Smaller diameter valves take longer by hand as the surface speed is lower Micky... (take it to a shop) 
MickyG's MX-73 to 7M-GE Swap
- Thread starter mickyg
- Start date
Spoke with the machinist - about $250 for a valve job, including new shims/buckets. I would think those wouldn't be required so I may go elsewhere or continue grinding to see how much effort is really going to be required. My wife is not even remotely happy about $250 in one chunk so if I go ahead, it's going to be a few weeks down the road. That's what happens when several large expenses come in one hit though (car insurance, new glasses, mortgage, etc...).
Allways a problem when the good woman shuffles back onto the front seat where you left your glasses and sits on them
let me know next time you need specs i know a crazy MR2 owner who happens to be a good specs guy
let me know next time you need specs i know a crazy MR2 owner who happens to be a good specs guy
Do I detect a hidden message there?
In all fairness, I'm just as unexcited about spending $250 on something I thought I could do myself as she is!
In all fairness, I'm just as unexcited about spending $250 on something I thought I could do myself as she is!
Too true. So the second part of what you mentioned above about specs - are you referring to specs as in specifications or spectacles? I must say I'm just a little bit confused...
Today!
Well someone's gotta keep the tradition going, right?
I've had a lot of "off" time in the last month. We put the house on the market and that means open for inspections and the potential for buyers to be going through the house at any time. So a dirty garage with engine parts everywhere is a no-no!
At any rate, I managed to get things in a state where I can work and clean it all up relatively quickly. That's come in the last 2 weeks or so, so I've gotten a little bit done. Here's the list (I love my lists!):
So it's all nice and clean and ready to go back together! I'm hoping to get a lot accomplished this weekend but it's a 7M so there will likely be issues.
I'd post pics but I'm still over my limit and haven't gotten around to putting pics up on a web site yet (I hate the popups of all the hosting sites these days). Oh, and there's not much to see at the moment!
Well someone's gotta keep the tradition going, right?
I've had a lot of "off" time in the last month. We put the house on the market and that means open for inspections and the potential for buyers to be going through the house at any time. So a dirty garage with engine parts everywhere is a no-no!
At any rate, I managed to get things in a state where I can work and clean it all up relatively quickly. That's come in the last 2 weeks or so, so I've gotten a little bit done. Here's the list (I love my lists!):
- All head bolt holes properly chased and cleaned in preperation for the ARP studs
- Purchased a brand new crank damper bolt
- Got the valves lapped in (they weren't bad enough to warrant a full valve job)
- Had some dramas with cam bearing to cap clearances but was wisely advised not to worry too much about it
- Valves got put back in by my machinist today, just after the head got its final wash
So it's all nice and clean and ready to go back together! I'm hoping to get a lot accomplished this weekend but it's a 7M so there will likely be issues.
I'd post pics but I'm still over my limit and haven't gotten around to putting pics up on a web site yet (I hate the popups of all the hosting sites these days). Oh, and there's not much to see at the moment!
This Weekend:
There were also a few unexpected surprises that are worth mentioning. The old "must use correctly sized 14mm socket for ARP studs issue" reared its ugly head. I knew early on that this'd be a problem so made doubly sure I purchased a deep socket that was the correct size. Unfortunately, the machined recesses in the head are anything but uniform and the socket was narrow enough for all but 3 nuts! I just happened to have a standard 12pt 14mm normal socket that engages about half the nut by the time it's torqued down so the head is on at 30ft/lbs at the moment until I can get a deep socket machined down tighter.
Makes me wish I'd just widened the recesses before I got the head put back together.
Other than the greasy mess of the water pipes, j-tube, pullies, and tensioner, there were really no other annoyances.
Oh, except for the fact that I'm missing a few nuts and bolts to hold the AC compressor bracket and idler pully on (like all of them!). I expect there will be more of this sort of thing before I finish so I'm not too worried.
- Head is on!
- Attached water bypass pipe
- Attached J-Tube (Gee, that was difficult... :icon_razz )
- Bolted oil pump pully on
- Bolted cam belt tensioner on
- Installed lower timing cover
There were also a few unexpected surprises that are worth mentioning. The old "must use correctly sized 14mm socket for ARP studs issue" reared its ugly head. I knew early on that this'd be a problem so made doubly sure I purchased a deep socket that was the correct size. Unfortunately, the machined recesses in the head are anything but uniform and the socket was narrow enough for all but 3 nuts! I just happened to have a standard 12pt 14mm normal socket that engages about half the nut by the time it's torqued down so the head is on at 30ft/lbs at the moment until I can get a deep socket machined down tighter.
Makes me wish I'd just widened the recesses before I got the head put back together.
Other than the greasy mess of the water pipes, j-tube, pullies, and tensioner, there were really no other annoyances.
Oh, except for the fact that I'm missing a few nuts and bolts to hold the AC compressor bracket and idler pully on (like all of them!). I expect there will be more of this sort of thing before I finish so I'm not too worried.
