The A1 arms have their own adjustability, but do you still use the stock cam bolts? If you don't the bolt for the A1 bar could move in the slot right? I'm curious as I'll be buying a set of those too :icon_biggbuckshotglass said:In other news, I got those bolts out of the rear suspension tonight and the gas tank.
I'm still saying 10 days on the cams!
Milo's Booster Seat...
- Thread starter buckshotglass
- Start date
Nate.
I've been thinking about that. I just came form the toyota store. The new bolts are like 9 dollars each, oh well. Im going to get the original stuff just to keep it simple. The other option is to get regular bolts and big heavy washers, and center them, or weld them so they don't move, and use the A-1 parts for adj.
Not that you need it, but good luck with ROTY. I'm gonna vote soon.
I've been thinking about that. I just came form the toyota store. The new bolts are like 9 dollars each, oh well. Im going to get the original stuff just to keep it simple. The other option is to get regular bolts and big heavy washers, and center them, or weld them so they don't move, and use the A-1 parts for adj.
Not that you need it, but good luck with ROTY. I'm gonna vote soon.
Buck i bought the cams too and eric sent me a email that said the cams are going to be shipped jan 15
Although built well, the A-1 arms are apparently a massive pain when it comes to alignment time. For each adjustment, the car must tbe jacked up, and the rod unbolted to rotate it, then reattach, and check camber, repeating endlessly until you get it right!
I've taken Randy at BIC Performance's suggestion to simply notch the stock camber holes a bit wider to allow for extra adjustment.
I've taken Randy at BIC Performance's suggestion to simply notch the stock camber holes a bit wider to allow for extra adjustment.
word gets around you only can notch so much tell the cam over laps and does not stay in place cause bigger cams are need for more avnace ment but stock will do 2.75 inc of lower withc notcih you cna gain about 3 and tad befor you have to get bigger cam bolt
as for the a1 that more for loading the arm and hime joint are like butter yummmy plus you shoudl not have to remove the arm cause they shoudl use lefthead thred and read head thread on eatehr end then use jam nut knwo is that dumb
as for the a1 that more for loading the arm and hime joint are like butter yummmy plus you shoudl not have to remove the arm cause they shoudl use lefthead thred and read head thread on eatehr end then use jam nut knwo is that dumb
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Yeah, you use the A1 arm's adjustability in conjunction with the eccentric bolts on the subframe to give you that much more movement if you need it.
New Toyota eccentric bolts/washers ftw! I got a full set ready for when I buy my arms.
Love everything so far, man. Keep us posted. A fuel cell would be right in the line of things to do...
New Toyota eccentric bolts/washers ftw! I got a full set ready for when I buy my arms.
Love everything so far, man. Keep us posted. A fuel cell would be right in the line of things to do...
Thanks everyone!
A-1 makes three peices for each side of the rear of the Sup. Two of the three are adjustable without removing them, like Nash said. The third arm, the one that the swaybar hooks onto will need to be removed to be adjusted, but I don't think it's going to be a big deal.
There is no way I would attempt to enlarge the factory holes to gain a little adj. I think those areas are weak to begin with, I just can't do it.
Thinking of making this swap? For me it was not just unbolt the old and drop in the new. I could not have done this job without a sawzall, small air cutoff wheel, and a cutting torch. damm salty winters around here.
I'm back to waiting for parts.
I'm still saying Cams in 8 days. The day Eric said it was ok to pay, I talked to him, and he said the 7th. I know it now says between the 7th and 15th. I think Eric did that so everyone didn't kill him on the 8th if they weren't out.
I got some I/C tubing yesterday. I wish the blue parts were black.
A-1 makes three peices for each side of the rear of the Sup. Two of the three are adjustable without removing them, like Nash said. The third arm, the one that the swaybar hooks onto will need to be removed to be adjusted, but I don't think it's going to be a big deal.
There is no way I would attempt to enlarge the factory holes to gain a little adj. I think those areas are weak to begin with, I just can't do it.
Thinking of making this swap? For me it was not just unbolt the old and drop in the new. I could not have done this job without a sawzall, small air cutoff wheel, and a cutting torch. damm salty winters around here.
I'm back to waiting for parts.
I'm still saying Cams in 8 days. The day Eric said it was ok to pay, I talked to him, and he said the 7th. I know it now says between the 7th and 15th. I think Eric did that so everyone didn't kill him on the 8th if they weren't out.
I got some I/C tubing yesterday. I wish the blue parts were black.
Happy New Year.ffwall:
Cams should ship out this time next week. 7 days :wiggle:
Turbofreak has been so patient. I could only get a pic of the outside, inside.
oh, and one more thing...
YEAH BUDDY!:evildeal:
ffwall: Cams should ship out this time next week. 7 days :wiggle:
Turbofreak has been so patient. I could only get a pic of the outside, inside.
oh, and one more thing...
YEAH BUDDY!:evildeal:
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rs4buddy said:
Thanks for looking. I only had a few more.
this is what I cut off the parts that came with the gauges
If your heatgun has an end piece to pinpoint the hot air, I think that would make things safer damage wise, and easier. I did it without one. I wanted one so bad I tried to make one from some metal tape used on furnace chimneys, but that didn't work at all.:icon_conf
If you have specific questions, feel free to ask.
Get a butane soldering iron, they come with a tip you can use as a little heat gun, I use it a bunch for interior repairs, and you can move it lightly over scratches in plastic, if your good, and make them disappear.
tookwik4u89 said:
ROLM, thats funny....^ thats a good idea Quick. You need a small area of heat to do the gauges well. I like it.
Thanks people. Lots more to do. If I go fuel cell, that means I gotta switch out the fuel gauge too. Shit. oh well.
polobai said:
I used a heatgun and a flat screwdriver and melted the black part very carefully, and made them roundish. (first page of this thread) I did ok, I can see where I could make it a little better, but for now I'm done. It was not that easy. You could easily destroy the black bezel part in seconds with the heat in the wrong place. Pay attention. :3d_frown:
edit: im on page 8 of your build, you painted yours so thats a little different.
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Buckshot its looking good!!! I have been following the build and am very impressed. You seem to be a great guy and you are doing a top notch build that actually moves. Keep up the good work and I think we are all looking forward to seeing the finished project.
da89soup said:
Mr Soup. Thanks a lot. Words like that is what keeps this build moving along. Almost brought a fucking tear to my eye.:icon_bigg
Big, I'm still processing the nightmare I had last night about the cams. I am sure HP Eric will make every effort to get them out close to when he told us, but for now, CAMS In ???????? Days. that blows.:nono:
I'm sure you will still love the car, even if it's done a month behind schedule.
This gives you a chance to get all the rest of your ducks in a row in the meantime. Maybe there is something you might have rushed through that now you can take your time doing.
(or you could go melt some sand)
This gives you a chance to get all the rest of your ducks in a row in the meantime. Maybe there is something you might have rushed through that now you can take your time doing.
(or you could go melt some sand)