im here to learn jetlock, so if you would please post the correct info that would be great. and all you had to do was correct me, you dont gotta call me out like that
idle issue. I'm clueless video attached
- Thread starter queenskid926
- Start date
guys cmon cant we all get along lol. idle issue help plz?
so the:
iscv
ecu
throttle body stop
all controlls the idle.
Its metered air and not a boost leak since its not running like crap.
did the video of me unplugging any of the sensors established anything?
IIRC if the afm is unplugged it should idle at 1000 and run rich and when gived gas stumble correct? Ill start her up today and do some more investigating.
keep the ideas coming
so the:
iscv
ecu
throttle body stop
all controlls the idle.
Its metered air and not a boost leak since its not running like crap.
did the video of me unplugging any of the sensors established anything?
IIRC if the afm is unplugged it should idle at 1000 and run rich and when gived gas stumble correct? Ill start her up today and do some more investigating.
keep the ideas coming
Pull off the 3000 pipe and confirm that the throttle plate is tightly closed. Check all your throttle linkages to make sure nothing hangs up and keeps the throttle partially open. You have an air leak somewhere, since the car should stall when you plug the ISCV air hose with your thumb.
The adjusting screw was deleted on 89+ TBs most likely to reduce manufacturing costs. It is not used on any year (closed shut), and people should stop screwing around with it when the problem lies elsewhere. The ECU handles idle for all years.
The adjusting screw was deleted on 89+ TBs most likely to reduce manufacturing costs. It is not used on any year (closed shut), and people should stop screwing around with it when the problem lies elsewhere. The ECU handles idle for all years.
just came back in from outside, still has the same problem. if you start the car with the afm plugged in and plug it it does nothing, but if u start it with the afm unplugged it will try to idle at 500 hiccuppin running rich and if u plug it back in after it will return to 2500 rpm idle.
i saw some wires that were exposed and brittle on my iscv so i completly rewired my iscv connector hoping that would do something and it did not. I pulled back the 3000 pipe just to triple check that the throttle body is fully closed and it is. When the car is started normally everything hooked up and its idling at 2000+ rpm when u give it gas it revs fine.
im about to swap in the old iscv that i changed originally to see if there is any in rpm between the two both iscv have the proper resistance as in the tsrm.
any more ideas guys?
i saw some wires that were exposed and brittle on my iscv so i completly rewired my iscv connector hoping that would do something and it did not. I pulled back the 3000 pipe just to triple check that the throttle body is fully closed and it is. When the car is started normally everything hooked up and its idling at 2000+ rpm when u give it gas it revs fine.
im about to swap in the old iscv that i changed originally to see if there is any in rpm between the two both iscv have the proper resistance as in the tsrm.
any more ideas guys?
3p141592654;1248976 said:
when i plug it fully with my thumb it will stall, when i partially plug it with my thumb just leaving a gap thats when it idles fine
Okay, so you are saying it stalls if you clamp the ISC air hose shut. That is important because it eliminates pirate air as an issue, and that is the most likely source of high idle problems.
Q2. Do you get a code 51 from the ECU when you crack the throttle open?
Q2. Do you get a code 51 from the ECU when you crack the throttle open?
3p141592654;1249010 said:
going to check rite now i have a buddy here brought over another iscv that were going to swap and see what happens, i will let u know what happens when i check the code too
3p141592654;1249010 said:
ok just did it, when iscv hose is covered shut the car dies.
Checking for codes with the throttle open i get get codes 32 and 51
Code 51 / Switch Signal
NOTE: Flowchart not available for Code 51.
Verify initial conditions were met during diagnosis check :
Battery voltage 11 volts or more
Throttle valve fully closed (throttle position sensor IDL points closed)
Transmission in park or neutral position
Air Conditioner Switch "OFF"
Accessories switched "OFF"
If above conditions were met during output of diagnostic codes, test the following circuits and components:
Air Conditioning Switch
Throttle Position Sensor Circuit
Throttle Position Sensor
Neutral Start Switch
ECU
thats all i could find for code 51
NOTE: Flowchart not available for Code 51.
