polobai said:quick questions-does the maftpro have a aux trigger so i can activate my meth kit with this unit, and does the throttle display show % throttle like the afc(0-100%), or does it show voltage of the tps (.4-4.7v)?
jtamulis said:Hey Bob and Dr.Jonez. What do you think about making a small feature so it
CAN do wideband tuning on its own, you just do a few runs, it tells you the
output, and you just "save" the corrections to default. Then it uses the
default values and if wideband tracking is re-enabled, it would not go leaner
than a certain point, thus providing a failsafe for tuning that everyone is saying
they want.
Jeff
drjonez said:...here are the currently supported WBs:
-innovate LC-1
-innovate LM-1
-AEM
-tech edge
-zietronix ZT2
-dynojet WB commander
while PLX is not explicited supported, it's factors may be similar to some of the above....if they're not it shouldn't be too big a deal to get it added...
jkbmkiii said:Got back from the dyno............
At 11 psi I hit 345whp and 354 tq
We ended up stopping because I need to change My spark plug gap From .31 to .25
Now I need to swap injectors.... And fix a few little problems and then I will go back and push more boost !!!!!
MAFT Pro is working....thanks everyone[/QU
How did you fix the problem you were having?
Installing mine this week.
Wayne
jkbmkiii said:Got back from the dyno............
At 11 psi I hit 345whp and 354 tq
can you give me more info on this mod? i have a maftpro with 4.40 and i still get code 24 and 32.NJsupraA70 said:If you stick a 2.2k resistor between THA and E2 on the afm connector it will get rid of your code 24 when using the maftpro. I got the idea from a vpc diagram somebody made. Bob had me originally do this at the harness, but this is easier. just figured I would share.
im sorry for this but could u explain why u would change that choice to the different ground? to be honest im seeing alot of different install info.. someone puts the pink wire there while the other guy puts the pink wire there and now you say that u would probably use the (E01,E02) instead of the E1.. not that u cant do your own thing but it would be nicer to have one way of wiring the main wires so we can all be on the same page.. :icon_biggdrjonez said:the pink wire doesn't matter, both B1+_ and B+ tie back to the EFI main relay....
i would probably use the power grounds (E01, E02) instead of E1 (computer ground).
i am having the same problems with the code 24 and 32.. what did u do to fix the problem? assuming u did fix them? thanksjkbmkiii said:Got back from the dyno............
At 11 psi I hit 345whp and 354 tq
We ended up stopping because I need to change My spark plug gap From .31 to .25
Now I need to swap injectors.... And fix a few little problems and then I will go back and push more boost !!!!!
MAFT Pro is working....thanks everyone
atlpd3147 said:im getting two different answers about this concern. on the wiring instructions the brown wire goes to THA on the engine harness and the word splice is used.. to summarize "splice the brown wire into the ecu side of the wire" does that mean to cut the THA wire on the harness in half and connect the end of the brown wire to the end of the THA wire that leads to the ecu while just leaving the other end of the ecu wire(going back to the engine side) not connected to anything like the KS wire?
jkbmkiii said:I still have bolth codes but the car is running great, but I still would like to take care of the codes problem still have bolth 24 and 32........