I looked at 10 Supra's before I found THIS ONE ---> Build Up
- Thread starter 87witmoreboost
- Start date
UPDATE: 7/7/08
Well, i've slacked a bit on updates.
I had a christmas-morning-like weekend two weeks ago and got my new wheels and suspension on.
Got a set of Sumitomo HRT Z II's for my mustang wheels. 245/40-17 Front, 255/40-17 rear.
This same week, I ordered a set of Illumina's with RS*R race springs from ms07s (props on the good price). I spent a good 8 hours on Saturday the 21st getting the shocks and springs in.
Taking the back apart was too time consuming. Toyota should have made easier-access caps.
The whole job went very well - no frozen nuts, broken bolts, etc. The only trouble was getting the sway bar end-link off (drivers side had play). Took a cut-off wheel because the socket center of the link bolt stripped. Again, you could have done better, Toyota.
See something on top of the ball joint? I thought so. It's a grease fitting. That ball joint had some play. I wasn't ready to buy a new A-arm so I lifted the trick from a family member. Give the top of the BJ a wack with a hammer (in a vice), and then drill a small hole (size not on the top of my head) to the side of the ball. Tap the hole and thread in a grease fitting. Stick the grease gun on and give it hell. It made it nice and solid - all for under $1.00.
When I lowered the lift to the ground, the car was getting lower, and lower, and lower, and fender gap got smaller and smaller. By the time the lift arm hit the ground, the car was too low to get the lift arm out without hitting the rocker.
Awesome.
Naturally, I took it around the block, PETRIFIED of wheel rub or worse. First corner I took showed a day and night difference - the car was dead flat. I put it away for the night and got the tires mounted.
I ordered my hubcentric rings and TRD badges for the wheels - yes, TRD gets the credit for these.
Well, here is the before and after.
I love it.
The alignment shop got it within spec on all stock adjusters.
The wheels sit damn close to frush - not exactly 'herra' tho. I was really worried about wheel rub with the +25mm offset and lower height as another member was rubbing on stock wheels and tires with the RS*R race springs. I gave the inner-fender screw tab a wack up with a rubber mallet as it was the closest body part to the tire, and greased up the inner fender to see if it would appear on the tires.
Well, I've pushed the car very hard on some ramps and backroads and I get ZERO rub. The car is very sure-footed and my original idea of ST Sway's is getting back-shelved because the body roll isn't as bad as I expected - i'll save it for the future and make it a fun surprise to feel the difference.
Boost on the highway uses gas, ya know?
I had one more body issue to tackle. If you want your 89+ tails to use your 89- molding, look at this, and listen good.
I bugged Johnathan1 with a ton of PM's and could not get it to work as easy as I was told. There is no easy way to do this. Period. The next picture is the sad truth of how to make the molding fit - take your time and it will come out excellent.
Yes. Be very careful. It will take over and hour and come at the cost of 4 blisters, a dirty garage floor, and a bad mood. I cut it, then use my grinding wheel to get it more plane, then sanded with 120 grit. 3M double-sided FTW.
I also installed my HKS TT in the blank under my soon-to-be-replaced-because-my-cda9884-is-in-the-mail alpine cd player. That shift knob is the nude version of the leather-wrapped. I took the leather off because it was faded and missing a chunk. I will pay $100 to anyone that can get me a MINT burgundy leather wrapped original knob. You have my word.
Power mods are coming in a couple weeks - stay posted.
Well, i've slacked a bit on updates.
I had a christmas-morning-like weekend two weeks ago and got my new wheels and suspension on.
Got a set of Sumitomo HRT Z II's for my mustang wheels. 245/40-17 Front, 255/40-17 rear.
This same week, I ordered a set of Illumina's with RS*R race springs from ms07s (props on the good price). I spent a good 8 hours on Saturday the 21st getting the shocks and springs in.
Taking the back apart was too time consuming. Toyota should have made easier-access caps.
The whole job went very well - no frozen nuts, broken bolts, etc. The only trouble was getting the sway bar end-link off (drivers side had play). Took a cut-off wheel because the socket center of the link bolt stripped. Again, you could have done better, Toyota.
