outofstep said:
1JZ should be possible, need to dig into it.
We are not doing direct injector over-ride, perhaps we should.....
You guys are doing fine.
Bob
maftpro is working
- Thread starter malloynx
- Start date
1JZ should be possible, need to dig into it.
We are not doing direct injector over-ride, perhaps we should.....
You guys are doing fine.
Bob
Hey I knew you'd eventually come with the good news, it seemed like all hopes were tumbling down but I guess we're back on track again :icon_biggdrjonez said:
Unfortunatelly since this is a new product and there's no experience with it these are the only opinions we will have mostly, right? I'm reffering just on the "confused" part, not condoning or following the "simple fix" part obviously but it would certainly be nice to have a fairly easy to tune with tool!drjonez said:
Here's the ideal/most suitable locations for IAT & MAP sensor fittment on a FFIM according to Bob's suggestions last time we talked about this on the thread:
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Thanks for the feedback, and patience.
I'm not sure where the "final" power number will end up, but I belive that the T66 sized "Ebay T70" from Master Power will do just fine. (Should spool up reasonably quick for street use, and flow quite a bit more air than my 60-1 bolt on setup I have now.)
An interesting thing is the 550/lexus/Bolt on 60-1 and the Eman setup was fine for the stock sized motor, but this setup acts more like a stock CT26. It actually runs out of flow at 5500rpm.. And I belive the 550's are at the limit too much for my comfort.
I also realize that the larger injectors will cause the Maft Pro to supply a lower "hz" signal to the TCCS to get an appropriate injector duty cycle, and that timing advance will be affected along with these changes.
If the option of timing control is added to the maft pro, that would be awesome, as would injector drivers, or a "injector driver" box and harness that would interface with the Maft Pro. I'm not going to hold my breath for either one however. I never had my ignition wired up so it can retard the stock 7MGTE setup. It could only advance, and in the end, I pretty much left it alone, and used the stock amount of advance. (Seems to be fine when I'm running 91 or better, and a few gal. of Toulene.)
It is tempting to go full stand alone. The unit cost and tuning time are not in my budget at this point in time, and I have ridden in a few AEM powered cars, and it was interesting, but the owner(s) were always screwing around with the computer, and they ended up running around with a laptop in the car much of the time.
I guess I'll decide here in the next few days either way.
I'm not sure where the "final" power number will end up, but I belive that the T66 sized "Ebay T70" from Master Power will do just fine. (Should spool up reasonably quick for street use, and flow quite a bit more air than my 60-1 bolt on setup I have now.)
An interesting thing is the 550/lexus/Bolt on 60-1 and the Eman setup was fine for the stock sized motor, but this setup acts more like a stock CT26. It actually runs out of flow at 5500rpm.. And I belive the 550's are at the limit too much for my comfort.
I also realize that the larger injectors will cause the Maft Pro to supply a lower "hz" signal to the TCCS to get an appropriate injector duty cycle, and that timing advance will be affected along with these changes.
If the option of timing control is added to the maft pro, that would be awesome, as would injector drivers, or a "injector driver" box and harness that would interface with the Maft Pro. I'm not going to hold my breath for either one however. I never had my ignition wired up so it can retard the stock 7MGTE setup. It could only advance, and in the end, I pretty much left it alone, and used the stock amount of advance. (Seems to be fine when I'm running 91 or better, and a few gal. of Toulene.)
It is tempting to go full stand alone. The unit cost and tuning time are not in my budget at this point in time, and I have ridden in a few AEM powered cars, and it was interesting, but the owner(s) were always screwing around with the computer, and they ended up running around with a laptop in the car much of the time.
I guess I'll decide here in the next few days either way.
wow, ive heard a lot of bad things about those master power turbos, keep us posted on how that works out im extremely interested about it.
I hear you guys about where people say is the best spot for the air temp sensor but I doubt the Toyota engineers would be wrong about putting it in the plenum on 1jz, 2jz, and Turbo A engines. Makes me wonder if people say the intake piping is the best because it is the easiest to remove and put a fitting in. :dunno: I'm gonna leave mine where it is and see how it does. The only vehicle I can think of that has the air temp sensor in the intake piping is Honda, and I don't want my setup to be anything like a Honda 
NA guys rejoice! the next SW rev. of the MAFT pro will have the NA factors in it....i suppose this would apply to other toyo flapper AFMs as well...
Just wanted to say that there's one more Supra with the MAFTPRO setup and running awesome. Complete rebuild fired up on first attempt and even had 11 degrees of timing prior to adjustment. You should have seen the small group at my house watch the turbo start to rotate @ idle.... LOL Engine is smooth as silk. I have a few comments but will post them later.
