Finished my battery relocation with cutoff switch and fuel pump rewire (PICS)
- Thread starter ForcedInduction
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yea ok, its not perfect. wrong cut-off switch, no battery box and exposed terminals on the cut-off. is that what you saw?
oh yae the best way to kill the alt is with sinlode 100 amp should do in less you have upgraded alt
i ran the trigger wire from my switch to the noid
all you doing is truning off the power but alt will still make and power and run
you can run 4 guage but the the limt on about 16 feet
i ran the trigger wire from my switch to the noid
all you doing is truning off the power but alt will still make and power and run
you can run 4 guage but the the limt on about 16 feet
NashMan said:
yups. not to mention disconnecting the load from the alternator....what we in the auto industry call the "load dump test"...i.e. one of the most severe electrical tests performed on a vehicle. when the car is running and the battery is disconnected, there is a good sized pulse up to 60+V that the entire electrical system sees....sure the OEM stuff is tested for it, but your sweet aftermarket receiver sure isn't.
I did like you said it in #1.
You guys are really making a big deal out of nothing. All I need to do is get another circuit breaker and put it closer to the battery as well as slip some grommets into the firewall holes.
The only thing I can agree to being wrong is the location of the circuit breaker. Everything else I think has to do with preference. I didn't want to route the cables under the car, I preffered to run them through the car. If you read my 1st post you will see why I used that disconnect switch, because it will have a "push off" rod going through my spare taillight and I don't even see anything wrong with the size of the wires.
by looking at what you posted the alt will still run and make power
but the way ti look is you killing the efi system withc some will kill the car or some time sit will still run
eahter way you will not pass a proper tec tell there is clean switch or noide in the main power for your alt
but the way ti look is you killing the efi system withc some will kill the car or some time sit will still run
eahter way you will not pass a proper tec tell there is clean switch or noide in the main power for your alt
well, the NHRA approved kill switch is the push-pull style which is rated pretty high. plus, its easy access. if you have an electrical fire inside your trunk, there is no way you can reach your kill switch safely. looking at youre setup, with the wrong size cable, routed thru the interior, id say your a good candidate for that.
6awg is good for a short run of like 2-3 feet. not 13 feet. you need to have a cable with more conductor for a longer run to keep the resistance down. stock is 6awg, i went to 2awg. i crimped and soldered ALL the connections just cuz i didnt want anything to pull out.
oh, and you can have a dedicated run from the alternator to the BATTERY and not need a solenoid, just the circuit breaker incase of any shorts. this way, the kill switch will kill power from the battery to the main fuse box while the alterantor would have to feed thru the battery and thru the kill switch in order to 'back feed'.
6awg is good for a short run of like 2-3 feet. not 13 feet. you need to have a cable with more conductor for a longer run to keep the resistance down. stock is 6awg, i went to 2awg. i crimped and soldered ALL the connections just cuz i didnt want anything to pull out.
oh, and you can have a dedicated run from the alternator to the BATTERY and not need a solenoid, just the circuit breaker incase of any shorts. this way, the kill switch will kill power from the battery to the main fuse box while the alterantor would have to feed thru the battery and thru the kill switch in order to 'back feed'.
dude copper ant cheep any more :aigo:
plus if you have sound systme the alt wire gives off alot of noise more then just the main power wire
plus if you have sound systme the alt wire gives off alot of noise more then just the main power wire
flubyux2 said:
idk, i got 40 feet of 2awg cable for $52 shipped. i win!
and yes, high current will give up large RFI feilds. thats why i ran mine under the car. plus, running large cable UNDER the carpet is difficulte and dangerous.
and yes, high current will give up large RFI feilds. thats why i ran mine under the car. plus, running large cable UNDER the carpet is difficulte and dangerous.
hate to say this but ebay power wire is shit resone being it not pure copper it's tined or alaumin so in oder for ti to be good it will be a great deal thinker to have the same rate as if it was nice power lead and int eh end it is still crap
stinger is good compnay that use a mix but see what they do is over size there wire so ti will have the same restance as it pure conter part
there is such a thing you pay for what you get copper is very exp right now
i have to buy some 0 guage wire coming soon 99 percent copper for 17 feet ti will cost me 270 cnd
just so you know
cheers
stinger is good compnay that use a mix but see what they do is over size there wire so ti will have the same restance as it pure conter part
there is such a thing you pay for what you get copper is very exp right now
i have to buy some 0 guage wire coming soon 99 percent copper for 17 feet ti will cost me 270 cnd
just so you know
cheers
flubyux2 said:
You guys certainly are critics, especially when you see some of the crap that gets posted on this forum. There is nothing wrong with what he did aside from the breaker location should of been closer to the battery, something we didn't discuss. The main hot on the alternator and Bat are on one side of the switch, the rest of the car is on the other. There is no more direct way to kill power to the entire car. Lets be honest, how really concerned is the safety safari with the voltage spike on your electronics when you are burning alive. I have shut both my cars numerous times with the switch and nothing ever gets damaged. I would of chose a more grommetted route, but I dont think what he did is a great danger being in the cabin of the car.