See something on top of the ball joint? I thought so. It's a grease fitting. That ball joint had some play. I wasn't ready to buy a new A-arm so I lifted the trick from a family member. Give the top of the BJ a wack with a hammer (in a vice), and then drill a small hole (size not on the top of my head) to the side of the ball. Tap the hole and thread in a grease fitting. Stick the grease gun on and give it hell. It made it nice and solid - all for under $1.00.
When I lowered the lift to the ground, the car was getting lower, and lower, and lower, and fender gap got smaller and smaller. By the time the lift arm hit the ground, the car was too low to get the lift arm out without hitting the rocker.
Awesome.
Naturally, I took it around the block, PETRIFIED of wheel rub or worse. First corner I took showed a day and night difference - the car was dead flat. I put it away for the night and got the tires mounted.
I ordered my hubcentric rings and TRD badges for the wheels - yes, TRD gets the credit for these.
Well, here is the before and after.
I love it.
The alignment shop got it within spec on all stock adjusters.
The wheels sit damn close to frush - not exactly 'herra' tho. I was really worried about wheel rub with the +25mm offset and lower height as another member was rubbing on stock wheels and tires with the RS*R race springs. I gave the inner-fender screw tab a wack up with a rubber mallet as it was the closest body part to the tire, and greased up the inner fender to see if it would appear on the tires.
Well, I've pushed the car very hard on some ramps and backroads and I get ZERO rub. The car is very sure-footed and my original idea of ST Sway's is getting back-shelved because the body roll isn't as bad as I expected - i'll save it for the future and make it a fun surprise to feel the difference.
Boost on the highway uses gas, ya know?
I had one more body issue to tackle. If you want your 89+ tails to use your 89- molding, look at this, and listen good.
I bugged Johnathan1 with a ton of PM's and could not get it to work as easy as I was told. There is no easy way to do this. Period. The next picture is the sad truth of how to make the molding fit - take your time and it will come out excellent.
Yes. Be very careful. It will take over and hour and come at the cost of 4 blisters, a dirty garage floor, and a bad mood. I cut it, then use my grinding wheel to get it more plane, then sanded with 120 grit. 3M double-sided FTW.
I also installed my HKS TT in the blank under my soon-to-be-replaced-because-my-cda9884-is-in-the-mail alpine cd player. That shift knob is the nude version of the leather-wrapped. I took the leather off because it was faded and missing a chunk. I will pay $100 to anyone that can get me a MINT burgundy leather wrapped original knob. You have my word.
Power mods are coming in a couple weeks - stay posted.
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Looks great. I really like the wheels on there, I was probably going to do something similar just because it's a cheap fix over the sawblades. I have some wheels off my 98 Mustang GT that I was going to throw on the Supra instead of going out and buying some...unless I can find a cheaper set of some sick wheels.
Nice work though!
Nice work though!
News to me that they are different.
I did a google search on it and agree.
I did a google search on it and agree.
JDMMA70;1072042 said:
Damn, I like the ride height. Would of been sweet if it dropped lower, it's sick nonetheless. :icon_bigg
Found a craigslist item I couldn't pass up and bought it today.
Apexi AFC Neo brand new in the box, never taken out of the plastic - $150
Craigslist FTW.
Apexi AFC Neo brand new in the box, never taken out of the plastic - $150
Craigslist FTW.
wow..nice work on the car and good choice of items for the build. Attention to detail is beginning to show on your car. Very nice build up./
suprastanger507mgte;1073275 said:
Just checked your pics - I want your hardpipes. Where and how much?
87witmoreboost;1073373 said:
On the black 7m? Those were offered by spoolingt78 for $350 a few years back. excellent quality .
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ILikeCarsYesIDo;1073425 said:
I use picasa which has given me trouble so I wasn't going to be surprised if they weren't working, but I can see them fine.
Anyone else?
Bosch 110
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...RK%3AMEWNX:IT&viewitem=&item=380045018070
$35 shipped.
FTW!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...RK%3AMEWNX:IT&viewitem=&item=380045018070
$35 shipped.
FTW!
