Operation Daily Driver 1uzfe 88 MK3
- Thread starter RedPhoenix
- Start date
CAKEWALK123;1484382 said:
I got mine at AllPro... its listed on Car-Part.com... when I went there they tried to say it was a mistake and all this garbage, although I talked to them 2 times prior and they said $99 was fine... After complaining for a bit, I got it for the price I expected and not the $350 they tried to get me for.
We have weekly get togethers, usually wednesday, but I have no problem meeting up whenever and talking about it. We have a large 1uzfe group in the Tampa Bay area...
4U2QUIK;1484434 said:
limequat;1484460 said:
supra90turbo;1484465 said:
haha thanks! its pretty funny... but the car was almost the same price too... hate to say it the manual swap part will take 90% of the money on this swap!
I still can get over how freakin sexy your whip looks with those rims dude. And they way it sits......I think i just poped a boner hahaha. Looks great dude!
do u feel that the 1uz is th cheapest route take. i mean I was considering it but I wanted reliability and I aso want some power
I dont think its the cheapest... But its not horrible if you price out stuff correctly or just wait for good deals.
Tacked welded some solid mounts. Hope they work. I was weary about solid mounts, but I rode in a 1jz MK3 with solid mounts and it was pretty smooth... I figure since the 1uzfe is smoother, it should be fine. May have to make some small adjustments on the lip where it sits on the frame, but no big deal.
Tacked welded some solid mounts. Hope they work. I was weary about solid mounts, but I rode in a 1jz MK3 with solid mounts and it was pretty smooth... I figure since the 1uzfe is smoother, it should be fine. May have to make some small adjustments on the lip where it sits on the frame, but no big deal.
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4U2QUIK
1UZFE SWAP DUDE!!!
Test fit. Fit decent, gotta modify the plate that bolts to the frame.. its close and would work, but I can make it fit a lot better with a little re-engineering.
However..... Dummy block fits great!
However..... Dummy block fits great!
Those mounts look suspiciously like my design 
lol. The ride is smooth from idle to redline. Anyone who wants the CAD drawings for the solid mounts, they're on my build site. If you don't like solid mounts, then removing ~2" from them will allow the stock 7MGTE rubber isolator to be used.
Thanks for the heads up on the build thread Matt. Subscribed!
lol. The ride is smooth from idle to redline. Anyone who wants the CAD drawings for the solid mounts, they're on my build site. If you don't like solid mounts, then removing ~2" from them will allow the stock 7MGTE rubber isolator to be used.Thanks for the heads up on the build thread Matt. Subscribed!
Will a w58 handle a 1 uz with some head work and a m90? Or should I just get rid of the w58 to the same person that wants to buy my 7mge when I do the swap and just get a r154?
How much should I ask for a running 7mge and w58? about 140k miles.
How much should I ask for a running 7mge and w58? about 140k miles.
No idea on pricing...usually I see those W58 between 100-300... not a clue about the engine.
W58 will hold that power. Ive seen it... help a local friend had a gone through 3 7m's on his turbo supra with the same W58. He is using the same W58 on his 1uzfe for the last 2 years as a DD.
I would say its all about how it was taken care of. Also keep in mind R154 swap is more $$.
W58 will hold that power. Ive seen it... help a local friend had a gone through 3 7m's on his turbo supra with the same W58. He is using the same W58 on his 1uzfe for the last 2 years as a DD.
I would say its all about how it was taken care of. Also keep in mind R154 swap is more $$.
4U2QUIK
1UZFE SWAP DUDE!!!
for the most part the w58 is the way to go. unless you plan on going over 400hp... Which is why I went the R154 rout.
Well how things have changed. It seems i might have to go back to PR. I want to take my mk3 with me but its gonna cost like $2200-$2500 just to get it there and pay the taxes.
If I can get rid of the car, I should have like $3500-4500 to work with once i get over there, that should be enough for a motorless mk3 and start from that, but dam mine looks nice inside and out.
If i can manage the swap in 3 months time ill take her with me, if not im going to have to sell it.
Anyone in the market for a 140k white 91 with blue leather int. in Tampa? longshot I know.
Ill try to get some pics today.
If I can get rid of the car, I should have like $3500-4500 to work with once i get over there, that should be enough for a motorless mk3 and start from that, but dam mine looks nice inside and out.
If i can manage the swap in 3 months time ill take her with me, if not im going to have to sell it.
Anyone in the market for a 140k white 91 with blue leather int. in Tampa? longshot I know.
Ill try to get some pics today.
I would appreciate it if you started your own thread .
I just got done with a few days were of autocad work on select pieces.
Since I will seriously be beating this car around... including some auto-x or drifting etc, I decided on getting some solid 6061 subframe bushings made along with all new rear arms.
Then you guys would say.. why not A1 or BV arms? Honestly... The construction of the clevis scares me. Folded steel looks so flimsy. I just done cadding up solid billet arms. The clevis is modeled into the arm as 1 piece. They will be 6061 (and trust me, they will be about 75% beefier than than any of the aluminum arms out there right now). Also, I have no idea what Rod Ends (or people know them as Heim Joints) are used... so skipping all the bullcrap and I will just get some quality 3/4" Auroras...insteading of risking my life on some no name "strong" rod ends...
.I just got done with a few days were of autocad work on select pieces.
Since I will seriously be beating this car around... including some auto-x or drifting etc, I decided on getting some solid 6061 subframe bushings made along with all new rear arms.
Then you guys would say.. why not A1 or BV arms? Honestly... The construction of the clevis scares me. Folded steel looks so flimsy. I just done cadding up solid billet arms. The clevis is modeled into the arm as 1 piece. They will be 6061 (and trust me, they will be about 75% beefier than than any of the aluminum arms out there right now). Also, I have no idea what Rod Ends (or people know them as Heim Joints) are used... so skipping all the bullcrap and I will just get some quality 3/4" Auroras...insteading of risking my life on some no name "strong" rod ends...
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I would be VERY interested to see these arms, please post some pics
also any word on getting the SC spindle, how much angle did you gain?
also any word on getting the SC spindle, how much angle did you gain?
Soon enough ill post pics of the arms.
Steering angle wise, not sure yet... let you know once its all bolted down.
Steering angle wise, not sure yet... let you know once its all bolted down.
Had to move the Supra again, moved it back to my place of residence. Need them side moldings!
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