The sealed box nesseccary? I remove the plastic tray on the right rear and put a 15lb Braille battery with Braille mount. Can't even tell it's there and only had to cut about a 1in off the wood.
jdmfreak's A NEW BEGINNING (BUILD THREAD)
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That's the same switch I have. Works good. Just be sure to run two wires when doing the main cable for the alternator. I like to use 14g speaker wire for that job.
2ga seems a little light but I tend to overkill.
If you plan to ever run the drag strip, I think the sealed battery box is required per NHRA.
Im also running the Moroso remote disconnect rod that turns it into a push/pull and mounted the switch inside the battery box. The rod sticks through the drivers area by the tail light. I'm able to take it out so your Buddy's don't turn it off when your out and about town, and draws less attention.
2ga seems a little light but I tend to overkill.
If you plan to ever run the drag strip, I think the sealed battery box is required per NHRA.
Im also running the Moroso remote disconnect rod that turns it into a push/pull and mounted the switch inside the battery box. The rod sticks through the drivers area by the tail light. I'm able to take it out so your Buddy's don't turn it off when your out and about town, and draws less attention.
Why 2 wires? Guess I could just look up the schematic it's probably obvious
Iirc #2 is good for a 200 amp welder at 50'.... I figured it was overkill without being too overkill at 14' long but it's cheaper to upsize now than later
Yeah sealed battery box is required per NHRA and as much as I prefer the looks of your setup hvyman I like the added safety
Nathan Do you have pics of how you did yours?
Iirc #2 is good for a 200 amp welder at 50'.... I figured it was overkill without being too overkill at 14' long but it's cheaper to upsize now than later
Yeah sealed battery box is required per NHRA and as much as I prefer the looks of your setup hvyman I like the added safety
Nathan Do you have pics of how you did yours?
I'll double check my wire size at lunch. Its a super flexible XSpower cable, about twice as flexible as welding cable, so a smaller size can handle a wee bit more amps.
I'll find a picture of my setup for ya. And the two smaller wires are for the alternator.. You run from the dash back to the switch, then from the switch to the alternator. I actually run two pairs of the speaker wire. This way you can have constant power for your stereo and other things if you need.
I'll find a picture of my setup for ya. And the two smaller wires are for the alternator.. You run from the dash back to the switch, then from the switch to the alternator. I actually run two pairs of the speaker wire. This way you can have constant power for your stereo and other things if you need.
I dunno Shawn, I would almost run with the alternator during drag racing. The difference between pump output at 13.5v vs 12v is significant. The couple horsepower you may lose powering an alternator will give you that extra headroom you might need running larger injectors and pump.
Edit: here is some more data for you to chew on... http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm
Edit: here is some more data for you to chew on... http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm
We're talking about hooking the alternator to the killswitch so the killswitch will actually do its kob:-D
Oh okay. I thought you were talking about running an alternator disconnect so you could electrically remove it to save a couple hp for racing. It didn't make any sense in my head. Sorry, my mistake!
Here's a link to Supraforums where I posted some pretty clear shots and description of what I did.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...battery-cut-off-switch..&highlight=nathaninwa
I made the box, its sealed and has a vent hose coming out the bottom of the trunk well. I was inspected this summer at IFO, and tho they said it wasnt nhra approved, it was better than and took pics of it to take to headquarters!
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...battery-cut-off-switch..&highlight=nathaninwa
I made the box, its sealed and has a vent hose coming out the bottom of the trunk well. I was inspected this summer at IFO, and tho they said it wasnt nhra approved, it was better than and took pics of it to take to headquarters!
Thanks, nathan
this shielded pair will work for my cam sensor and knock sensors...correct???????
i was given alot of it
this shielded pair will work for my cam sensor and knock sensors...correct???????
i was given alot of it
Yes, that cable will work. Make sure to only ground the one end that closest to MS to sensor ground.
What battery you plan on running?
What battery you plan on running?
As far as wiring goes Just down to injectors and finishing coils(got to mount them somewhere)
And a couple wires in the cab
And a couple wires in the cab
It's possible to wire ANYTHING backwards trust me on this one
I'll have faith when it starts and runs with 0 issues!
I'll have faith when it starts and runs with 0 issues!
Does the 7m CAS have a vr sensor inside? Did you make sure you got + and - wired correctly?
And I have this setup. I can cad up and cut a coil holder if you would like. I have an NA head and there is no extra holes unless you use the valve cover bolts. So my idea is to place a 14mm bolt in the hex plugs and weld them inplace, and use that as a stud. Could also put a 3/8 nut inside and weld a 8mm bolt thread to it to downsize a little. I could make all this but would need your plugs back as cores.
And I have this setup. I can cad up and cut a coil holder if you would like. I have an NA head and there is no extra holes unless you use the valve cover bolts. So my idea is to place a 14mm bolt in the hex plugs and weld them inplace, and use that as a stud. Could also put a 3/8 nut inside and weld a 8mm bolt thread to it to downsize a little. I could make all this but would need your plugs back as cores.