To do still:
I still need an NA AFM which I'll be getting from my bro and am still on the lookout for an NA Auto ECU (Pre 89). Then the hard part - trying to mate that up to the stock MX-73 stuff. That means transmission and any other misc stuff. Lots of research yet to do on this!
- Torque head down fully (got socket machined down by .5mm so it fits)
- Clean up fuel rail and injectors
- Attach fuel rail and injectors
- Attach intake parts
- Double check valve clearances
- assemble cams
- Finish timing belt component install
- Clean up valve covers
- Reattach all brackets and accessories (still missing a few nuts and bolts)
I still need an NA AFM which I'll be getting from my bro and am still on the lookout for an NA Auto ECU (Pre 89). Then the hard part - trying to mate that up to the stock MX-73 stuff. That means transmission and any other misc stuff. Lots of research yet to do on this!
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
I have posted in your thread!! (I'm sure you get this )
I always used a 1/2" deep socket for the arps, fits like a dream.
I want pictures man, I'm visual like that.
Glad to hear you're getting close.
)I always used a 1/2" deep socket for the arps, fits like a dream.
I want pictures man, I'm visual like that.
Glad to hear you're getting close.
Thanks man! Yeah, I'm not looking for all kinds of traffic here, cause as far as builds go, this one's pretty boring! I just miss the feedback that used to be pretty common.
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
I'll bother you all the time then.
Have you found much of anything on the fitments for the tranny?
or maybe a custom driveshaft for a w58?
Have you found much of anything on the fitments for the tranny?
or maybe a custom driveshaft for a w58?
That's always been an option and I know where to get one but at this point, money and time are scarce so I'm still planning to use the A43DE that's in the car now. I've yet to seriously look at all that's involved with getting it to talk to the 7M ECU though. There's possibly a vehicle speed sensor, throttle position, and something else that I'm not thinking of that needs to be connected before this will work correctly. Right now, I'm pretty concerned that it won't be trivial.
I still need the 7M ECU too and so far haven't found one locally.
but at this point, money and time are scarce so I'm still planning to use the A43DE that's in the car now. I've yet to seriously look at all that's involved with getting it to talk to the 7M ECU though. There's possibly a vehicle speed sensor, throttle position, and something else that I'm not thinking of that needs to be connected before this will work correctly. Right now, I'm pretty concerned that it won't be trivial.I still need the 7M ECU too and so far haven't found one locally.
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
Pre 89 but it's got to be an NA and auto (na autos are harder to find than na manuals, ufortunately).
And if you've got it, "you're a legend mate!" Which means thanks a ton! Always happy to translate Aussie slang, by the way. You knew I was Cali born and raised, didn't you?
And if you've got it, "you're a legend mate!" Which means thanks a ton! Always happy to translate Aussie slang, by the way. You knew I was Cali born and raised, didn't you?
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
No I did not know that.
I'm raised but not born here.
I think it may be a 90 n/a auto but I do believe it worked when I tested it with my 88. I'll check when I get home. I might be able to source you one elsewhere also.
I'm raised but not born here.
I think it may be a 90 n/a auto but I do believe it worked when I tested it with my 88. I'll check when I get home. I might be able to source you one elsewhere also.
Sounds great either way! I don't think the yellow ECU connectors on my loom will mate up to a 90 though. Unless the changes in ECU pins and features was a turbo only thing...
Yeah, born in Santa Rosa and lived in the bay area until I was 10, when I was violently torn from that part of the world (OK, huge exaggeration!) and plunked down in Oklahoma. Not that there's anything wrong with that part of the world, mind you! I've been in Australia for only 4 years, come February.
Yeah, born in Santa Rosa and lived in the bay area until I was 10, when I was violently torn from that part of the world (OK, huge exaggeration!) and plunked down in Oklahoma. Not that there's anything wrong with that part of the world, mind you! I've been in Australia for only 4 years, come February.
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
Violently torn lol.
I think Oklahoma probably sucks haha.
This is it. Pretty sure it should hook up to yours.
Like I said the last time I used it, it was working so It should be fine.
I guess once the temps get up enough to go outside I could double check so you don't pay for a dud. I'm using the 87 manual right now but it was working with the 88 auto last time I used it.
In case you can't read the numbering. Pretty sure the n/a's hook up the same.
89661-14311
175000-2790
10P-18P-24P
I think Oklahoma probably sucks haha.
This is it. Pretty sure it should hook up to yours.
Like I said the last time I used it, it was working so It should be fine.
I guess once the temps get up enough to go outside I could double check so you don't pay for a dud. I'm using the 87 manual right now but it was working with the 88 auto last time I used it.
In case you can't read the numbering. Pretty sure the n/a's hook up the same.
89661-14311
175000-2790
10P-18P-24P
Is that the engine ECU or just the Transmission ECU? Nevermind - the "Engine Control" gave it away! I'll have a look at my loom tonight and let you know.