I thought it was that or possibly some method of localised water to steam device. That's a long shot though - still it seems possible since the steam vent is directly overhead.
Yes, those metal stalagtite looking things are left inside from the casting. You would never know they are there unless you have removed a set of freeze plugs. LOL
Then they get bent up toward the steam holes to get them out of the way. Makes sense - and I was all excited about them being some sort of heat concentration device, used for localised boiling of the water for extra cooling (phase change from liquid to gas consumes a fair bit of energy)!
Test fit exhaust manifold to see how many holes need to be helicoiled
Thoroughly clean out oil passages (yes, that means removing the crank again - DOH!!!)
Finish bottom end
I don't have an exact tool (rifle cleaning kit) to clean the oil passages and just rang up a gun shop to see what'd it'd set me back. Sounds like $75 is about right... Not sure I've got that sitting around at the moment. However, I'm not sure I've got another few hundred to rebuild the motor if there's anything still in the bores and I destroy it!
Spray gun cleaning kit made me think it was a cleaning kit that attached to a spray gun. You know, a tube on the end of the bottle brush to use the brushes and air pressure both. I re-read your post and realised the error of my ways. Sorry, massive brain fart!!!
I'm heading out to SuperCheap today so I'll see how it goes.
Spent the whole day doing all sorts of things but have only one piston/rod installed to show for it. Sometimes the best laid plans for the day just don't end up happening...
Couple of pics:
1. "device" for getting pistons to 60 degrees in order to insert pin (bucket, hot water, thermometer)
2. "device" in action
3. assembled reciprocating assembly :biglaugh:
4. pistons back in block
Edit:
Removed first pic cause I need more space (and it was unneccessary).
Thanks! Might I just mention that those ring compressors suck! The one I bought was only semi-round and in order to get it to go around the rings the whole thing was so deformed it'd rotate the aligned rings when you'd tighten it. What a pain!
All good now though and the whole assembly is rotating with no more force that turning the harmonic dampener by hand.
Speaking of which, there are a couple of buildup howtos that mention not turning the components more than necessary. Is this because the assembly lube tends to find the oil holes and will work itself off the parts?
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