DR. J - thank you for everything. :biglaugh:
DR. J - thank you for everything. :biglaugh:
Malloy................ ya ready? PM me an address to send a couple wires to.
wiring info is attached
software is here:
http://www.3si.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61119
Ok, here's what's in the next intermediate/preliminary version. There is still some clean-up work to do, but the bulk of the work is done.
Spark control +5/-10 degrees. Full time (like an ITC), once you are above 1000 RPM.
Setting points 2000,2500,3000,.......8000
Part Throttle AF tracking using the wideband. I'm still tweaking it, but it works pretty darn well. I unplug my O2 sensors, and let this do the work. I set idle at 14.0, cruise at 14.7, and lean cruise at 16.0......
Config page is now all text labels for configuration, no more cryptic code numbers......
The "hold the button for 10 sec to get to the settings and config pages" stuff is gone.
Now, I don't have the XDF, or ADS files ready, but the 4.60 files still work ok for now...
Here is what you guys need to do. (in this order)
Update to the new version, and get it running well in the standard configuration. Be sure all your connections are good, or just solder everything.
Get the software configured for direct spark control (Set vehicle select to 2)
set the Spark advance tables for 0 at every point (both WOT and AUX)
Then add the wires to the harness. I am sending the wires and an extra 8-pin plug. If you already have a boost control harness, just add the wires. If not, insert the wires into the new 8-pin plug.
The White wire is currently tapping the IGt signal. This signal needs to be spliced. The wire is cut and the ECU feeds the white wire, the Ignitor side gets connected to the new (gray) wires. Then the green wire feeds a new IGf signal to the ECU.
OK.......................?
wiring info is attached
software is here:
http://www.3si.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=61119
Ok, here's what's in the next intermediate/preliminary version. There is still some clean-up work to do, but the bulk of the work is done.
Spark control +5/-10 degrees. Full time (like an ITC), once you are above 1000 RPM.
Setting points 2000,2500,3000,.......8000
Part Throttle AF tracking using the wideband. I'm still tweaking it, but it works pretty darn well. I unplug my O2 sensors, and let this do the work. I set idle at 14.0, cruise at 14.7, and lean cruise at 16.0......
Config page is now all text labels for configuration, no more cryptic code numbers......
The "hold the button for 10 sec to get to the settings and config pages" stuff is gone.
Now, I don't have the XDF, or ADS files ready, but the 4.60 files still work ok for now...
Here is what you guys need to do. (in this order)
Update to the new version, and get it running well in the standard configuration. Be sure all your connections are good, or just solder everything.
Get the software configured for direct spark control (Set vehicle select to 2)
set the Spark advance tables for 0 at every point (both WOT and AUX)
Then add the wires to the harness. I am sending the wires and an extra 8-pin plug. If you already have a boost control harness, just add the wires. If not, insert the wires into the new 8-pin plug.
The White wire is currently tapping the IGt signal. This signal needs to be spliced. The wire is cut and the ECU feeds the white wire, the Ignitor side gets connected to the new (gray) wires. Then the green wire feeds a new IGf signal to the ECU.
OK.......................?
drjonez said:
yannis-supras said:
I agree with Dr Jones, if you do everything as per instructions you shouldn't have fuel cut. I'm running 550cc injectors and a 62-1 turbo and it's been up to 25psi now with no fuel cut and still at 10.5/1 af.
If someone has a upgraded ct26 and 550cc injectors it's doubtfull that the turbo could flow enough air to hit fuel cut no matter how much boost they run. That is unless something is electrically or mechanically wrong, the settings are off on the maft, or there was a big boost leak.
Ok Bob a question for the intelligence challenged :aigo: ; is there a specific harness and plugs for wiring the maft pro for the timing function or is it just a case of splicing/soldering some wire where you indicate?
; is there a specific harness and plugs for wiring the maft pro for the timing function or is it just a case of splicing/soldering some wire where you indicate?
Adam correct me if I'm wrong but I think what you just posted is the instructions for the timing monitor function not timing control that Bob posted just before.
yannis-supras said:
Yeah, I'm confused now :icon_conf
You would have to do the wiring diagram posted before, just having the g2 wire going to the maft pro would not give it the capability to change anything timing related.
yannis-supras said:
What I posted is for timing CONTROL. DJ is referring to the timing monitor.
There are a couple wires to add, I can send you a couple.
I am going to try to send out some timing control wires next week, I'll send you some thru DJ, since he has your shipping info.
B
