I have a well equipped machine shop here at home but I figure why spend an hour making something if I can buy it off the shelf and have it installed in seconds 
is it just me or...
- Thread starter Atsushi7mgte
- Start date
Keros said:
Best statement ever..
The oil filter is the easiest thing I removed... much like Poodles said.
With the right clamp tool from underneath wedged it in and twisted and then with my arm... no more than 5minutes? including jacking it up on one side... and getting under and undoing it. Nothing really to it...
gilberjj said:
I'm a bodybuilder with 18'' arms pumped, don't see where it would be hard, if the gut was getting in the way then thats another story.
oilfilter isn't bad.. get an oil filter 'socket' and an extension.... though it does suck pulling the filter down through..
lol at normal people built it in an assembly line coment.. so was the 300zx & 3000gt vr4...
lol at normal people built it in an assembly line coment.. so was the 300zx & 3000gt vr4...
True, but it's the statement that ALL cars are easy if you follow directions.
It's when clueless people start working on their cars that we get issues...
It's when clueless people start working on their cars that we get issues...
lol, the filter is easy... especially when you relocate it.
the 3rd gen f-body dist isnt that bad... ive had one and did Accel coil and cap and rotor shits on it. im just glad the 4th gen didnt have a dist like that.
the turbo actually has TWO stays. one that bolts from the top of the turbine to the head. the other is the longer bar that bolts to the side of the turbine to the side of the engine mount. /debate
the turbo comes off easily with a 12" extension, 12mm deep and ratchet. the socket runs straight next to the drain pipe. toyota curved it like Forrest Gump's back just for this reason. i do the feed like w/ the same extension but a 17mm short and sometimes a short cheater bar. those banjos like to stick sometimes. the easiest way i found is to get a Gearwrench for the turbine flange nuts, and to bash in the rear heat sheild next to the turbo.
the coil pack... you dont bolt down. you dont need the chassis ground on the coil pack either. the throttle linkage comes off in like a minute. pop off the bar, the small 10mm and the two 12mm nuts on the side. lay it over the master cyl.
the hardest things for me are doing the starters w/ the Nuts and bolts, and R&R the tranny while the motor is in the car. aligning it is the difficult part.
the t-stat housing uses an reusable Rubber O-ring so i dont feel bad about removing it to take the t-belt cover off. however, i split my cover in 2 pieces so it resembles a JZ cover so its NBD really.
the UICP, you dont bolt down either. you dont bolt the PCV or the ISC pipes to it either; if you want to be quick. the ISC pipe can swing up out of the way after just removing one end from the intake. the UICP comes off w/ one clamp at the TB and the clamp at the fender. i dont get why people take it off in pieces.
injectors on my usdm 7M's, i do with just a 12mm box end and a 12mm short socket... after removing the feed and return lines. the rail just has to come up about 1/2". using pliers, wiggle the injectors out of the rail, turn them sideways and lift out. installation is opposite of removal.
btw, anyone notice that the injector grommets from Vato Zone are O-rings? also, has anyone use the HELP! kit of injector grommets? comes with units similar to ours, ford, dodge, and other style o-rings. the grommets like ours have a much smaller OD than stock and dont seal right. only way i could do it was to take the OLD upper O-rings and slide them over the tip as a shim first, then install the new "wrong" grommets. then new Orings at the top. they always work for me like that... but idk, i feel bad about using the wrong part.
the 3rd gen f-body dist isnt that bad... ive had one and did Accel coil and cap and rotor shits on it. im just glad the 4th gen didnt have a dist like that.
the turbo actually has TWO stays. one that bolts from the top of the turbine to the head. the other is the longer bar that bolts to the side of the turbine to the side of the engine mount. /debate
the turbo comes off easily with a 12" extension, 12mm deep and ratchet. the socket runs straight next to the drain pipe. toyota curved it like Forrest Gump's back just for this reason. i do the feed like w/ the same extension but a 17mm short and sometimes a short cheater bar. those banjos like to stick sometimes. the easiest way i found is to get a Gearwrench for the turbine flange nuts, and to bash in the rear heat sheild next to the turbo.
the coil pack... you dont bolt down. you dont need the chassis ground on the coil pack either. the throttle linkage comes off in like a minute. pop off the bar, the small 10mm and the two 12mm nuts on the side. lay it over the master cyl.
the hardest things for me are doing the starters w/ the Nuts and bolts, and R&R the tranny while the motor is in the car. aligning it is the difficult part.
the t-stat housing uses an reusable Rubber O-ring so i dont feel bad about removing it to take the t-belt cover off. however, i split my cover in 2 pieces so it resembles a JZ cover so its NBD really.
the UICP, you dont bolt down either. you dont bolt the PCV or the ISC pipes to it either; if you want to be quick. the ISC pipe can swing up out of the way after just removing one end from the intake. the UICP comes off w/ one clamp at the TB and the clamp at the fender. i dont get why people take it off in pieces.
injectors on my usdm 7M's, i do with just a 12mm box end and a 12mm short socket... after removing the feed and return lines. the rail just has to come up about 1/2". using pliers, wiggle the injectors out of the rail, turn them sideways and lift out. installation is opposite of removal.
btw, anyone notice that the injector grommets from Vato Zone are O-rings? also, has anyone use the HELP! kit of injector grommets? comes with units similar to ours, ford, dodge, and other style o-rings. the grommets like ours have a much smaller OD than stock and dont seal right. only way i could do it was to take the OLD upper O-rings and slide them over the tip as a shim first, then install the new "wrong" grommets. then new Orings at the top. they always work for me like that... but idk, i feel bad about using the wrong part.
45minutes, That says more about your mechanical skill than it dose about the 7MBlackMKIII said:
A set of gearwrenches is a NECESSITY for these cars, and will forever be in my toolbox (love em for other things as well).
Tranny is stupid easy to drop if you have a tranny jack (it's WORTH the $100 I got it for on sale at harbour freight). Getting the car up high enough in the air is the tough part and requires playing musical jackstands...
Tranny is stupid easy to drop if you have a tranny jack (it's WORTH the $100 I got it for on sale at harbour freight). Getting the car up high enough in the air is the tough part and requires playing musical jackstands...
lol... ive been doing it w/ just a floor jack and alot of swearing. its pretty challenging balancing a 125lb chunk on a pad less than 3" diameter.
Exactly why I didn't do it that way. Trust me, lining it back up was a damn CAKEWALK and it was MANY times easier than pulling the whole engine. I cna benchpress about that much at least, but I didn't want to test it with the tranny full of fluid (took the slip yoke off of another driveshaft to seal it, it stays in really well)
Oh, and to remove the turbo heatsheild easier, remove the charcoal canister and bracket (5 bolts and 2 lines).
Oh, and to remove the turbo heatsheild easier, remove the charcoal canister and bracket (5 bolts and 2 lines).
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
BUY IT
harbour freight is your friend...
BTW, the rubber pads for the jackstands don't do shit, the jackpoint cut the damn things in half!!
harbour freight is your friend...
BTW, the rubber pads for the jackstands don't do shit, the jackpoint cut the damn things in half!!
havnt done a whooole lot of mechanic stuff on the 7m, but the oil filter is easy! just had to add that in since several ppl said it was hard
I said 45 minutes because I usually break ONE bolt every time I've taken off the throttle body. 21 year old bolt heads don't like me.
15-20 minutes if it's JUST plugs. the extra time is spent drilling/tapping/removing the bolt body. :biglaugh:
15-20 minutes if it's JUST plugs. the extra time is spent drilling/tapping/removing the bolt body. :biglaugh: