free and clear. im not irrational.

 

[arz]

You seem 100% responsible and thoroughly knowledgeable!!! Its not people like you Im worried about.........much.

1. Did you realize that a .0625 change in rotor diameter would require me designing a different Caliper Bracket?!?!
2. Also any change in rotor offset would also require a different bracket.
3. How many caliper brackets to you expect me to design?
4. BTW what is the rotor offset of those re-drilled lug pattern rotors???
5. Do you realize my rotors are hubcentric with a .006 run out?
6. Are your re-drilled rotors hubcentric?
7. Do you realize my kits are designed to miss the rotor by .060 inches +/- .010 and the center hole has a .0015 tolerance

12.75"-13.25" diameter,

Do you plan on shimming the caliper that quarter inch tolerance zone you gave me?

Dont waste your key strokes I will never sell pieces there are way too many variables.

BTW I already have a caliper bracket designed for the SL6R and a 14.25 diameter rotor. My 14 inch front kit will be released very shortly.

The magnusson-moss act, (if Im not mistaken) is designed to protect the consumer more often than the supplier/seller.

Here, I just Wiki'ed it
QUOTE:
The statute is remedial in nature and is intended to protect consumers from deceptive warranty practices. Consumer products are not required to have warranties, but if one is given, it must comply with the Magnuson-Moss Act.


ASK ANYONE OF MY CUSTOMERS IF THEY THINK I CUT ANY CORNERS OR IF THEY WOULD HAVE DONE SOMETHING DIFFERENT. The kits really are very well thought out.

 

[Poodles]

since people don't like the links and ignore them...

arz, thought you would be interested in this tidbit from the March issue of Sport Compact Car. Got a wide picture, and a shot fo the text only. Hope this helps to persuade people that Wilwood makes good stuff. On a side note though, they say that Wilwoods are lighter and cheaper than Stoptech's or Brembo's calipers, so they seem to flex under hard braking. Still, over the stock brake's crappy slides that often sieze of wear causing uneven wear...

 

[TurboStreetCar]

(more offtopic) those willwoods flex under braking? i assume its not enough to cause issues?