plugs toast after less than 10 miles?!?!?!?
- Thread starter bluedragon17
- Start date
The GTE came from the factory with platinum plugs. I'd comment further but this thread is way beyond saving....
thanks for the back up JJ and its not that bad yet is it??? well anyways new regulator put on today no changes 2 new coolant temp sensors no changes FPR vac line directly into tb vac port no change.............I also ran my problem by aaron from DriftMotion and from what he was saying i realized a couple things that might need to be addressed on my car also.........
havent checked it again yet will try that tonight and report back if i get the same results as before what is it?? i have a vac line tied directly into the TB now also
ok just did the test at idle with no vacuum line attached pressure is at 39psi and with motor off and the plugs jumpered its at 39psi with vac its at 31 psi and when i shut it off pressure immediately drops to 11psi and then slowly goes down to zero within seven seconds of the key being turned off
I'm running NGK G force plugs myself and I have no problems with my 7M-GTE.
Have you ever checked the knock sensors? Those things make it all lean and run like crap if they go bad. Is the check engine light on?
Have you ever checked the knock sensors? Those things make it all lean and run like crap if they go bad. Is the check engine light on?
no check engine both are re-wired with the sogi mod everything runs and drives and revs fine but once a load is applied i hit massive fuel cut i have two friends to confirm this. Both of them know what fuel cut is and feels like both rode in my car and there both like yep thats fuel cut...........
Alright, I'll cut you some slack 
Pressure is a tad on the high side but working. Fuel pressure with the line off is always going to be the same with or without the engine running. The rest pressure is bad though. You've got an internal or external leak somewhere on the pressure side of the fuel system. If it's the regulator or fuel pump check valve leaking all it's going to do is hurt hot starting. If it's a main injector or the CSI it's going to make the engine run rich. If it's an external leak it's going to make your wallet run lean.
After reading the entire thread (and since you're looking at fuel pressure) snap the throttle wide open several times with the vacuum line off. Fuel pressure should not drop more than a couple of psi. If it does you either have a restriction somewhere or the fuel pump relay is bad. You could also drive the car with B+ and FP jumped. If the symptom goes away it's the relay. If it remains it's a restriction. Since the relay switches over at about 1-3 psi of boost I'm betting relay. Course, if you've done the 12 volt mod you can disregard that.
Pressure is a tad on the high side but working. Fuel pressure with the line off is always going to be the same with or without the engine running. The rest pressure is bad though. You've got an internal or external leak somewhere on the pressure side of the fuel system. If it's the regulator or fuel pump check valve leaking all it's going to do is hurt hot starting. If it's a main injector or the CSI it's going to make the engine run rich. If it's an external leak it's going to make your wallet run lean.
After reading the entire thread (and since you're looking at fuel pressure) snap the throttle wide open several times with the vacuum line off. Fuel pressure should not drop more than a couple of psi. If it does you either have a restriction somewhere or the fuel pump relay is bad. You could also drive the car with B+ and FP jumped. If the symptom goes away it's the relay. If it remains it's a restriction. Since the relay switches over at about 1-3 psi of boost I'm betting relay. Course, if you've done the 12 volt mod you can disregard that.
Ok heres all my stuff 12v mod done, new FPR, re-wired knock sensors, new platinum NGK from dealer, all injectors are completely sealed and so is the CSI to my complete knowledge there is pressure in the return line when I jumper B+ to FP so not sure its a restriction in the return side if it was wouldnt i run rich as hell and not lean?!?!? so maybe restriction in the feed side but all my lines are kink free and the soft lines were replaced when i did the HG and full swap.
Ok, so it can't be the relay. Still could be a restriction in the supply side or a goofy pump. Snap the throttle wide open with the regulator line off (and plugged) and watch fuel pressure closely.
The rest pressure is bleeding off at one of the points I mentioned and is a separate issue. What will get effected depends on which point. "Sealed" injectors to the outside world isn't what I mean. I mean one leaking when off. Same with the CSI. The unmetered fuel will make the engine run rich. Think about it. That said since you appear to be running lean it's unlikely to be your problem. Still needs to be fixed though.
