confusing overheating issue!!!!

[jdmfreak]

ok here is my issue it started a while back and has slowly gotten worse......

:1zhelp:after i drive for about 10 min (i can idle forever without overheating) all my coolent starts dumping out of my overflow then after i lose enough it starts overheating a little at stops and if i keep driving it happens then too and gets worse and hotter as i lose more water. Then if i idle after it starts overheating it gets hotter :1zhelp:

first of all there is NO trace of water in my oil or oil in my water:aigo:!!!!


i switched to an electric fan on a toggle switch due to my fan shroud exploding when it hit my fan about 3 months before it started overheating
and everything was fine

i recently upgraded turbo, ic pipeing and went to speed density maft pro

i have replaced water pump, radiator, thermostat( i tested the new one before it went in) and tried 3 different caps (one off buddys 4-runner known to work)

what else is there to check:cry:??

is it possible that my new turbo is heating my oil up more than my old one and now my electric fan cant keep up???



EDIT: i am using stock water temp gauge but its dumping out overflow:/

also when my temp gauge is rising my heater stops blowing hot air but sometimes if i give it throttle my temp gauge drops and heater starts working

i flushed the system hooked heater valve up to constent vacuum and burped the system

Edit#2 it has about 3500miles on the rebuild mhg torqued to 102 ftlbs

 

[gottadiesel]

Did you already tell me that you connected 2nd fan (stock A/C) up to switch, but made no difference?

Also I assume you had not overheating the whole way home on Friday - right? So it is only stop n go and idle?

For others reading - keep in mind it is still only in the 40s or 50s, so still pretty cool out, I am not thinking it is a simple issue of cfm, but then again I have not done an E-Fan setup for a 7M before...

 

[jdmfreak]

yes i have connected both stock electric fans up to my switch

and no i had to pull over in kelso and let it cool down because it started getting hot while crusing but it made it all the way up there with no problems... :/

for others reading its an hour and a half drive to go up to gottadiesel's place

 

[Van]

ok here is my issue it started a while back and has slowly gotten worse......

:1zhelp:after i drive for about 10 min (i can idle forever without overheating) all my coolent starts dumping out of my overflow then after i lose enough it starts overheating a little at stops and if i keep driving it happens then too and gets worse and hotter as i lose more water. Then if i idle after it starts overheating it gets hotter :1zhelp:

first of all there is NO trace of water in my oil or oil in my water:aigo:!!!!


i switched to an electric fan on a toggle switch due to my fan shroud exploding when it hit my fan about 3 months before it started overheating
and everything was fine

i recently upgraded turbo, ic pipeing and went to speed density maft pro

i have replaced water pump, radiator, thermostat( i tested the new one before it went in) and tried 3 different caps (one off buddys 4-runner known to work)

what else is there to check:cry:??

is it possible that my new turbo is heating my oil up more than my old one and now my electric fan cant keep up???



EDIT: i am using stock water temp gauge but its dumping out overflow:/

also when my temp gauge is rising my heater stops blowing hot air but sometimes if i give it throttle my temp gauge drops and heater starts working

i flushed the system hooked heater valve up to constent vacuum and burped the system

Edit#2 it has about 3500miles on the rebuild mhg torqued to 102 ftlbs

I would test your coolant for hydrocarbons... to rule-out another BHG! Van

---------- Post added at 11:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:51 AM ----------

Did you already tell me that you connected 2nd fan (stock A/C) up to switch, but made no difference?

Also I assume you had not overheating the whole way home on Friday - right? So it is only stop n go and idle?

For others reading - keep in mind it is still only in the 40s or 50s, so still pretty cool out, I am not thinking it is a simple issue of cfm, but then again I have not done an E-Fan setup for a 7M before...

I have had two electric fans on the 7M one 1800 CFM and it was not capable until I had a aluminum shroud fabbed up for the Koyo Alum Rad.
Now my race radiator, has a 3000CFM fan and shroud, and I never see it running for more than a few minutes during the summer months, in town.
My point is get an E-fan and shroud that will pull all the air you can get through the rad. Van

Zirgo has some E-fans at a good value that run up to 3000CFM.

 

[jdmfreak]

my engine stayed plenty cool until i did all my upgrades
would they cause enough extra heat to make that much difference???

