Bob, I think I might have misunderstood one thing in what you're asking for. When you ask for the Vout with the VAF connected, you don't mean with both the Toyota AFM and the LS-1 MAF do you? Just the MAFT Pro and the stock AFM, right?
MAFT Pro - N/A install - Translator Mode
- Thread starter CRE
- Start date
CRE said:
FI = 0........ somethings up there. Did someone mod your unit for timing monitor?
FI is the frequency input and a 3.5" MAF should idle @ 3000 hz or so.
Remember, the GM MAF needs 12 volts to run. The Toyota VAF runs on 5, so check your wiring.
B
The LS-1 MAF was not connected when I pulled those values.... so I assume that's why the FI is 0. I don't have the MAF with me so I'll check with both Toyota AFM and LS-1 MAF connected in the morning.
Is that a newer version of the 4.80 update? Tuner Pro reports my Maft Pro as ver 4.79T <-- Nevermind on this one I just updated and now it reports as 4.80T in TunerPro. Thanks.
Oh, and no mods have been made to the Maft Pro.
Is that a newer version of the 4.80 update? Tuner Pro reports my Maft Pro as ver 4.79T <-- Nevermind on this one I just updated and now it reports as 4.80T in TunerPro. Thanks.
Oh, and no mods have been made to the Maft Pro.
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CRE said:
any codes when this happens?
just to verifiy:
-MAF output connected to MAFT pro 10 pin connector pin 8 (MAF input, Fin or FI)
-MAFT pro analog out 1, 10 pin connector pin 6 connected to ECU pin Vs
-AFM connector pin Fc jumpered to E1 (turns on circuit opening relay)
drjonez said:
The only code is, of course, 24. BUT, I thought you had told me previously to ground Fc, nothing about jumping it to E1.... perhaps that's the sum of the problem.
I've got to head out to run a couple errands. I'll be back at my dad's (he has a garage... it's warmer there) and able to check more of this out in about 1.5 hrs.
If changing the routing of Fc doesn't do it I can post screen caps from TunerPro, with both the stock AFM and the LS-1 MAF connected. Should make things quicker than reading them all off the MAFT Pro's screen.
CRE said:
hmmmmm. no other codes? that's interesting. one would think if the AFM input wasn't getting there you'd see a code for it.
E1 IS ground.
do you have any of the timing stuff hooked up?
No timing control hooked up... for now.
I've got both the LS-1 and the stock AFM hooked up and running right now. I verified the LS-1 MAF's voltage at 14.05. I'll grab a screen capture from Tuner Pro right now.
I've got both the LS-1 and the stock AFM hooked up and running right now. I verified the LS-1 MAF's voltage at 14.05. I'll grab a screen capture from Tuner Pro right now.
Well crap.... for some reason I' can't connect to my MAFT Pro with my laptop now... it worked fine every other time.
Anyway, I'm still getting FI = 0. I double checked my wiring... perhaps I have the pinout for the LS-1 wrong? There are three wires: Green, Black, Pink. I have Black as ground, Green as Signal (feeds the yellow wire on the MAFT Pro's 10-pin harness), and Pink as 12V+. Is that right?
EDIT: Okay, I moved the Green line from the MAF to the green line on the 10 pin. I believe. The yellow wire was connected to in error. I'm still getting nothing on FI though.
Anyway, I'm still getting FI = 0. I double checked my wiring... perhaps I have the pinout for the LS-1 wrong? There are three wires: Green, Black, Pink. I have Black as ground, Green as Signal (feeds the yellow wire on the MAFT Pro's 10-pin harness), and Pink as 12V+. Is that right?
EDIT: Okay, I moved the Green line from the MAF to the green line on the 10 pin. I believe. The yellow wire was connected to in error. I'm still getting nothing on FI though.
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Okay guys, I'm a little confused here. Bob said nothing connects to the 6 pin harness, but in the manual it says that pin #6 on the 6 pin harness is the Aux 1 trigger.... isn't that what's supposed to be outputting signal to the ECU?
Also, isn't there supposed to be a connection to the O2 sensor? Or not if I'm just running in translator mode? I went off my notes from talking to you guys more than the manual when I wired this up and it now seems like there are a number of conflicts in how it's wired versus the manual's directions.
Screw it... I'm cold. I'm packing up and going home. I'll deal with this later.
Also, isn't there supposed to be a connection to the O2 sensor? Or not if I'm just running in translator mode? I went off my notes from talking to you guys more than the manual when I wired this up and it now seems like there are a number of conflicts in how it's wired versus the manual's directions.
Screw it... I'm cold. I'm packing up and going home. I'll deal with this later.
Okay, I've gone back over the wiring and here's where I'm at: (click for a larger view)
I recall a few differences from how my system is wired... I think I made the mistake of looking at guides on here concerning MAP setups with the GTE electronics and the manual (the purple wire from the 6 pin header I had connected).
So, the question is, is this how I need to wire everything up?
I recall a few differences from how my system is wired... I think I made the mistake of looking at guides on here concerning MAP setups with the GTE electronics and the manual (the purple wire from the 6 pin header I had connected).
So, the question is, is this how I need to wire everything up?
i don't have a MAF here to compare, but IIRC the pinouts should be:
A- MAF output
B- gnd
C- 12V
if you look @ the manual v1.0, page 12 has the MAF translation connections- it shows the TPS input jumpered to the MAP input (pin 2 of 6 pin connector). other than that, everything looks good.