Verify initial conditions were met during diagnosis check :
Battery voltage 11 volts or more
Throttle valve fully closed (throttle position sensor IDL points closed)
Transmission in park or neutral position
Air Conditioner Switch "OFF"
Accessories switched "OFF"
If above conditions were met during output of diagnostic codes, test the following circuits and components:
Air Conditioning Switch
Throttle Position Sensor Circuit
Throttle Position Sensor
Neutral Start Switch
ECU
thats all i could find for code 51
i think he was just asking to make sure that when the throttle is cracked that it would register a code showing that the tps is working and the hac is prolly off that signal. I'm almost finish installing another iscv so will see what this one will do, this will be the 3rd.
Yup, 51 needs to go away when the throttle is closed, and appear when its cracked open. That validates the idle switch is working properly.
51 is not stored, so it should go on and off in real time as the throttle is opened and closed.
So...
q3 Does 51 go away when the throttle is fully closed? If it doesn't make sure the A/C, defog, lights, etc. are off and if auto, in P or N.
51 is not stored, so it should go on and off in real time as the throttle is opened and closed.
So...
q3 Does 51 go away when the throttle is fully closed? If it doesn't make sure the A/C, defog, lights, etc. are off and if auto, in P or N.
3p141592654;1249058 said:
yes 51 comes on when its slightly cracked and goes away when its closed.
after doing some more work on the car i think its just that i have 3 faulty iscv
after i swapped in the 3rd iscv and it did the same thing. i decided to take one apart fully and inspect.
I took the first cover off then the black cover off inspected it and realize that it was stuck fully open. Spray some wd40 lube it up real good and then put it all back together hooked it all up without the iscv connector and it wouldnt idle. it would try and stay at 500 rpm sputtering and then die. Hooked up the connector, started it up again idle nice at 1350 then dropped to 1000. ran good for about 5 minutes then the idle started fluctuation again and felt like it wanted to cut off. I thought it was an afm issue with the filter off and the turbelance from the fan messing with the afm air so i unplugged the afm, idle perfect no dips at 1000rpm
put in a lexus afm that i kno is good and instantly rose back up to the 2500 issue. Pulled the iscv back out and just from looking at it the valve was all th way inside stuck back wide open again.
So i strongly believe that its the iscv and i just need to find a good new one.
The ECU opens the ISCV all the way up after you shutdown. You should hear it after you turn the ignition off. It would be unlikely that all three are bad, they are pretty simple stepper motors. Have you checked the wiring between ISC and ECU? There are no fault codes set if the stepper wiring is bad.
The AFM is sensitive to air flow, hence the honeycomb. Can you put the air filter on it to isolate it from the underhood fan turbulence?
The AFM is sensitive to air flow, hence the honeycomb. Can you put the air filter on it to isolate it from the underhood fan turbulence?
3p141592654;1249963 said:
ok yes i checked and rewired my iscv connector, on the original connector most of the wires were exposed rite at the base of the connector. so i got a decent one from a spare hacked harness i have lying around splice that connector onto the harness. This was one of my 1rst ways to fix the problem and it still happen after i used the other connector. All of the wires are matched to the same color so its wired up correctly is there a way that i can test resistance on the connector itself too make sure that its wired up correctly? The one way that i could think that i would messed up if if i mixed up the b1 and b2 wires, but i figured since there both the same color and both power it doesnt matter which way they go. Should i switch and see?
after i took apart and put back the last iscv. onn the 1rst startup it was good. well it idled at 1000. then turn the car off and started it up again and it instantly jumped rite back up.
im waiting on tubbie to test another iscv on her bothers car and make sure thats its working then send it 2 me and try it out on mines and if its does the same thing then i kno its something else.
I hate to mention another car in this supra forum but i had a dsm that had the same problem, a simple IAC was my fix.
ok tubbie just tested a iscv in her bro's car and it worked 100% perfectly so will see what happens when i get it installed, should be be4 this weekend.