Finished my battery relocation with cutoff switch and fuel pump rewire (PICS)

[figgie]

Ummm...That is a typical GM wiring diagram and charging system.

Pontiac actually.

but the only diff is the pin labeling.

Both have voltage sensing inputs (Pin S in ours).
Both have the regulator turn on (F on GM IG in ours)
Both have the out put (the post for ours)

all that changes is labeling.

 

[screaminglemon]

good to know. guess i dont need that 200amp relay i bought. lol.

 

[ForcedInduction]

yes if you read my post you kill the efi systme in less you are runing a cable from alt to the back whitch i don't really see cetp that really small wire

this is the same thign i wrote in the other replay and that is not leag the power wire has to have a break in it and then another fuses form the alt back to thee battrie

ps i see lots of cars at my work brunt to crisp form back wireing and power fuel systems liek braided fule lines over alts ect

No offense, but I can't put together a good sentence out of this mess of words and letters.

try it with the car running.

Why are you being an a-hole to me? What did I ever do to you?

Lets all think beyond NHRA for a moment. We are all focusing too hard on this rule and missing the real point of the matter. When relocating a battery to the rea of the car, the first issue to deal with is venting of the gas. Even using a gel battery, you still have a smaller amount of gas to vent. If using a lead/acid battery you need to deal with leakage as well. A marine battery box that is properly installed will fit both requirements.
The next point of concern is the actual power wiring. First point of concern is you will be running a high amount of current through this wire. Figure a constant 80A with spikes upwards of 150A. With this much amperage and the length of wire I would suggest 2ga wire. 1ga would be even better, 1/0 ga is my personal preference. Then think about the routing of this wire. Personally I wouldnt want to share the driving compartment with this wire. As long as the wire is protected from chaffing any metal with rubber grommets and wire loom it can be routed wherever you desire. You will also want to anchor this wire to the body of the car so it isnt moving around unnessarily. The rule for this is the more secure the better.
Once the wire is routed you want to think about safety. If anything should go wrong with this wire there needs to be a way to kill power going through it fast. A circuit breaker or fuse with proper amp rating within 12 inches of the battery needs to be installed.
Once these concerns are taken care of you can then work on the safety rules of NHRA.

All of the points were met in your statement or will be fixed, why are you still arguing? I don't understand.

 

[ValgeKotkas]

^Because you are still arguing maybe? (or were arguing?)

 

[ForcedInduction]

I'm not arguing and was never arguing. I appreciate that they pointed out some of the problems and I will fix them, but I'm not going to change the wiring setup as it works good and it makes no sence to me switching to something else especially after all that time working on it. All i will do is get some wiring loom and wrap it around where it is possible for the cables to chase and cause a short and I will also install 3 circuit breakers. 2 off the battery+ and 1 coming off the alternator.

 

[IJ.]

X posted from the same thread over on SF (yes I'm lazy)

The frame makes a shitty ground path but I'm sure many will argue that they've done it that way and it's fine....

With a low comp 3.0L motor it'll work but many years ago I found out the hard way trying to start my 7.0L 12.5:1 BBC and have since always ran 2 x .5" multistrand copper cables all the way to the front of the car.

 

[jetjock]

Besides, assuming you put your battery in the trunk, you would still need at least two wires running from the hatch, one for the battery hot and at least one to run up to B+

Say what? That's simply not true. I'll say it again: If one chooses to use the chassis as a return (workable but not wise, as IJ pointed out) the mod can be done using a single wire and still comply with the rule. Nor is a double pole switch or relay required. Assuming you really understand this stuff as well as you claim try being a little more creative next time.

 

[joliroger4]

Say what? That's simply not true. I'll say it again: If one chooses to use the chassis as a return (workable but not wise, as IJ pointed out) the mod can be done using a single wire and still comply with the rule. Nor is a double pole switch required. Assuming you really understand this stuff as well as you claim try being a little more creative next time.

Maybe we misunderstood each other. Lets put aside that this method doesn't remove all electrical functions for a minute, which right off the bat doesn't comply and is more dangerous. How do you get switched power to B+ from a switch mounted in the back of the vehicle AND a main hot off the battery positive terminal to the starter/power distribution block using only 1 wire. I never mentioned anything about a ground.

Assuming you really understand this stuff as well as you claim try being a little more creative next time.

I haven't claimed anything or brought up any qualifications. I am defending my cars that someone referred to as an abortion, which many people who have actually seen them might disagree. I also haven't thrown any smart remarks at you and I am probably 20 years younger.

