Good to hear, looks like a great build....my 7m supposably had a cracked block and ended up going 1jz. Pearl white FTW too (mine is same colour)!!
I looked at 10 Supra's before I found THIS ONE ---> Build Up
- Thread starter 87witmoreboost
- Start date
I can't believe how neglected my forum updates have gone, but I will sum up where I stand in the supra world.
I am now running and tuned at 15psi on a HKS Sport Turbo. Walbro 255, 560cc injectors, Lex, and AFPR. It's a total blast!
I will get some pics and vids up in the near future.
I am now running and tuned at 15psi on a HKS Sport Turbo. Walbro 255, 560cc injectors, Lex, and AFPR. It's a total blast!
I will get some pics and vids up in the near future.
It's actually been a while since I've viewed this build. As usual, everything looks great! Post some recent pics of the car why don't ya..
That HKS turbo looks just like a CT, just more beefy haha. What's the maximum PSI you can run on it?
That HKS turbo looks just like a CT, just more beefy haha. What's the maximum PSI you can run on it?
Updates are SO overdue here. I'll make a post to kickstart a habit of getting updates/pics/vids.
My poor little monster has been off the road for 3mo now with the transmission removed. I was driving the car very carefully one Saturday when it decided to start popping out of first gear. Second ground. Third did nothing (acted like neutral) and 4th/5th were ok. I got a rebuild kit from Aaron and did all the Marlin upgrade parts. It turns out that the failure was a bad thrust washer...which lead to some damage on first gear and the reverse gear. Huge bummer that it happened, but i'm psyched to have a Marlin monster that I can forget about now.
I am planning to install it tomorrow. I read some tips (specifically, putting clutch on input shaft first, mating engine/bell housing, then reaching through access windows in bell housing to tighten clutch to motor.) I'm dreading the install but hopefully it isn't horrible. I'm slightly scarred after dealing with a stripped starter bolt during removal.
As the car stands, I am rebuilt w/about 2500mi. HKS sport turbo, HKS sport 3" exhaust, Lex/550's/SAFCII/AFPR/wideband w/street tune, HKS EVC I @ 18psi...etc
The car is SO much fun. I suspect 350 at the wheels. The tune could be better and will be soon.
The sad part: I am still fighting an oil burning problem. Two summers ago I rebuilt the motor and rebuilt the HKS sport turbo. I noticed the car was burning oil at first and I accepted it...but it wasn't anything break-in related because it still persists. I really only rebuilt (pistons, rings, all bearings and seals) because I had to take the block out to plane it for the MHG and figured while in there I may as well. At 95k miles, the cylinders still had a crosshatch and looked great. So, I just did a stock piston replacement with a 400 grit drill hone before install. I couldn't understand why it was burning oil and first believed it to be a bad turbo drain (had a loop). I fixed this and still had the problem. I sent the turbo back for a second rebuild with <1000mi (reliable builder) and was told there was a bad thrust bearing...sweet. So, I re-installed and still burning oil. The motor runs great/smooth/quiet and compression is 146psi/cyl. It doesn't smoke on start-up (valve stem seals are brand new). I cannot figure it out! Very frustrating...
And since you're curious, it's about 3/4 qt per tank of gas. So we're talking about a LOT of oil.
My two suspicions:
-The turbo has an issue and being uncommon the builder is missing something (bad piston ring seal? worn groove?).
-Unhappy oil scraping rings. Maybe one isn't sitting right? I hear tapered cylinders can cause this but I can't imagine a taper so strong that it would still have good compression.
Suggestions are appreciated. The car is an oil-burning-problem away from being near flawless in every way.
My poor little monster has been off the road for 3mo now with the transmission removed. I was driving the car very carefully one Saturday when it decided to start popping out of first gear. Second ground. Third did nothing (acted like neutral) and 4th/5th were ok. I got a rebuild kit from Aaron and did all the Marlin upgrade parts. It turns out that the failure was a bad thrust washer...which lead to some damage on first gear and the reverse gear. Huge bummer that it happened, but i'm psyched to have a Marlin monster that I can forget about now.
I am planning to install it tomorrow. I read some tips (specifically, putting clutch on input shaft first, mating engine/bell housing, then reaching through access windows in bell housing to tighten clutch to motor.) I'm dreading the install but hopefully it isn't horrible. I'm slightly scarred after dealing with a stripped starter bolt during removal.
As the car stands, I am rebuilt w/about 2500mi. HKS sport turbo, HKS sport 3" exhaust, Lex/550's/SAFCII/AFPR/wideband w/street tune, HKS EVC I @ 18psi...etc
The car is SO much fun. I suspect 350 at the wheels. The tune could be better and will be soon.
The sad part: I am still fighting an oil burning problem. Two summers ago I rebuilt the motor and rebuilt the HKS sport turbo. I noticed the car was burning oil at first and I accepted it...but it wasn't anything break-in related because it still persists. I really only rebuilt (pistons, rings, all bearings and seals) because I had to take the block out to plane it for the MHG and figured while in there I may as well. At 95k miles, the cylinders still had a crosshatch and looked great. So, I just did a stock piston replacement with a 400 grit drill hone before install. I couldn't understand why it was burning oil and first believed it to be a bad turbo drain (had a loop). I fixed this and still had the problem. I sent the turbo back for a second rebuild with <1000mi (reliable builder) and was told there was a bad thrust bearing...sweet. So, I re-installed and still burning oil. The motor runs great/smooth/quiet and compression is 146psi/cyl. It doesn't smoke on start-up (valve stem seals are brand new). I cannot figure it out! Very frustrating...
And since you're curious, it's about 3/4 qt per tank of gas. So we're talking about a LOT of oil.
My two suspicions:
-The turbo has an issue and being uncommon the builder is missing something (bad piston ring seal? worn groove?).
-Unhappy oil scraping rings. Maybe one isn't sitting right? I hear tapered cylinders can cause this but I can't imagine a taper so strong that it would still have good compression.
Suggestions are appreciated. The car is an oil-burning-problem away from being near flawless in every way.
You could switch your hks with a known good ct26 just to rule your turbo out. If it were your rings your PCV system would probably be flooded with oil.
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While it was apart, I would have, in your position, done a slight overbore to bring the cylinders back to 100% straight and used new forged pistons. 146psi sounds a bit low, my 120k mile 7m-gte with clean piston domes and head cc (had engine apart and cleaned it) runs between 157-162 across the board. Sounds like your rings are leaking and sucking in oil.
either that, or you have a huge external leak somewhere
Off of that topic though, how did you wire in your Prosport gauge a few years ago, meaning what wires behind the dash did you use for power, switched power (illuminations)?
either that, or you have a huge external leak somewhere
Off of that topic though, how did you wire in your Prosport gauge a few years ago, meaning what wires behind the dash did you use for power, switched power (illuminations)?
Block did go to machine shop. I just had them deck it. Took the clean bore as a sign the were straight. Leading to the response of the next question...I didn't overbore and really regret it.
That compression really sounds low? I thought it was right in spec but don't recall acceptable range. It's been a while. No external leaking. I see it puff after decel (and was told during hard accel). I can't just swap turbo because fittings are different...wish I could. I will need a set of OEM lines.
For the prosport I ran a wire to the kick panel next to your left leg. Turned lights on and off til I found a switched 12v.
That compression really sounds low? I thought it was right in spec but don't recall acceptable range. It's been a while. No external leaking. I see it puff after decel (and was told during hard accel). I can't just swap turbo because fittings are different...wish I could. I will need a set of OEM lines.
For the prosport I ran a wire to the kick panel next to your left leg. Turned lights on and off til I found a switched 12v.