---------- Post added at 12:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:27 PM ----------

I would test your coolant for hydrocarbons... to rule-out another BHG! Van

SHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! she might hear you

 

[jdmfreak]

ok thought i may not have bled the system proporly after replacing radiator last night so i flushed the system and bled it good...also i had forgot to plug in the stock electric fan i added back in last night(the one between the radiator and inter cooler)

took it for a test drive and it seems to be ok resovore only filled up to full line and no over heating :eek3dance fingers crossed

....but now my heater only blows cold air...something i can deal with as long as i never overheat..... could i have something in there thats moving through the system???? gremlins maybe lol... any way back out to test drive some more


oh and with all 3 fans running my alternator is having a rough time trying to keep up......

 

[mkiiichip]

You may be on to something with your last statement.
I would go back to a stock setup with a new clutch and fan shroud. Any clue why the old ones ate themselves up? Bad motor mount?

 

[max-89supra(t)]

I forgot to tell you yesterday that you should probably do a hydrocarbon test just to be sure. If I were you I would just buy a shroud and put on a good stock fan and clutch, just my .02. A fan shroud allows the fan to suck air through the WHOLE radiator, the way your e fan is set up it only cover about half of the surface area on the radiator, and I doubt it pulls as much as the stock fan.

 

[IJ.]

Missing undertray?

 

[jdmfreak]

You may be on to something with your last statement.
I would go back to a stock setup with a new clutch and fan shroud. Any clue why the old ones ate themselves up? Bad motor mount?

Zip tie holding fanshroud on broke sending shroud into fan

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[jdmfreak]

I will try and borrow a schroud from a buddy... its still overheating but not as fast

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[jdmfreak]

Yeah its gone I have actually never seen an undertray

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[gottadiesel]

I am not disagreeing with several statements made on here in regards to shrouds, under-trays etc... as I think it is best to have all of them...

All I would say, is that I do not think that in itself would cause the drastic over-heating that I witnessed while sitting in this car... mine running the same day, is using a stock fan/clutch, but I have no shroud and no under-tray, have run in 95 degree weather and on a dyno at 80 degrees and have never come over 200-210 degrees...

So again I am in NO WAY suggesting it is a good idea to run without either one of them and I have been watching for both of them for a reasonable cost...

But what I saw sitting in this car was one minute sitting in the normal range (stock gauge 1/8" under middle) then go almost all the way to RED in less than a minute or two... My first thoughts were air in the system, but as he posted said he followed process to burp system...

I would at this point do one of 3 things - not necessarily in this order... put stock fan/clutch back in perhaps and see if that helps, along with double or triple checking for air in the system and/or the horrible BHG possibility... I was whispering when I typed

If it were mine those would be my next steps anyway...

 

[D.J.T.]

I have the similar problem. The coolant leaks through the overflow. If i drive it hard it gets EXTREMELY Hot inside the car, but the gauge never goes above 2-3 notches above the C. When Engines start overheating the radiator hoses tend to get puffy so i checked for that & they were fine. Its just the heat that gets inside the car & the A/C fan never kicks on while the car is running. If i shut down the car & a couple mins later i turn the key to the ON position it kicks on & since two blades are broken the car vibrates. lol

 

[jdmfreak]

Well its getting more infrequent as I have been fixing stuff gonna take it to the shop where my buddy works tomorrow and throw a pressure tester on the radiator and bleed it with one of those funnel things

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[Poodles]

You have another thread about getting the MAFT Pro tuned, that could be your entire issue...

Outside of that, coolant leak.

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

I had the same issue a long time ago, ended up being a plugged radiator. My temp never gets above 190F now

 

[jdmfreak]

Thanks I am now running a metal top radiator out of an automatic... no cold spots and itdefinately helped but didn't fix it entirely

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[D.J.T.]

Thanks I am now running a metal top radiator out of an automatic... no cold spots and itdefinately helped but didn't fix it entirely

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Have you changed the fan clutch?

EDIT! Totally forgot you were running E fans. lol, only thing i can imagine is that the E Fan sensor failing & that is causing the E-Fan or Fans to not kick on when they are needed.

 

[jdmfreak]

I have them direct to a switch on my dash... no thermostat when they are on they are on

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