MickyG's MX-73 to 7M-GE Swap
- Thread starter mickyg
- Start date
Interesting. Well if you need to know where the set came from, I can get you the details (it's on the packaging in the pic, I think).
Progress:
Not a whole lot to report (again).
Picked up my rear seal bracket gasket and 5 new bolts so I'm ready to reassemble things on the outside of the bottom end now - should be exciting (for me at least!).
Spent last night repairing a friend's '92 scamry - dead motor mounts front and back. Only thing holding the motor in was the side mounts and the axle! Very dirty, grimy job!
Now for some questions I've been pondering for my build - the Cressie doesn't have an oil pressure gauge, per say. It has a warning light and that's about it. I've searched a bit for aftermarket gauges and around here on the forums and it seems these sender units are pulsed and therefore not compatible with any aftermarket gauges out there. Anyone know what the best solution for me is going to be? I thought about fitting a stock supra gauge but have no idea where I'd put it. TIA
Not a whole lot to report (again).
Picked up my rear seal bracket gasket and 5 new bolts so I'm ready to reassemble things on the outside of the bottom end now - should be exciting (for me at least!).
Spent last night repairing a friend's '92 scamry - dead motor mounts front and back. Only thing holding the motor in was the side mounts and the axle! Very dirty, grimy job!
Now for some questions I've been pondering for my build - the Cressie doesn't have an oil pressure gauge, per say. It has a warning light and that's about it. I've searched a bit for aftermarket gauges and around here on the forums and it seems these sender units are pulsed and therefore not compatible with any aftermarket gauges out there. Anyone know what the best solution for me is going to be? I thought about fitting a stock supra gauge but have no idea where I'd put it. TIA
No need to comment on the oil gauge question - got a solution in mind. I forgot there are numerous ports on the main oil galley that I can use for a secondary sender/gauge.
Started working on cleaning the head up. Still a lot of carbon to deal with that the first cleaning didn't get.
Based on how gross, time consuming, potentially damaging (brass brush > aluminum) this is going to be, I had a thought. Is it possible to bead blast the head? I know there are many, many places were you don't want sand, but provided you protected those spots, is it OK to do this? It's sure make this a lot quicker!
If this is a really bad idea, I know you people will set me straight!
Based on how gross, time consuming, potentially damaging (brass brush > aluminum) this is going to be, I had a thought. Is it possible to bead blast the head? I know there are many, many places were you don't want sand, but provided you protected those spots, is it OK to do this? It's sure make this a lot quicker!
If this is a really bad idea, I know you people will set me straight!
The glass beads are that small it's almost impossible to keep em out!
Ask Adjuster how his glass beaded motor ran
Ask Adjuster how his glass beaded motor ran
Sounds like sagely advise. No need for me to further debate then.
Next question then is whether scratches from brass bristled brushes on a drill are something to worry about. I did one combustion chamber tonight and the results weren't all that confidence inspiring. It's not exactly gouged but scratched would probably be close to accurate.
Next question then is whether scratches from brass bristled brushes on a drill are something to worry about. I did one combustion chamber tonight and the results weren't all that confidence inspiring. It's not exactly gouged but scratched would probably be close to accurate.
if you must and you have allredy surfaced the head, get a dead gasket and nuts and washers to fit the head bolts, bolt the gasket on only firmly then get the wire brush on the drill happening..
otherwise go nuts! (i use a stainless brush on the die grinder )
otherwise go nuts! (i use a stainless brush on the die grinder
)
Hey mickyg, nice progression, My metalwork teacher told me "a shiny surface is one that has many scratches" He told me this when i was trying to emorycloth+oil sand these marks a vice jaws left on my bottle opener i was making. Derno how it relates to your question but your thread needs to go OT for a bit (kinda like Ians)
Anyhoo keep up the good work.
Anyhoo keep up the good work.
Thanks guys!
Allan: Yeah, the head's already been surfaced so the old gasket trick sounds like a good idea.
Mik: OT never hurt anyone! And besides, there's always a chance it'll lead to some insight into the bigger picture.
Allan: Yeah, the head's already been surfaced so the old gasket trick sounds like a good idea.
Mik: OT never hurt anyone! And besides, there's always a chance it'll lead to some insight into the bigger picture.
I popped into the local autoparts store this morning to price up some oil gauges (electrical gauge + appropriate sender). Man, this stuff is crazy expensive! Close to $200 for one stupid gauge! Contrast that with $60-$90 for suggested retail back in the states. I don't get it!
Any fellow aussies have any advice on where to pick up a no frills electrical pressure gauge with sender?
I'm obviously way ahead of myself on this part, as the engine's not even assembled yet! However, I do want to use it on the 5M that's already in my car to get an idea of what a worn motor's oil pressure looks like.
Any fellow aussies have any advice on where to pick up a no frills electrical pressure gauge with sender?
I'm obviously way ahead of myself on this part, as the engine's not even assembled yet! However, I do want to use it on the 5M that's already in my car to get an idea of what a worn motor's oil pressure looks like.