A- MAF output
B- gnd
C- 12V
if you look @ the manual v1.0, page 12 has the MAF translation connections- it shows the TPS input jumpered to the MAP input (pin 2 of 6 pin connector). other than that, everything looks good.
drjonez said:
Yeah, I've gotten REAL familiar with that page. Remember, Bob said that nothing on the 6 pin harness is connected... unless I misunderstood.
CRE said:
Note about USB to Serial adapters:
The most popular and successful adapter people with the MAFT Pro are using is the one sold by Sewell. This adapter is actually made by another manufacturer (whose name escapes me, presently). They're sold by a few different companies, QVS is another. I own the adapter marketed by QVS. You can find these VERY inexpensively... I bought mine from MicroCenter on sale for about $15 (same as the sewell, but no wait time or s/h).
I had been having intermittent results with it on my latop, but not on my desktop. I realized why tonight. On my laptop I had installed the driver included with the adapter. With my desktop, I couldn't find the provided CD, I sought out the driver online and found one from GoodWay Technology. Their driver has proven to work for me without fail. Unless I receive a notice
(to stop mirroring the download) I will post it for download here. I believe this may be the same adapter Sewell includes with their adapter.
This driver may work with other adapters which use the Prolific chipset.
I hope this helps anyone who might need to find a compatible adapter locally in a pinch.
Update:
Well, fixed my wiring today, I had mistakenly connected Pin 6 from the 10 pin harness to VC instead of VS. Now the car actually tries to run, but it seems like it's getting flooded. FI is still reporting "0". The only difference from the diagram I put together above is I have both the MAFT Pro and MAF grounded at E2 instead of E1. FC is also grounded at E1.
Also, I can no longer rung the car with the MAFT Pro connected with the stock AFM connected (so I presume the signal's being modified now, as it should).
I can't get a log at the moment, my laptop's battery died (completely)and I don't have an extension cord long enough to run out from my apartment. If you need more data I'll try to get the rest of the monitor data this week.
Any ideas? I'll test the MAF's wiring for continuity as soon as I get a chance. Is there anything else I need to be looking at? Are we 100% agreed that the wiring in the diagram is correct?
Well, fixed my wiring today, I had mistakenly connected Pin 6 from the 10 pin harness to VC instead of VS. Now the car actually tries to run, but it seems like it's getting flooded. FI is still reporting "0". The only difference from the diagram I put together above is I have both the MAFT Pro and MAF grounded at E2 instead of E1. FC is also grounded at E1.
Also, I can no longer rung the car with the MAFT Pro connected with the stock AFM connected (so I presume the signal's being modified now, as it should).
I can't get a log at the moment, my laptop's battery died (completely)and I don't have an extension cord long enough to run out from my apartment. If you need more data I'll try to get the rest of the monitor data this week.
Any ideas? I'll test the MAF's wiring for continuity as soon as I get a chance. Is there anything else I need to be looking at? Are we 100% agreed that the wiring in the diagram is correct?
CRE said:
that's a bit concerning as Vc is the 5V reference for the TPS + AFM. i'll have to talk to bob about what that may/may not have done to the MAFT pro....or the ECU.
while E2 should work, i would use E1. E2 = sensor ground, E1 = computer ground (i.e. ECU ground...).
CRE said:
so is that w/the MAF connected as well? the car should run as normal w/the MAFT pro powered and the MAFT pro NOT connected to Vs.
make sure Vout1 is set to toyota VAF.
The car's running as well as it had been, no issues other than all the unneeded fuel being poured into the intake. The car won't run with the MAF and/or the MAFT Pro connected, nor will it run with the MAFT Pro connected and just the stock AFM connected (I'd expected that much since I'd need to change the Fin to an AuxIn). So, I'm sure the ECU's fine. Do you happend to know if there's a diode on that line? If there is and that's blown I can swap that out myself. <--- Nevermind, there's not.
As for the ground I asked you about that before and (I thought) you said it shouldn't be a problem. I can see how it may be a bit much for that particular ground to handle though, so I will switch it.
EDIT: Oh, and Vout1 is set to Toyota VAF. It looks like the first issue (hopefully the only issue) is that the MAFT Pro isn't registering any signal from the MAF (FI=0). It seems the ECU is getting a signal from the MAFT Pro though, this is only based on the fact that now that I have the correct line spliced (VS) the car is behaving differently than before.
As for the ground I asked you about that before and (I thought) you said it shouldn't be a problem. I can see how it may be a bit much for that particular ground to handle though, so I will switch it.
EDIT: Oh, and Vout1 is set to Toyota VAF. It looks like the first issue (hopefully the only issue) is that the MAFT Pro isn't registering any signal from the MAF (FI=0). It seems the ECU is getting a signal from the MAFT Pro though, this is only based on the fact that now that I have the correct line spliced (VS) the car is behaving differently than before.
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Dr.Jonez, Bob,
A couple questions. How much current should the LS-1 MAF draw when the engine's off? I have a feeling the first thing I need to look at is the MAF. Regardless of how Aux1 was connected shouldn't I have still seen something in the monitor for FI? Yes, I know it's presumptious and that such things are entirely dependant upon the design of the circuit. But what's the harm in being hopeful?
A couple questions. How much current should the LS-1 MAF draw when the engine's off? I have a feeling the first thing I need to look at is the MAF. Regardless of how Aux1 was connected shouldn't I have still seen something in the monitor for FI? Yes, I know it's presumptious and that such things are entirely dependant upon the design of the circuit. But what's the harm in being hopeful?