Driveshafts

[IJ.]

^ Doesn't take much.

Think of the dotted lines in toilet paper or a glass cutter, the cable wears a fail point you apply power and it snaps at that point.

This is another reason I'm NOT keen on Aluminium DS's as they're very easily marked giving them a stress riser.

 

[suprakid24]

Hmm.
I seem to be the only one on here that's bought from the Driveshaft Shop.
I got a 1 piece aluminum unit. Looks great, but I'm in the middle of my engine swap, and so it's about to go in. Hopefully, I can give a review of it within the week.

We called them and they were surprised, so they made another one with a thicker diameter for a cheaper price. So I have two now, a custom steel one, and a thick aluminum one.

 

[Zumtizzle]

If it's "orbital" you have much bigger issues
(think you mean rotational)

Too Much Physics this month.

 

[shaftmasters]

We have not been on the forum for a while for several reasons. There seems to be several concerns members have about single piece aluminum driveshafts. These concerns seem to be leading members to "shy" away from aluminum driveshafts. We would however like to inform members of the following facts.

• All of our aluminum shafts are made with .125 wall thickness 6061-T6 DOM driveshaft tubing
• All of our aluminum shafts are made with solid, high performance universal joints
• To date we have sold 175 single piece aluminum shafts for both Toyota Supra MKIII and Nissan 240SX
• We have never had a single failure of any of our single piece aluminum shafts

 

[figgie]

We called them and they were surprised, so they made another one with a thicker diameter for a cheaper price. So I have two now, a custom steel one, and a thick aluminum one.

Suprised with what?

Aluminum is great for DD.

Put it in a drag racing situation CONSTANTLY and it will fail. To much stress during the launch especially if running drag radials or slicks.

Steel DS for drag racing purposes or CF. But the CF has to be THICK. So thick that there is no weight savings infact. But what you do get is, if there is a failure, you will have one mighty squeeky clean track behind you as the cf turns into a giant sweeper/broom.

Ask Duane about that!

 

[joliroger4]

I have one of the old Jim Jobe 1 piece aluminum 3" driveshafts. Had it for 6 or 7 years now and it's been great, you don't even know it's there and it's been through quite a bit of abuse at the drag strip.

I have a driveshaftshop aluminum 3.5" in my truck with a spicer 1350 joint on the trans side and a spicer 1310 on the rear and that's been great as well. Maybe I just have really good luck. The key to a strong driveshaft is large diameter. Pinion angle too, but we have no control over that in an IRS MKIII where everything is already preset.

 

[shaftmasters]

Suprised with what?

Aluminum is great for DD.

Put it in a drag racing situation CONSTANTLY and it will fail. To much stress during the launch especially if running drag radials or slicks.

Steel DS for drag racing purposes or CF. But the CF has to be THICK. So thick that there is no weight savings infact. But what you do get is, if there is a failure, you will have one mighty squeeky clean track behind you as the cf turns into a giant sweeper/broom.

Ask Duane about that!

We have plenty of driveshafts on cars that drag race with big slicks. The driveshaft is designed to be the fuse of the drivetrain. If it doesn't break first something else will instead if there is enough of a shock load to the drivetrain! My guess as far as the example given here is that if this Supra was running a two-piece shaft something on it would have broken also. It is however all a matter of opinion and peace of mind. If running a two-piece driveshaft gives you peace of mind go for it.

 

[figgie]

We have plenty of driveshafts on cars that drag race with big slicks. The driveshaft is designed to be the fuse of the drivetrain. If it doesn't break first something else will instead if there is enough of a shock load to the drivetrain! My guess as far as the example given here is that if this Supra was running a two-piece shaft something on it would have broken also. It is however all a matter of opinion and peace of mind. If running a two-piece driveshaft gives you peace of mind go for it.

hmm

well that is why CF

even though aluminum will give before the drive train. It will cause some damage and help out the future v160 install by banging out the drive train tunnel REAL good Hopefully the car has no air bags because they will deploy when that DS bangs the undercarriage!

As for the two piece. I don't know under drag situation of that is a good or not since it is not sustained like road racing.

I myself run CF like UpgradedSupra (Duane) does. He is my IDOL!! :love: lol

 

[joliroger4]

The driveshaft is designed to be the fuse of the drivetrain.

I don't know if I buy that. You break a driveshaft, it can take either the rear or the trans with it if not both. If you have an auto and damaged the trans you run the risk of contaminated fluid getting in the converter too. Yeah, that's worst case, but it does happen and it's not fun or cheap, especially when you've dropped some money on your driveline.

 

[AGlobalThreat]

jeff @ Jawsgear, put down 720 rwhp on his 2jz-gte on a steel one piece driveshaft and he's done 20+ times down the 1/4 mi strip

and i know smiley in fl, has put down a lot of hp with our one piece driveshaft and the diff we built for him

Jawsgear steel driveshaft on mine as well. I've put about 1,000 miles on it and have taken it up to 140 mph with no problems and no vibrations.

 

[iheartmx83]

im going to be using a aluminum single peice when i swap my cress..... im not going to be running the car UBER hard, just cruise at a good 80-100mph. any recommendations ? i just dont want vibrations and crap.

 

[shaftmasters]

I don't know if I buy that. You break a driveshaft, it can take either the rear or the trans with it if not both. If you have an auto and damaged the trans you run the risk of contaminated fluid getting in the converter too. Yeah, that's worst case, but it does happen and it's not fun or cheap, especially when you've dropped some money on your driveline.