Everything you've done so far proves the fuel system is working except the rest pressure is bad and you haven't checked volume. To do that disconnect the fuel inlet and run it into a container. Jumper FP and turn the key on. You're looking for a minimum of 1 liter in 30 seconds. A snap throttle pressure drop test is quick and nearly as good though.
The rest pressure is bleeding off at one of the points I mentioned and is a separate issue. What will get effected depends on which point. "Sealed" injectors to the outside world isn't what I mean. I mean one leaking when off. Same with the CSI. The unmetered fuel will make the engine run rich. Think about it. That said since you appear to be running lean it's unlikely to be your problem. Still needs to be fixed though.
Everything you've done so far proves the fuel system is working except the rest pressure is bad and you haven't checked volume. To do that disconnect the fuel inlet and run it into a container. Jumper FP and turn the key on. You're looking for a minimum of 1 liter in 30 seconds. A snap throttle pressure drop test is quick and nearly as good though.
so when i snap the throttle the pressure drops to 37-38psi. the needle bounces like CRAZY though when i do snap the throttle also
Hey, us mere mortals need to eat. Was good too. Wife is Russian and cooks everything from scratch.
Not much of a drop so good news. The odds are the system is able to deliver what fuel the engine needs. Did it do anything weird then or does it only do it under boost?
The bouncing may be because you didn't snap quick enough. When I say snap I mean rate of change ie; you need to snap it open quickly but leave it open long enough for rpm to get way up so the engine is calling for lots of fuel. Try a few more times to be sure. You'd better have the vacuum line off or it's all for nothing. Course, with the line connected pressure should change with manifold vacuum.
With the fuel system checked you can turn your attention to fuel control and ignition. Start by confirming the O2 sensor is working. Use Vf for that. Once that's done you can look into open loop operation. All that said you have to remember that, fuel system aside, the EFI system will not be at fault 98% of the time. I'm taking your word you have no induction leaks, codes, and timing is correct.
As far as the residual pressure goes picture the supply side of the fuel system as a closed volume. It's pressurized up to the regulator and the regulator leaks back a controlled amount to the tank. That's how fuel pressure is controlled. When you shut the engine off the regulator should close tight, as do all the injectors and a check valve in the fuel pump. That leaves the system pressurized. Since yours is not staying pressurized that means fuel is leaking past one of those things or out into the world. None of this is going to cause lean running. I'm just explaining why your rest pressure is bad.
Not much of a drop so good news. The odds are the system is able to deliver what fuel the engine needs. Did it do anything weird then or does it only do it under boost?
The bouncing may be because you didn't snap quick enough. When I say snap I mean rate of change ie; you need to snap it open quickly but leave it open long enough for rpm to get way up so the engine is calling for lots of fuel. Try a few more times to be sure. You'd better have the vacuum line off or it's all for nothing. Course, with the line connected pressure should change with manifold vacuum.
With the fuel system checked you can turn your attention to fuel control and ignition. Start by confirming the O2 sensor is working. Use Vf for that. Once that's done you can look into open loop operation. All that said you have to remember that, fuel system aside, the EFI system will not be at fault 98% of the time. I'm taking your word you have no induction leaks, codes, and timing is correct.
As far as the residual pressure goes picture the supply side of the fuel system as a closed volume. It's pressurized up to the regulator and the regulator leaks back a controlled amount to the tank. That's how fuel pressure is controlled. When you shut the engine off the regulator should close tight, as do all the injectors and a check valve in the fuel pump. That leaves the system pressurized. Since yours is not staying pressurized that means fuel is leaking past one of those things or out into the world. None of this is going to cause lean running. I'm just explaining why your rest pressure is bad.
ok yeah i just quickly snapped it open very fast ill re due that and its only under boost i hit postitive manifold pressure and bam fuel cut all over again also speakingof O2 how can i hardwire it into the ecu cuz its comletely unplugged and no code or check engine light is lite
opened throttle quick as hell and let car get up to 5000-6000rpm pressure with vac line disconnected stayed same as above
O2 is unplugged? Jeez guy. You need to fix that because what the TCCS does in closed loop effects open loop. Not that I feel it's related to your problem but when I'm helping people I'm assuming everything in the car is hooked up. I should know better though, every one of these cars I've been asked to work on has been a total mess. Wire that thing up or plug it back in.