MAFT Pro - N/A install - Translator Mode

[elhsupra]

I have never ran the MAFTPro in Translator mode, only AFC and speed density. So everything I say might be wrong, but I looked at your log.
Your LS1 MAF appears to be wired corrected and your log shows a stable FI from the LS1 MAF. But what I did find interesting is the output from Vout 1. Seemed to be very sporadic. Your MAF_Mass Airflow was also all over the place. The MAF_Mass Airflow was also showing 440gm/s before the car was started. Something doesn't look right with that.
Probably a stupid question, but out of curiosity have you tried reseting the MAFTPro by pressing the two right buttons while powering on, and then reinput all your settings? There have been a random few that have had problems until they reset the MAFTPro. Just a thought, again I might be totally wrong.

 

[jetjock]

So I could just feed VS .1v and the code should clear up and it *shouldn't* have any adverse effects on the signal coming from the MAFT Pro, right?

You're learning. It's a stupid box, all it knows is signals and it could care less where they come from. I've run my engine off a frequency generator feeding into KS with the AFM sat in my kitchen collecting dust. Feed VS above .1 and below 4.8 vdc and it won't know from squat. Got a power supply? If not time for a AA cell me thinks.

An rpm relay needs switched key power, ground, and rpm input. You can get the rpm signal from the diag block or igniter. The relay's N.O. contacts are simply placed in series with the fuel pump control line you grounded. When the key is first turned the relay will pulse the pump for a second or to and then shut down because it's not getting rpm. When you crank it'll close because it is. Any lose of rpm thereafter will cause the relay to open within a second or two. It's how most of the old cars met the legal requirement for pump shutdown in a collision.

The other more simpler option is to use a "G" switch in the control line. Also cheap to come by, lots of cars used them. Won't give you priming like an rpm relay will but when you hit something hard it'll shut down the pump until manually reset. Not the best for quick getaways when you run down some mother pushing a stroller though...

 

[CRE]

Your LS1 MAF appears to be wired corrected and your log shows a stable FI from the LS1 MAF. But what I did find interesting is the output from Vout 1. Seemed to be very sporadic. Your MAF_Mass Airflow was also all over the place. The MAF_Mass Airflow was also showing 440gm/s before the car was started. Something doesn't look right with that.

V Out 1 and the MAF_Mass Airflow were what caught my eye as well. Where's the data for MAF_Mass Airflow come from? Is that the Maft Pro's calculation?

It is possible I f@#$ed up my MAFT Pro when I wired it up. I had V Out 1 briefly connected to VC instead of VS (same color wires, different stripe... and they're right next to eachother...:nono: ).

Tomorrow before I leave work I'll try and see if V Out 2 provides better results. I can't imagine why the MAF_Mass Airflow is showing 440 Grams/S before the car's even started... i don't know if it's supposed to do that.

The other thing that caught my eye is the Flow Error... it's showing between -98 and -99%. I have no idea where that's really supposed to be though, just seems odd.

I have tried resetting the MAFT Pro a couple times, but not in the past few days.

You're learning. It's a stupid box, all it knows is signals and it could care less where they come from. I've run my engine off a frequency generator feeding into KS with the AFM sat in my kitchen collecting dust. Feed VS above .1 and below 4.8 vdc and it won't know from squat. Got a power supply? If not time for a AA cell me thinks.

An rpm relay needs switched key power, ground, and rpm input. You can get the rpm signal from the diag block or igniter.

ROFL... a AA cell, I love it. No worries on the supply, I'm sure I've got the parts to build one... just need to remember how to buffer it for a fluctuating feed, my battery's not been feeling so hot.

The relay sounds like a piece of cake. I did a search though and all the ones I found specify a RPM range... so I guess they're not what I'm looking for.

 

[turbobob]

V Out 1 and the MAF_Mass Airflow were what caught my eye as well. Where's the data for MAF_Mass Airflow come from? Is that the Maft Pro's calculation?

It is possible I f@#$ed up my MAFT Pro when I wired it up. I had V Out 1 briefly connected to VC instead of VS (same color wires, different stripe... and they're right next to eachother...:nono: ).

Tomorrow before I leave work I'll try and see if V Out 2 provides better results. I can't imagine why the MAF_Mass Airflow is showing 440 Grams/S before the car's even started... i don't know if it's supposed to do that.

The other thing that caught my eye is the Flow Error... it's showing between -98 and -99%. I have no idea where that's really supposed to be though, just seems odd.

