jetjock said:
You don't need to tell me how the EFI system or anything else electrical in the car works. I don't recall mentioning the term +B (or B+) at any time. Can you show me where I did?.
But you did say, "that's a start" after whoever mentioned B+ > Switch > PDB and from there, your unclear vague posts lead me to believe that was what you were talking about this entire time. I'm not a mind reader, and I even politely asked you to correct me if I was misunderstand what you were trying to get at, because I had an honest interest in clearing this up. I mentioned B+ a bunch of times and never once did you attempt to clear that up, apparantly you either like to start a shit fest or you too did not realize we were talking about two different wires. I was giving you the benefit of the doubt that there was no way in hell you were talking about interrupting the battery positive only, again trying to work with you.
jetjock said:
Why would EFI power be involved when the discussion concerned relocating the battery? If you were referring to +B in that sense what does it have to do with the headlights not working or starter wire becoming hot?
My point exactly, I thought you were nuts! Do you read my posts? I was under the impression you were interrupting +B that only kills the EFI system. I was simply pointing out the rest of the cars electrical functions would still be hot.
jetjock said:
And if you were referring to it as the battery positive the same question applies. Your theories get weirder by the post. In other words wtf are *you* talking about??
I wasn't referring to the bat postive, we finally just cleared that up in my last post.
jetjock said:
Of course I know disconnecting only the battery positive won't work. I thought I made that clear earlier when I mentioned the load dump and engine kill problems.
No shit, thats why I said, "I am sure you know the obvious problem with interrupting the battery positive only..."
jetjock said:
What Enrage posted is one way to do it but it still uses the solenoid/relay mentioned earlier in place of the double pole switch. By making a minor change in the car's stock wiring neither of those switching elements would be required and the one wire method could still be used. That's what I meant about being creative. That said I'm done with this little dance of ours. Hopefully you've learned from it but something tells me otherwise.
Where it says "back to car" I am assuming it goes somewhere on the bat side of the switch. Thats a nice way to do it because you have nothing hot between the alternator and battery when the switch is off. Thanks for providing some help, NASH
Jet, I dont know what your problem is with me. There's no reason for smart remarks, attacks and that kind of attitude, especially when a lot of it was caused by a misunderstanding about which wires we were talking about. I tried to post in this thread with respect to everyone the best I could(even you) once it got heated but I didn't get any of that in return from you. This whole thing could of been avoided and this could of been a good thread if certain things were handled differently.
jetjock said:
but something tells me otherwise.
Maybe one day you can actually give the forum a little help on the minor wiring mod you talked about. I wont be waiting for it because I think you are a jerk.
