No, I know a company called Vibrant makes them. Got one on the 91. However it may take a little Google searching to find it...
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Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this
- Thread starter Doat
- Start date
is this them? http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1022_1073
they don't seem to have the hose I need
they don't seem to have the hose I need
A pair of 2" 45 degree couplers and a small piece of 2" pipe?
Actually a 2.5" 45 degree coupler and a 2.5" 45 degree bend aluminium pipe are currently serving as my lower charge pipe almost all the way to my intercooler. I think that I have a short length of straight pipe to extend it a bit further, but that's it.
Actually a 2.5" 45 degree coupler and a 2.5" 45 degree bend aluminium pipe are currently serving as my lower charge pipe almost all the way to my intercooler. I think that I have a short length of straight pipe to extend it a bit further, but that's it.
I don't need anything that hardcore I am running a stock setup I'll go metal piping when I swap in a jz motor but I will keep that in mind. 2 45 degree pipes with 2in couplers?
No, 1 45 degree pipe, and 1 45 degree silicone coupler.
The 45 degree silicone coupler is directly connected to the turbo, so that I have fewer fasteners to deal with right there. The T clamps are a pain to get to, even with the accordian hose off. Then the 45 degree pipe is connected to the coupler. The coupler has some extra length to it, unlike the tiny 3" pieces which are the straight couplers, and the 45 degree metal pipe has extra length to it as well. Between the two, I was able to adjust the amount of overlap between them to get the perfect height going towards the intercooler.
Not expensive at all, particularly since I already had the 45 degree aluminium piece from the generic IC piping kit that I'd bought.
The 45 degree silicone coupler is directly connected to the turbo, so that I have fewer fasteners to deal with right there. The T clamps are a pain to get to, even with the accordian hose off. Then the 45 degree pipe is connected to the coupler. The coupler has some extra length to it, unlike the tiny 3" pieces which are the straight couplers, and the 45 degree metal pipe has extra length to it as well. Between the two, I was able to adjust the amount of overlap between them to get the perfect height going towards the intercooler.
Not expensive at all, particularly since I already had the 45 degree aluminium piece from the generic IC piping kit that I'd bought.
can you link me to the pipe and coupler I need please? or if I knew the size and length of the hose I can find a replacement.
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HTTP://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-elbow45deg2insilicone.php
HTTP://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-aluminumpipe45deg.php (choose 2" size)
$25 for the both. You may also want to pick up a piece of 2" straight pipe and a pair of couplers to be sure it reaches.
HTTP://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-aluminumpipe45deg.php (choose 2" size)
$25 for the both. You may also want to pick up a piece of 2" straight pipe and a pair of couplers to be sure it reaches.
One more thing, on cold starts I hear a slight knock for a very short time is that normal to happen? I figure it's because the oil isn't getting everywhere in time or something like that.
On my engines I usually lightly turn over the key a couple times without trying to start it to help get the oil going. Lucas oil additive is awesome too.
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so there is nothing I should be really worried about other than trying your start up method just to help?
Only thing you really can do. Lucas oil stabilizer will help the viscosity and make it climb through the engine better, lubricating everything. That's what I recommend. I use it on my 3000GT and will on the Supra as soon as I get it running again.
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I wouldn't.....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1831733
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2554545
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...bilizer-YES-NO&highlight=lucas+oil+stabilizer
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...-keep-using-it&highlight=lucas+oil+stabilizer
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1831733
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2554545
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...bilizer-YES-NO&highlight=lucas+oil+stabilizer
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...-keep-using-it&highlight=lucas+oil+stabilizer
interesting, I'll just leave it as is since I am not having any problems unless that slight rod knock on cold starts is bad.
Could be numerous other things as well from valve clearances to piston slap. Engines aren't designed to run optimally cold, especially performance ones. The clearances may be on the loose and as you mentioned earlier, the oil does take more time in colder weather to get to where it needs to go. Either way, it's not going to be something you can likely fix without tearing the engine apart. I'd be more concerned if it persisted longer, especially while warm.
Yea the reason why I don't think it's a big issue or one at all is because it only knocks for 2 seconds max during the initial start up then it's fine.
radiod;1892858 said:
This is in reference to what oil to use when breaking in a brand new engine... Different can of worms entirely.
I can personally speak from experience and use. On my 3000GT there was a very noticeable difference. Completely eliminated the tapping and clatter in the head. Those first couple second you are talking about Doat, some people will argue that it's nothing, but it's still wear, plain and simple. Over time, well you know... Like I said I only speak from my personal experience, and I think that it's a great additive, though pricy, my quiet non clattering engine and piece of mind is worth $8. I have never used it in my Supra, since the first time I tried it was after it was broke down, but once they are running and broke in I will. Up to the end user I guess.
Had tapping/lifter noise before adding Lucas, completely disappeared after using it. That's all the proof "I" need. I don't need a lab test to tell me the sound disappeared when I can hear it myself, lol.
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Personally, I don't like oil additives. If the oil really needs it, then why don't the highly paid chemical engineers working for the companies who make and certify the oil put it in in the first place?
Certainly they don't expect most people to have very high performance engines, but if they will market oil for high mileage engines, hot climate, cold climate etc... Also there must be a market for the stuff because it sells, so it's not like there is no reason for them to do it.
All I have seen of the Lucas product is thicker oil. Why not just use 20W50 or even just straight 30 weight instead of 5W30? (Rhetorical question, we know that answer, right?)
Anyway the "it works great for me" argument is far from proof that it really does any good. Show me an unbiased third party laboratory report and then I'll be convinced. On top of that the claim "works will all oils" means that you accept that all motor oil additive packages are the same, or don't matter. What if you are inhibiting your oil's detergents, anti-foam, or water resistance additives? How about changing it's multi-weight polymers? Can you absolutely guarantee the same results when the next API standard rolls out and oils are updated to comply?
I choose to pick a good oil in the first place and leave the additives on the shelf.
Certainly they don't expect most people to have very high performance engines, but if they will market oil for high mileage engines, hot climate, cold climate etc... Also there must be a market for the stuff because it sells, so it's not like there is no reason for them to do it.
All I have seen of the Lucas product is thicker oil. Why not just use 20W50 or even just straight 30 weight instead of 5W30? (Rhetorical question, we know that answer, right?)
Anyway the "it works great for me" argument is far from proof that it really does any good. Show me an unbiased third party laboratory report and then I'll be convinced. On top of that the claim "works will all oils" means that you accept that all motor oil additive packages are the same, or don't matter. What if you are inhibiting your oil's detergents, anti-foam, or water resistance additives? How about changing it's multi-weight polymers? Can you absolutely guarantee the same results when the next API standard rolls out and oils are updated to comply?
I choose to pick a good oil in the first place and leave the additives on the shelf.
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