I would like to clarify what I said. When I referred to the driveshaft being designed to be the fuse I was talking about the OEM shaft. The car companies design their shafts to be able to handle at best 15% more hp and torque than what the vehicle it is being used in puts out from the factory.

 

[jdub]

im going to be using a aluminum single peice when i swap my cress..... im not going to be running the car UBER hard, just cruise at a good 80-100mph. any recommendations ? i just dont want vibrations and crap.

The driveshaft I got from ShaftMasters is balanced beautifully...read the review link I posted previously (post #12).

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

I would like to clarify what I said. When I referred to the driveshaft being designed to be the fuse I was talking about the OEM shaft. The car companies design their shafts to be able to handle at best 15% more hp and torque than what the vehicle it is being used in puts out from the factory.

So that means that the factory Supra driveshaft can handle about 267BHP? I don't THINK so... That's what about 215-220 WHP? How many people are over 400WHP with the factory driveshaft? More than a few, that's for certain.

If anything is a "fuse" in the drivetrain, it'll be the clutch.

Besides, by that design philosphy, what about FWD or mid-engine cars, which don't have a driveshaft. If the automotive companies are "designing in" such things, then something else would have to take that role.

 

[Ma70.Ent]

So that means that the factory Supra driveshaft can handle about 267BHP? I don't THINK so... That's what about 215-220 WHP?

Not that it has anything directly do to driveshafts, but I noticed that newer cars by most car manufacturers follow a rule similar to what shaftmasters said with either their transmissions or their driveshafts (or something), because the Scion TC's transmissions can't handle over 200 WHP (this is a manual one too) and Acura TL/CL automatic transmissions fail every ~30,000 miles (from what I've read, and because one of my friend's with a TL had his fail at around that mark). Yes, those are the transmissions, not the driveshafts, but I wouldn't be surprised if the newer driveshafts were more like shaftmasters said, but yes, I do know those cars I mentioned don't have driveshafts.

I'm not disagreeing with either of you, I just thought I'd throw that out there so you guys could use it in whatever way you want

 

[jawsgear]

Hmmmm, just ran across this thread.... some information on the shafts we make.

.125 wall thickness
1310 Spicer Ujoints
Spicer end yoke flanges
Spin balanced to aproximately 2500rpms

All our drivelines are built with the upmost care and workmanship. It is unfortunate that some people buy a drive shaft and the paint job is not pretty enough for them but the driveshaft is built for performance and we spray the steel shafts with a coat of black paint to assure they do not rust not for a HIN Show. If anyone ever has concerns about a balance situation you are welcome to send it in and we will make sure that there is no problem with the shaft at NO CHARGE! We cannot be resposible for other issues on your car adding to or relating to a vibration. Going from a 2 piece to a 1 piece does change the angle which may result in some vibration. Any real driveline shop will tell you the same thing. Unless you do something about the angle, eg.tilt the trans or the differential, to compensate for this angle it is a high probability you may experience a vibration.

Good luck to any other companies out there that will garuntee a 1 piece conversion to have no vibration.

Contact me direclty if you have any issues. My personal email is jwilson@jawsgear.com. My phone number is 916-922-5297. We are here M-F 8am to 5pm PST.

Jeff

 

[WhtMa71]

Besides, by that design philosphy, what about FWD or mid-engine cars, which don't have a driveshaft. If the automotive companies are "designing in" such things, then something else would have to take that role.

I have seen more than a few cases where honda's will strip the teeth completely off 3rd gear(dyno gear) usually they are turboed making big hp or are all-motor machines with a 1.8 liter making a little over 200whp.. I've also seen completely stripped input shafts more than once as well as stripped splines on the clutch.
FWD cars at the professional dragracing level have had plenty of problems with their transaxles. The scion TC for instance ended up going with a custom gearbox that drives a normal drive axle like you would see on the front of a 4x4 truck, with the engine sitting foward of the axle.
Honda's with 1100hp+ break trannys around every 2 passes. The problem is the actual case flexing.
I dont know about you but i would rather break a driveshaft(with hoops of course) than grenade my transmission and run the risk of fliud getting on the tires and making me wreck..shit flying thru the tunnel..etc..

 

[crazysupra2JZ]

I'm very pleased with my Steel driveshaft from Jawsgear. I was amazed how light it was. I will be driving in a couple weeks, once my swap is done.

 

[Rennat]

Jawsgear, how come you NEVER offered to re-balance mine for me?... funny.

If you have a steel shaft i dont think your going to be happy, i have pretty noticable vibrations at 60-65mph, goes away at 70 - 95ish and then after 100ish there (but i've only gone to 100mph like twice now)

shaftmasters makes a good driveshaft, and the aluminum one is priced at a point everybody can buy one. Not to mention last time i checked, they were like $100 cheaper from shaftmasters then jaws...

 

[jawsgear]

Jawsgear, how come you NEVER offered to re-balance mine for me?... funny.

If you have a steel shaft i dont think your going to be happy, i have pretty noticable vibrations at 60-65mph, goes away at 70 - 95ish and then after 100ish there (but i've only gone to 100mph like twice now)

shaftmasters makes a good driveshaft, and the aluminum one is priced at a point everybody can buy one. Not to mention last time i checked, they were like $100 cheaper from shaftmasters then jaws...

Well if my memory serves me correctly you were more concerned with the scratch on the paint job. If you choose to send it into us you are welcome to and we can check it out for you. Question for you though, did you buy the driveshaft from us or another distributor and are you sure that you are not confusing who you talked about the vibration with. I recall a few phone calls from a distributor of ours about scratches but not balincing/vibration issues. Maybe that info was never passed on to us.

Jeff