I got my autometer sportscomp for $140 electric. I know you can get cheaper on ebay and other online stores but i like to see,touch,feel and the product im purchasing and also talk to people about it.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Yep, even sonic cleaning this last head a few times, pressure washing it with both a steam cleaner, and an air powered/assisted pressure washer, it still supprised me how much blasting media loves to hide in every nook and cranny.
If you must use blast media, here are a few tips.
1) The oil feed passages will clog up with media pretty quickly, and there are many blind corners for media to hide in. Use carb cleaner and the long tube nozzles on it to help motivate this stuff out of your head when your done. Also using a long thin nozzle on an air blower will help to move most of it out later too. (Just blowing air down the ports does not cut it, trust me, your going to feel the grit you missed when you start poking the long nozzle down the oil holes...)
2) Find someone with a sonic cleaner. Basicly it is about as clean a part as your going to get when it's done. Ultrasonic sound removes all the grease and grime, and helps to loosen up stubborn carbon deposits too.
3) Do all your blasting and cleaneing BEFORE you have any machine work done. I've noticed it tends to raise up the surface, and screws up critical clearances if your not careful. (Like on your piston pin bores for example.)
On this last head I went crazy. Larger valves, BBC valve springs, and ported the heck out of the exhaust runners, and cleaned up the intake side. Then I aluminum oxide sand blasted the entire head, ports and everything, and coated it completely.
I sonic cleaned it a few times for 15 min each, about 45 min total before I started any of the work. Removed the valves, springs etc. Cams were out, and the rear coolant plug/fitting was removed too. Still was some oil and gunk left over, even after all those cleanings.
When I was done with the aluminum oxide, I used compressed air to blow out most of the media. Then used a few cans of carb cleaner and long plastic tubes to blast out the oil and coolant passeges. Then more air to clean out the carb cleaner, and it was still blowing grit every now and then... (Meaning there was still more grit in there.)
So, another 3 rounds in the sonic cleaner, and found yet more blasting media. (Very difficult to remove this crap.) After lots of grit and cleaner being blown back into my eyes/face ect, it was finally just blowing air back, with no grit when air was blown down the coolant and oil passeges. I even steam cleaned it, and then pressure washed it too.
Was it all worth it? IDK, but it sure was more work than I'd do again.
If your just going to clean up parts with glass bead, I suppose your going to find it's not much less work to clean up the glass leftover when your done. But the glass bead will not leave a good surface for paint, or coatings to adhere to. (Too smooth, you need more tooth for the coatings to really lock into.)
If you must use blast media, here are a few tips.
1) The oil feed passages will clog up with media pretty quickly, and there are many blind corners for media to hide in. Use carb cleaner and the long tube nozzles on it to help motivate this stuff out of your head when your done. Also using a long thin nozzle on an air blower will help to move most of it out later too. (Just blowing air down the ports does not cut it, trust me, your going to feel the grit you missed when you start poking the long nozzle down the oil holes...)
2) Find someone with a sonic cleaner. Basicly it is about as clean a part as your going to get when it's done. Ultrasonic sound removes all the grease and grime, and helps to loosen up stubborn carbon deposits too.
3) Do all your blasting and cleaneing BEFORE you have any machine work done. I've noticed it tends to raise up the surface, and screws up critical clearances if your not careful. (Like on your piston pin bores for example.)
On this last head I went crazy. Larger valves, BBC valve springs, and ported the heck out of the exhaust runners, and cleaned up the intake side. Then I aluminum oxide sand blasted the entire head, ports and everything, and coated it completely.
I sonic cleaned it a few times for 15 min each, about 45 min total before I started any of the work. Removed the valves, springs etc. Cams were out, and the rear coolant plug/fitting was removed too. Still was some oil and gunk left over, even after all those cleanings.
When I was done with the aluminum oxide, I used compressed air to blow out most of the media. Then used a few cans of carb cleaner and long plastic tubes to blast out the oil and coolant passeges. Then more air to clean out the carb cleaner, and it was still blowing grit every now and then... (Meaning there was still more grit in there.)
So, another 3 rounds in the sonic cleaner, and found yet more blasting media. (Very difficult to remove this crap.) After lots of grit and cleaner being blown back into my eyes/face ect, it was finally just blowing air back, with no grit when air was blown down the coolant and oil passeges. I even steam cleaned it, and then pressure washed it too.
Was it all worth it? IDK, but it sure was more work than I'd do again.
If your just going to clean up parts with glass bead, I suppose your going to find it's not much less work to clean up the glass leftover when your done. But the glass bead will not leave a good surface for paint, or coatings to adhere to. (Too smooth, you need more tooth for the coatings to really lock into.)
Adjuster: Thanks a ton for the info there! I think it's safe to say that I'll be staying away from blasting the head. So far, I've just done the rear and bottom timing covers, rear main seal retainer, thermostat housing, and the housing that the thermo housing bolts to (that just sounded weird...). Oh, and the valves! That was the main reason I got into this in the first place.
So, if there is no way to block the oil/coolant holes enough to completely prevent blasting media from entering, I'll employ the good old fashioned wire brush method of cleaning things on the head - seems to work for everyone else!
So, if there is no way to block the oil/coolant holes enough to completely prevent blasting media from entering, I'll employ the good old fashioned wire brush method of cleaning things on the head - seems to work for everyone else!