New 7M Install
- Thread starter TweeT91109
- Start date
TweeT91109;1681543 said:
Thanks, I go to a bit of effort to provide concise accurate information and often I see things I've said that are misquotes then with the filter down dumbing it ends up being 100% useless...
IJ.;1681550 said:
I 100% understand where ur coming from with that. I want to say 1. thank you and every one else who has put in for this thread, for all the advice you have given me.2. I want to say sorry about the mis quote. Ill fix it as soon as I get on a real computer. Not that it matters cause you have already quoted it lol.
Ok Today I received a order from drift-motion, I ordered ARP Mains, and Rod caps. Figured they would make some of you happy. Also a SS Cold Start Injector Line, and a new rear main seal. Currently my head is also at the machine shop, they offered to take pictures for me while the work was being done. Sometime next week ill be taking my block back to a machine shop to have it re-decked, with ARP hardware. After that, ill be ordering a metal head gasket, after they tell me which one to get. Then I have to order a few more seals, (front main, oil drift-shaft seal). Then it will be all about reassembly and getting it started.
ARP rod bolts
ARP Main bolts, and caps
new rear main seal
New SS CSI Line
ARP rod bolts
ARP Main bolts, and caps
new rear main seal
New SS CSI Line
Ok so huge update today, I took my block to a second machine shop today, and dropped it off. They are doing a aline bore of the mains, being that the ARP's torque differently, also they have to bore the cylinders to .020 over, being that the previous "shop" did a crappy honing of it, leaving no cross-hatching at all. Also, they are checking the deck of the block, before and after torquing the mains, down to see if a re-decking of it is required. If not, I have to order a 2.0mm head gasket, being that the previous shop took off way more then they really had to. So all in all, I spent a lot of money, but i'm getting it done correctly.
One question I have is should I get a bead type metal head gasket or a stopper type? Its just for a Daily Driven car, it may see some upgrades latter in life though. But surely nothing more then, 400ish.
One question I have is should I get a bead type metal head gasket or a stopper type? Its just for a Daily Driven car, it may see some upgrades latter in life though. But surely nothing more then, 400ish.
Did you even check that the block needed line boring?
You really need to either find a Mentor close by or ask in here BEFORE you say yes to work being done... :nono:
You really need to either find a Mentor close by or ask in here BEFORE you say yes to work being done... :nono:
Ian, most people say that using ARP mains require line boring. Is that true? I also don't believe that ARP will warp a block by .007 thous.
That would normally mean the 1JZ and 2JZ really wouldn't need it since those bottoms ends are built on the same design and they tend to hold their tolerances very well.
It's something that needs to be checked as it's a high risk machine operation and can easily junk a block, not something you do cos...
Tell them to check the mains, if it is horribly out of round, then align bore it.
I only have done a line bore once, a H22 block. It spun the main bearing and it was overheated badly that it bent the crankshaft by a few thousands. We had the crank cut and balanced. When we went to put the crank in the block, it would not seat flush and then we noticed that the block's mains were pulled and twisted. The crank would not seat flush, we did a line bore and it was fixed.
I only have done a line bore once, a H22 block. It spun the main bearing and it was overheated badly that it bent the crankshaft by a few thousands. We had the crank cut and balanced. When we went to put the crank in the block, it would not seat flush and then we noticed that the block's mains were pulled and twisted. The crank would not seat flush, we did a line bore and it was fixed.
IBoughtASupra;1682588 said:
Ok well I wont be able to talk to them till Monday, hopefully they wont do any work till then.
OK I gave them a call, and they informed me that the a-line bore was needed. Which I was probably thinking it was going to be needed, with the new ARP mains. So thats being done currently. I have .020 over NPR pistons & steel rings, clevite bearing set (mains, rods, thrust), in the mail. So the machine shop is currently on hold till I get the pistons in the mail from drift-motion. But I took the head to a machine shop and got it back today. So heres a few pics of the head when I got it, and the hardware they took off to get it all clean. I also had them take pictures of the head while they were working on it. But I wont have those till the get put on a disk for me.
My main head and a spare.
Spare nuts and bolts, and the EGR cooler plate.
My main head and a spare.
Spare nuts and bolts, and the EGR cooler plate.
IBoughtASupra;1683348 said:
Well I had folded up pieces of card board on each end while I took the pics so it was sorta floating in the air, then I turned it back over. Its funny cause you can read 7M on all the valves now.
The only way to store any head is to turn it over with the valves facing up. You can store it sitting on the valves side if they are no cams installed.