I have tried resetting the MAFT Pro a couple times, but not in the past few days.




ROFL... a AA cell, I love it. No worries on the supply, I'm sure I've got the parts to build one... just need to remember how to buffer it for a fluctuating feed, my battery's not been feeling so hot.

The relay sounds like a piece of cake. I did a search though and all the ones I found specify a RPM range... so I guess they're not what I'm looking for.

I have not looked at the logfile yet.

MAF MassAirflow is the MAF input, but if you have the F-In mode set to a MAF, and aux input set to a MAF its going to be unhappy. Perhaps thats the issue. The MAF MassAirflow should be well behaved.

Yes, you may have broken it. But it should be easy to tell if its working or not...

The flow error calcuates the difference betwwen the MAF and Speed Density. No MAP sensor = No speed density airflow.

You can use the boost control output to run the fuel pump relay.

Bob

 

[jetjock]

Sounds like you came up with whats called a "window relay". They're used to switch things off and on when the rpm is within a certain range. Not what I meant. Try searching on tacho-relay or rpm relay. Common parts on older Volvos and German cars. The G switch would be a lot easier. Less wiring and easier to locate on the car.

 

[turbobob]

He could also use an oil pressure switch to run the fuel pump..... Many ways to do this.

 

[CRE]

I have not looked at the logfile yet.

MAF MassAirflow is the MAF input, but if you have the F-In mode set to a MAF, and aux input set to a MAF its going to be unhappy. Perhaps thats the issue. The MAF MassAirflow should be well behaved.

You can use the boost control output to run the fuel pump relay.

Bob

Okay, I had Aux 1 Mode set to Toyota VAF.... that'd probably explain why it was bouncing back and forth. I just tested it here on my desktop and it did make a big difference. Nothing's connected to it at the moment, but comparing with Aux 1 set and not set the readings reverse for Vout1 and MAF_Mass Airflow. Now MAF_Mass Airflow shows just 1.16 g/s and Vout1 shows 4.49v as opposed to 440 g/s and .28v. The thing I'm wondering about is the voltage? Does the AFMs voltage output go lower as airflow increases? I thought it went up.... we'll see I guess, the TSRM isn't the best when it comes to the little details.

Boost control output, which pin is it? Pin 8 on the 8 pin harness? I'll probably stick with a tacho relay, but I'm planning on doing a clean write up on all of this for others once I get everything nailed down, so I should include it.

Thanks for getting back to me on this Bob. As I said, I plan on a nice clean write up after I get this running well, so hopefully you'll only have to deal with explaining this particular setup this one time.



EDIT: As for the fuel pump, I think the tacho's the best bet...at least for me. I think I found a Bosch P/N for an Audi... I'll look into that later. It wouldn't be hard to set up a comparator using the Vout1 as the reference either... many ways to do this.

 

[jetjock]

Sure nuff. I like the rpm relay because of the priming but as long as he gets sufficient oil pressure while cranking why not. Need something to avoid becoming a crispy critter. There's always a halon fire bottle system too

 

[turbobob]

Okay, I had Aux 1 Mode set to Toyota VAF.... that'd probably explain why it was bouncing back and forth. I just tested it here on my desktop and it did make a big difference. Nothing's connected to it at the moment, but comparing with Aux 1 set and not set the readings reverse for Vout1 and MAF_Mass Airflow. Now MAF_Mass Airflow shows just 1.16 g/s and Vout1 shows 4.49v as opposed to 440 g/s and .28v. The thing I'm wondering about is the voltage? Does the AFMs voltage output go lower as airflow increases? I thought it went up.... we'll see I guess, the TSRM isn't the best when it comes to the little details.

Boost control output, which pin is it? Pin 8 on the 8 pin harness? I'll probably stick with a tacho relay, but I'm planning on doing a clean write up on all of this for others once I get everything nailed down, so I should include it.

Thanks for getting back to me on this Bob. As I said, I plan on a nice clean write up after I get this running well, so hopefully you'll only have to deal with explaining this particular setup this one time.

My data on the VAF is a falling output, but, if its wrong its an easy fix.....
Since you are using an analog out for the MAF out, the green wire (F Out) could be programmed to run the fuel pump. Including a prime timer (GM style)...

B

 

[CRE]

My data on the VAF is a falling output, but, if its wrong its an easy fix.....
Since you are using an analog out for the MAF out, the green wire (F Out) could be programmed to run the fuel pump. Including a prime timer (GM style)...

