Driveshafts

[IJ.]

I prefer the 2 piece as it suits my driving style and car use.

 

[zoppii]

Resurrecting this thread from the dead but a great product and equally as great customer service deserves to be promoted. I just got my 1 Piece Aluminum drive shaft a few days ago and put it on replacing my steel one piece which replaced my stock 2 piece. I have to say this is one awesome drive shaft. Way better that any of my previous setups. SMOOOOOTH driving and it seems to make my Spec 6 puck clutch have less chatter. It will probably alway have a sweet spot but the sweet spot range seem to be a little more forgiving. I would suspect it might be due to the high quality U joints as well as the weight factor. My steel one piece had brand new u joints on it too and it still didn't feel this nice. No vibration at any speed so far.

- Thanks Shaftmasters

 

[crazysupra2JZ]

i just bought a steel driveshaft from jawsgear. i'll be able to test it out in a month or so

 

[figgie]

I want a single piece for the simple fact that it get rid of the carrier bearing that toyota wants $269 for..... And it gets rid of the center universal joint....less bearings to maintain means less headache (atleast in a perfect world)

umm those U-Joint are sealed. No need to grease them up????

<-- another CF one piece user here.

 

[Fuzz420]

For those who havent read it:http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29027

A little background Jaws gears sent my d/s via ground shipping. I needed it the next day. I called them back and they re-made me another d/s and had it at my door the next day, so i could make my local meet. The second shaft: the original, came in a week a later just like it wasnt supposed to and i sent it right back to them. No issue with service or the product from me stand up folks

 

[supraguy@aol]

Hmm.
I seem to be the only one on here that's bought from the Driveshaft Shop.
I got a 1 piece aluminum unit. Looks great, but I'm in the middle of my engine swap, and so it's about to go in. Hopefully, I can give a review of it within the week.

 

[Rennat]

driving home last night... i have bad vibration at 60mph... and anything above like 95~

i'll never buy a jawsgear driveshaft again... espeically since shaftmaster sells a better drive shaft for LESS.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

@Rennat: Is this something that just started happening?

How long has the shaft been in the car?

 

[Zumtizzle]

Who's "we"? You work for Jaws?

Carbon is also another option you forgot to add. It has worked for me. You can buy them from Titan.

Duane

And You can Buy CF DriveShafts from Supra Rich!


Great Guy to deal with Low pressure and great rock bottom prices.


-Sumeet

driving home last night... i have bad vibration at 60mph... and anything above like 95~

i'll never buy a jawsgear driveshaft again... espeically since shaftmaster sells a better drive shaft for LESS.

It's not Jaws Fault for that. Theres only so much balancing that can be done.

There is a slight angle on the stock DS. If you slide under with a pinion angle tester you will surely notice this. (from what i've seen.)

Let you guys have vivorators for supras, and keep cheapin' out on crucial drive train parts. Shaft-masters has a +1 on my book for their 2 piece option.

I personally know of a supra that had his single piece drive line made by a reputable shop known for their 18 wheeler and american applications and at ~400hp the son of a gun split. But he had no vibrations at all.

My take if you DD your supra Two Piece. If you race and don't really care Single. But this is my take.

 

[gofastgeorge]

I have a steel one from the Driveshaft Shop.
Love it !

There is HP to be gained from dumping the middle bearing.
I have read other tech articles on the HP loss due to bearing drag.
If I remember correctly, for something in the drive line,
it was in the 10-15 HP range, in the higher gears (higher drive shaft speeds).

My next one will be one of their aluminum shafts.
Aluminum will dampen out vibrations,
that at higher speeds can lead to failure.

And the Driveshaft Shop will do customs
(good if your going to a T56 like me).

 

[Zumtizzle]

There is a gain from orbital mass loss.

But just like light flywheels, when theres a load it doesn't matter.


Do tell how the T56 works out!

<-----------really considering it.

 

[Buddafucco]

1pc driveshaft is next on my list.

Analogy:
Breaking lug nuts loose.

socket + 6" extension + 1/2" impact gun= It will take a little longer with the extension.

socket + 3" extension + universal joint + 3" extension + 1/2" impact gun= good luck getting it loose.

That's what I got in my head. Does that theory sound stupid?

 

[IJ.]

There is a gain from orbital mass loss.

But just like light flywheels, when theres a load it doesn't matter.


Do tell how the T56 works out!

<-----------really considering it.

If it's "orbital" you have much bigger issues
(think you mean rotational)

The PMoI on a 3" shaft is very low so no real gains to be made there it's a bit of a placebo effect.

As I've said before most people are replacing Stuffed 2 piece shafts with a single piece so the improvment is exagerated.

I'd like to see back to back tests done on the same day with a new 2 piece and a new 1 piece, my gut feeling is the difference would fall within the error range of the dyno.

 

[WhtMa71]

Man so many choices..
Im holding off because i dont know weather to get a 1-pc steel, aluminum or a 2 piece steel/al. I never really drive my car over 120 but occasionally i will have an interstate race over 120mph (ususally up to 150 or so)
I dont want to get a 1pc and have it break in half and destroy my car.

Maybe if i get a 1pc i'll use the original bearing mounting spot to mount a driveshaft hoop.

 

[Buddafucco]

Drive driveshaft loop = within 6" of front universal joint. As per NHRA

 

[supraguy@aol]

Yeah, You HAVE to put in a driveshaft loop if you go one piece.
It's just too dangerous without one.

 

[WhtMa71]

Drive driveshaft loop = within 6" of front universal joint. As per NHRA

Oh ok thanks!

 

[Rennat]

@Rennat: Is this something that just started happening?

How long has the shaft been in the car?

its been in my car for a while... 5 - 7 months... and its always been like this, first time out i went up to 95, and i DID NOT like the noises i was hearing... and when cruising at 60 its not pretty either... but whatever... next driveshaft im getting is either shaftmasters 1 piece alu. or 2 piece alu... who knows...

i just know im not happy with jawsgear... especially there customer service...

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Driveshaft loop = GOOD THING.

I had an exhaust shop do something dumb with my old V8. When they mounted the exhaust, it pulled the e-brake cable up a bit. After a couple of weeks, and a few applications and releases of the e-brake, it came up a bit more. Just enough, in fact to touch the driveshaft, right behind the front u-joint.

So here I am, driving along when this cable that's been touching the driveshaft finally does it's inevitable work of cutting through the shaft. Had the driveshaft caught on the road, the results would have been ... unpleasant. I'm just lucky that it happened to let go at a low speed, as I was leaving a light.

 

[87mgte]

Driveshaft loop = GOOD THING.

I had an exhaust shop do something dumb with my old V8. When they mounted the exhaust, it pulled the e-brake cable up a bit. After a couple of weeks, and a few applications and releases of the e-brake, it came up a bit more. Just enough, in fact to touch the driveshaft, right behind the front u-joint.

So here I am, driving along when this cable that's been touching the driveshaft finally does it's inevitable work of cutting through the shaft. Had the driveshaft caught on the road, the results would have been ... unpleasant. I'm just lucky that it happened to let go at a low speed, as I was leaving a light.

:aigo::runaway: Your e-brake cable cut through your driveshaft? Wow, how many times does the average person get to say that during their lifetime.