He used 2awg for everything except for the connection from the starter to the power distribution block where he used what used to be the starter wire, which is more than what he needs(assuming the wire had no corrosion) as it used to be the starter wire. He also could of run a new wire if the existing wire was corroded, but his was fine. He used an NHRA legal box, NHRA legal switch, the proper breakers, the good moroso terminal ends and the proper crimp connectors which needs a dye to be crimped, these aren't the 10 cent crimp connectors you buy by the hundred. The car can be shut off from inside the trunk, as well as outside using the push style knob. The bulkhead style switches mounted through the body will only be able to be switched from outside the car. The whole point of having a switch is not so YOU can shut the car, but the safety safari can shut your car from outside. This car will pass NHRA tech once the rest of his switch is installed just like both my cars passed by real NHRA techs, not the hay seed inspector at your local 1/4 mile. If you brought your car to SP, they would wire your car the same way sans the breaker location and wire route.
He used 2awg for everything except for the connection from the starter to the power distribution block where he used what used to be the starter wire, which is more than what he needs(assuming the wire had no corrosion) as it used to be the starter wire. He also could of run a new wire if the existing wire was corroded, but his was fine. He used an NHRA legal box, NHRA legal switch, the proper breakers, the good moroso terminal ends and the proper crimp connectors which needs a dye to be crimped, these aren't the 10 cent crimp connectors you buy by the hundred. The car can be shut off from inside the trunk, as well as outside using the push style knob. The bulkhead style switches mounted through the body will only be able to be switched from outside the car. The whole point of having a switch is not so YOU can shut the car, but the safety safari can shut your car from outside. This car will pass NHRA tech once the rest of his switch is installed just like both my cars passed by real NHRA techs, not the hay seed inspector at your local 1/4 mile. If you brought your car to SP, they would wire your car the same way sans the breaker location and wire route.
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NashMan said:
Do you not understand? My switch works everytime I hit it. Meaning the whole car gets shut off instantly without damaging anything as I've flipped the switch at least 10 times already. And I can't even read the rest of what you wrote, your spelling skills are lacking.
flubyux2 said:
Did you even bother to read my 1st post? 1st of all I am using a 300AMP kill switch that is NHRA legal. And why in the world would I need access to it? Reason why you need a kill switch is in case I crash at the track or my car catches on fire etc. and so the track crew can run up and shut my car off. And why do I have the wrong size cable?
Once again, go back and read my 1st post. I said I was using two 2AWG cables for the relocation, where did you get 6AWG? And I properly crimped everything like it should be.
yes if you read my post you kill the efi systme in less you are runing a cable from alt to the back whitch i don't really see cetp that really small wire
this is the same thign i wrote in the other replay and that is not leag the power wire has to have a break in it and then another fuses form the alt back to thee battrie
ps i see lots of cars at my work brunt to crisp form back wireing and power fuel systems liek braided fule lines over alts ect
this is the same thign i wrote in the other replay and that is not leag the power wire has to have a break in it and then another fuses form the alt back to thee battrie
ps i see lots of cars at my work brunt to crisp form back wireing and power fuel systems liek braided fule lines over alts ect
ForcedInduction said:
Again. HE HAS A 2AWG RUNNING FROM THE ALT TO THE BAT POSITIVE. When the switch is flipped, the alt and the bat are disconnected from the rest of the car. With the car running, when the switch is flipped, the car immediatley stops running and power to everything is lost. Everything then is fine when the car restarts with the switch back in the on position. It is amazing how many people were quick to tell him what he did wrong before they even had an understanding of what he did. Its unreal, only on an internet forum.
joliroger4 said:
I don't understand what he did? Lol. This from a guy who gave him guidance but didn't mention anything about where to put the CB. A minor oversight that eh?
What's amazing is you apparently can't read a simple schematic. I see an unswitched feed from the battery to engine compartment so how is power to everything lost upon disconnect? When a crash induced short occurs behind the CB that conductor (run through the car's interior no less) will burn (or the battery will explode) until current flow ceases and no amount of pounding on his disconnect switch will stop it. That feed alone negates the entire point of having a disconnect. Not to mention all the other stuff wrong ie; neither feed has overcurrent protection at the source and the circuit is ass backwards from the way this and just about every other car I've seen is designed.
Have you been dealing with electricity for over 40 years? Are you a formerly licensed electrician turned BSEE with 28 years experience designing electrical systems for machinery far more complex than cars? How about 20 years of working on aircraft electrical systems? That abortion may "work" but don't tell me it's safe or right because a first year trade school student can see it's not. He/you did it wrong. Period. That is all.
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