B

Cool, my VAF is in my car at the moment so I couldn't test it. I just assumed, for (insert name of diety of choice here) knows what reason, that the resistance dropped as the aiflow increased.... I had nothing to base that on, so don't give it another thought.

I'm interested in the idea of an output with a prime timer.... let's look into that, please? Especially useful here since the N/A Supras are the only ones using a VAF... a one stop solution. I really like that.

 

[elhsupra]

My data on the VAF is a falling output, but, if its wrong its an easy fix.....

Resistance rises as the VAF opens. Not sure if that also means voltage rises or falls. But the "hint" also states resistance changes in a wave pattern. Hope this link helps:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=95

 

[CRE]

New logged session: Session 3
ADL: http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/7M-GE LS-1 Datalog1.adl

The car seems to be running VERY well. Of course I haven't taken it out on the road with the Maft Pro running yet, but overall everything feels alot smoother than it does with the hacked up AFM I've been running.

The O2 tends to bounce around alot in the lower RPM, is this normal? With the stock VAF the car doesn't lop so much at idle... I think something needs tweaked, but I'm not sure what.

Would some of you maft pro guys take a look at the log and let me know how things look?

Thanks!

Oh, and it was just the Aux1 setting that was causing trouble.

 

[elhsupra]

New logged session: Session 3
ADL: http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/7M-GE LS-1 Datalog1.adl

The car seems to be running VERY well. Of course I haven't taken it out on the road with the Maft Pro running yet, but overall everything feels alot smoother than it does with the hacked up AFM I've been running.

The O2 tends to bounce around alot in the lower RPM, is this normal? With the stock VAF the car doesn't lop so much at idle... I think something needs tweaked, but I'm not sure what.

Would some of you maft pro guys take a look at the log and let me know how things look?

Thanks!

Oh, and it was just the Aux1 setting that was causing trouble.

Congrats!
As far as the O2, If I remeber right from your wiring diagram, your getting your O2 input from the factory O2 connector at the ECU. Narrowband O2 sensors tend to fluctuate greatly outside of a very narrow window of 14.7:1
Would recommend you pickup a wideband O2 (like the LC-1 from the group buy). One output can feed a wideband signal to the MAFTPro for you to tune with, the other output can feed a narrowband signal to the OEM ECU.
Of course if you decide to take advantage of the MAFTPro part throttle tracking, you will need to disconnect the OEM O2 sensor anyway.:bigthumb:

 

[CRE]

I'd love to pickup a LC-1 right now.... just can't afford it at the moment.

Tomorrow, I'm going to finish cutting down the rest of my intake pipes and try this baby out on the road.

Bob, any idea how long its going to be before you can add the fuel pump control for us (well, just me at the moment) N/As? If its going to be a while I'll try to find a tacho relay at the junk yard to use for the time being.

 

[turbobob]

Bob, any idea how long its going to be before you can add the fuel pump control for us (well, just me at the moment) N/As? If its going to be a while I'll try to find a tacho relay at the junk yard to use for the time being.

Its done, just not tested........ Both my Pro's are outside in the cars at the moment, gotta drag one inside and check the software tweak... couple days probably

 

[CRE]

Its done, just not tested........ Both my Pro's are outside in the cars at the moment, gotta drag one inside and check the software tweak... couple days probably

Damn Bob, you're a god! I really can't wait to get this setup finalized and drive it around a bit. Just throttling it up in the parking garage at work it seemed quite different... It could just be the fact that I've been driving on a fairly beaten up AFM. Regardless it should be a vast improvement.

 

[drjonez]

good to hear you have things nearly sorted out....

 

[CRE]

good to hear you have things nearly sorted out....

Yep, looking good. Hindsight it should have been a walk in the park... a writeup would've come in handy.... I guess thaty's my job now. :biglaugh:

The best part... I didn't break anything!!!


BTW - I was thinking it might be a good idea to reset the ECU once I have this completely installed. Is there any reason I should hold off?

 

[drjonez]

eh, no real point....but sure, why not?

 

[turbobob]

BTW - I was thinking it might be a good idea to reset the ECU once I have this completely installed. Is there any reason I should hold off?

Resetting the ECU is a good idea, so any learned adjustments 'recenter'. This way (theoretically) as you tune you will be closer to 'correct'....

B