 

[screaminglemon]

Say what? That's simply not true. I'll say it again: If one chooses to use the chassis as a return (workable but not wise, as IJ pointed out) the mod can be done using a single wire and still comply with the rule. Nor is a double pole switch or relay required. Assuming you really understand this stuff as well as you claim try being a little more creative next time.

im usually pretty good with puzzles like this but for the life of me, i just cant figure this one out. my creative side must be lacking.

so can someone who has been dealing with electricity for over 40 years, a formerly licensed electrician turned BSEE with 28 years experience designing electrical systems for machinery far more complex than cars, and about 20 years of working on aircraft electrical systems, please enlighten us mere mortals? pretty please.

i mean no disrespect here. its just that you are obviously the expert here and there is plenty of light being shed on whats wrong but little if any advice on how to actually do this job right.

 

[Kckazdude]

This is the simple way to think of it. One wire from the battery to switch to front of car.

Now compare my , dare I say it, drawing to this schematic. See the point where it states FL 2.0L? That would be where you substitute the switch for NHRA compliance. See how there is only one wire from the battery? How did this get so complicated?

 

[screaminglemon]

This is the simple way to think of it. One wire from the battery to switch to front of car.

Now compare my , dare I say it, drawing to this schematic. See the point where it states FL 2.0L? That would be where you substitute the switch for NHRA compliance. See how there is only one wire from the battery? How did this get so complicated?

so how would that shut off the alternator output? wouldnt that cause a "load dump"?

 

[Kckazdude]

Bah ...details....give me a minute to revise that drawing. Knew there was something in this.

 

[jetjock]

Maybe we misunderstood each other. Lets put aside that this method doesn't remove all electrical functions for a minute, which right off the bat doesn't comply and is more dangerous.

Wtf? No, you misunderstood me so I'll try one more time. This is the last time I'm going to say it: What I described *will* remove all power from the car and kill the engine if done right. That you're unable to add enough to the basic principle I and others have provided to get there is your fault, not mine. Considering the method you used *does not* remove all power from the car adds to the insult. As for smart remarks you try arguing with someone who refuses to accept they don't know what they don't know. It gets old quick.

Kck: Since the rule (how did we get from safe design to some rule?) seems to imply the requirement of not only removing power but also to killing the engine you can't do that. Not only will it not kill the engine but it'll cause a load dump. As I said before though its a good start.

 

[Mo87NA]

Easy Jet. Dont get yourself all worked up. Dont bother with those who do not want to listen....

Mo

 

[suprabad]

Forcedinduction:

I know it's hard to not take criticism personal, since you obviously worked hard on this project, but this is how you learn (by making mistakes).

So just try and not get bruised, and be gratefull that experienced, seasoned guys like jetjock etc. are taking the time to advise you.


The road to wisdom and knowledge is full of bumps.:icon_bigg

 

[Kckazdude]

The road to wisdom and knowledge is full of bumps.:icon_bigg

Some of these bumps should have caution signs posted around them.

 

[joliroger4]

Wtf? No, you misunderstood me so I'll try one more time. This is the last time I'm going to say it: What I described *will* remove all power from the car and kill the engine if done right. That you're unable to add enough to the basic principle I and others have provided to get there is your fault, not mine. Considering the method you used *does not* remove all power from the car adds to the insult. As for smart remarks you try arguing with someone who refuses to accept they don't know what they don't know. It gets old quick.

Kck: Since the rule (how did we get from safe design to some rule?) seems to imply the requirement of not only removing power but also to killing the engine you can't do that. Not only will it not kill the engine but it'll cause a load dump. As I said before though its a good start.

Oh really. How about you actually try and add something to this thread rather than insulting. Numerous people have asked you for guidance. So when you interrupt the B+ signal your headlights wont work? The large starter wire wont be hot? Again, if I am misunderstanding what you are getting at please correct me, but from what you tried to communicate above, interrupting B+ wont accomplish any of that. That doesn't comply and is UNSAFE. It doesn't seem like I am alone being that nobody else here knows WHAT THE FUCK you are trying to say. Get real buddy, you haven't described anything. Stop trying to save face and add something to this thread or stop posting.

 

[suprabad]

Some of these bumps should have caution signs posted around them.

I agree. Wouldn't it be nice if that's how it worked?

I've had my ego stepped on a time or two, so I know how it feels.

Maybe a pissing contest isn't the answer.

We could probably be nicer (kinder) to each other.

 

[jetjock]

So when you interrupt the B+ signal your headlights wont work? The large starter wire wont be hot?

Lol. The prosecution rests.

 

[Enraged]

ha.... well nashman sent me this. makes sense to me. the solenoid is spliced into the stock wiring, so you only need a single wire going from the back of the car to the front.

for the solenoid, i think he means something like this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRF-50105&N=700+115&autoview=sku