If yur making BIG F'n power, please look, I have ???s
- Thread starter Reign_Maker
- Start date
Jake I would say go with something like an AEM EMS piggybacks are too riskey with that kinda power.
I still need to get down there and see that monster sometime man.
Jake
I still need to get down there and see that monster sometime man.
Jake
Jake, how are those tires workin out for ya? 
Im definately going to research the various stand alones... I would like simplicity... Ive heard tuning nightmares about the AEM... They offer classes on how to use the thing... Man... Im going to look into the Maft Pro, for one reason, if I understand correctly, it can auto tune... Thats the simplicity Im looking for...
Im definately going to research the various stand alones... I would like simplicity... Ive heard tuning nightmares about the AEM... They offer classes on how to use the thing... Man... Im going to look into the Maft Pro, for one reason, if I understand correctly, it can auto tune... Thats the simplicity Im looking for...
Can the maft do anything for timing??? I haven't followed the threads on it enough...If not that's a big mark against it, especially with your goals.
Imo you should never cut corners on fuel and management.
Imo you should never cut corners on fuel and management.
Reign_Maker said:
From what I've read, Dr Jonez is working on monitoring the timing & possibly controlling it later. You should read his "MAFT Pro is working" thread, lots of good info.
Reign_Maker said:Jake, how are those tires workin out for ya?
Im definately going to research the various stand alones... I would like simplicity... Ive heard tuning nightmares about the AEM... They offer classes on how to use the thing... Man... Im going to look into the Maft Pro, for one reason, if I understand correctly, it can auto tune... Thats the simplicity Im looking for...
Tuning nightmares? More like incompetent tuners. Real tuning nightmares are two computers fighting for control and melting your engine.
Simplicity is not what you need. You need something that can properly control the engine you want to build. If you can't tune it, you'll need to find someone who can tune it for you.
Hey Jake i say we should slap one of those ebay elec suprachargers on the intake that would free up airflow to the turbo. You will be in the 700 hp range with no tuning. Hell i am shooting for a running supra right now.
I put down between 660 and 713 rwhp on different dynos w/ a SP74 and all boost when I had my car. A stand alone will get you every ounce of power out of the car, but stock ecu w/ piggybacks can still make very serious numbers. My car just had pistons, arp hardware, HKS mhg and web cam cams w/ a standalone and 1000 cc inj.
The trick is keeping the car all together. I don't care what car you have, when you mod it this highly, stuff will break. I would recomend getting 1/2" head studs like the mkiv guys do, and getting 9:1 comp pistons for added power(although most will not agree w/ me).
And yes, it's a shame that the top guy on 7m never drove the car at that level. I have never ran lower than 31 psi after I got my car tuned untill I sold it. Why make all that power and never use it? I could have ran a 15:1 afr run once or 50 lbs on the dyno to make stupid numbers to brag about (like 90% of the mkiv guys). I should have left my car up on 7mpower instead of taking it down...
The trick is keeping the car all together. I don't care what car you have, when you mod it this highly, stuff will break. I would recomend getting 1/2" head studs like the mkiv guys do, and getting 9:1 comp pistons for added power(although most will not agree w/ me).
And yes, it's a shame that the top guy on 7m never drove the car at that level. I have never ran lower than 31 psi after I got my car tuned untill I sold it. Why make all that power and never use it? I could have ran a 15:1 afr run once or 50 lbs on the dyno to make stupid numbers to brag about (like 90% of the mkiv guys). I should have left my car up on 7mpower instead of taking it down...
You really get A Viper Kevin?
Jake, AEM EMS is the way to go. As far as simplicity goes, plug it in, tune.
But of course you want to switch to speed density, so you have to rewire for that.
The thing with EMS is that people think that you can plug it in and race. That is NOT the case. It took months to get my dad's supra to run like it should. But we were running a civic box because AEM didn't support us yet I've never seen a T88 spool like it does in his car though. On the street tuning on pump gas, pulling fuel in vaccum and adding timing aggressively to make the windmill turn gave us 21 psi by 4000 RPM. When we took it to the track, we went by the "shift when the power lets off" mentality. Looking back at the logs, that was 8400 rpm. With stock cams. It's ALL in the tune. Ron has been tuning his car conservitively for YEARS to keep his $4000 rods from dying. If you want to plug in a magic box and make 700 hp. It's not going to happen.
The thing I like about AEM is knock monitering. that way you can advance timing until knock, and back it off to be safe. There are so many failsafe features, like fuel automapping, knock control, EGT control. All of these things can save your motor. Or make it run like shit if you don't know how to utilize them. I suggest you get the AEM software, (it's free) and play around with it. Traction control, Nitrous control, Boost control, you name it. No piggy back comes close. And if all else fails, fly Sean McElderly out to tune it for you. He is the Man. Also, get a FFIM from Ron.
Jake, AEM EMS is the way to go. As far as simplicity goes, plug it in, tune.
But of course you want to switch to speed density, so you have to rewire for that.
The thing with EMS is that people think that you can plug it in and race. That is NOT the case. It took months to get my dad's supra to run like it should. But we were running a civic box because AEM didn't support us yet
I've never seen a T88 spool like it does in his car though. On the street tuning on pump gas, pulling fuel in vaccum and adding timing aggressively to make the windmill turn gave us 21 psi by 4000 RPM. When we took it to the track, we went by the "shift when the power lets off" mentality. Looking back at the logs, that was 8400 rpm. With stock cams. It's ALL in the tune. Ron has been tuning his car conservitively for YEARS to keep his $4000 rods from dying. If you want to plug in a magic box and make 700 hp. It's not going to happen. The thing I like about AEM is knock monitering. that way you can advance timing until knock, and back it off to be safe. There are so many failsafe features, like fuel automapping, knock control, EGT control. All of these things can save your motor. Or make it run like shit if you don't know how to utilize them. I suggest you get the AEM software, (it's free) and play around with it. Traction control, Nitrous control, Boost control, you name it. No piggy back comes close. And if all else fails, fly Sean McElderly out to tune it for you. He is the Man. Also, get a FFIM from Ron.
Kevin, does the 7M block have enough meat for 1/2 inch studs? I don't know of anyone who runs them, and thought maybe that's why they didn't...
group a supra
SPAWNING AN INTERCEPTOR
GPA, I've got the info. Shoot me a pm later. I noticed that the MKIV guys were doing this, but I hadn't come to that point in my build to check and see if there's enough room yet. Looks like Kevin answered that ? for me!
i can answer the half inch stud question
at 12mm studs for our car STOCK. Our bolts/studs are already bigger than the MKIV (they use 10mm bolts).
going to 1/2" stud only increases the outside diameter by .03". Not that big a gain. Talking with ARP they actually recommend going bigger, two sizes bigger because of the required rethreading and retapping that needs to take place. Or in other words from 12mm to 14mm or 9/16 studs which is a significant upgrade in thickness
hope this helps
at 12mm studs for our car STOCK. Our bolts/studs are already bigger than the MKIV (they use 10mm bolts).
going to 1/2" stud only increases the outside diameter by .03". Not that big a gain. Talking with ARP they actually recommend going bigger, two sizes bigger because of the required rethreading and retapping that needs to take place. Or in other words from 12mm to 14mm or 9/16 studs which is a significant upgrade in thickness
hope this helps