see in the middle of the intake that bolt with a spot to mount banjo
thats your cold start injector
on the other side of intake, under throttle body is where it plugs in
Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this
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see in the middle of the intake that bolt with a spot to mount banjo
thats your cold start injector
on the other side of intake, under throttle body is where it plugs in
I looked under there and all I see is a banjo, do I follow the banjo line and it will take me to the connector?
Ahhh okay, when I get back I'll move the car near the garage and check it out. Thanks.
Ahhh okay, when I get back I'll move the car near the garage and check it out. Thanks.
on your fuel rail, there is the pressure regulator on one side and the pulsation damper on the other. then somewhere between those is a banjo bolt for connecting the cold start injector. it is the only rubber hose on the fuel rail. as i recall, it is near the FPR (closer to the firewall).
Well I thought I did but I don't see or feel a place for that cable to connect to.
This is the banjo you guys are talking about right?
Here is another pic of the plug I am talking about
It seems like it connects somewhere under the throttle body, should I remove the TB? Seems like that will give me better access.
I saw this in my radiator, should I just flush it and refill or does this mean there is another problem?
This is the banjo you guys are talking about right?
Here is another pic of the plug I am talking about
It seems like it connects somewhere under the throttle body, should I remove the TB? Seems like that will give me better access.
I saw this in my radiator, should I just flush it and refill or does this mean there is another problem?
The CSI connector points backwards to the engine so its impossible to see, but maybe you can feel it. For me because the space is so cramped between the runners it was impossible to connect anything to the CSI with it installed, so I connected the wiring and hose up, then installed it in the manifold with the two bolts.
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just put your hand under throttle body
youll feel with it plugs in
or remove throttle body then you might be able to see it
its not hard to plug in...just a pain to see haha
also it wouldnt hurt to flush your complete cooling system
you can either buy the flush kit which will put an adaptor in your heater core line(which means cutting you hose)
or take it to a garage so they can do it
either way i would recommend a flush
take care of the car and it will take it easy on the wallet lol
good job BTW on successfully doing a headgasket
youll feel with it plugs in
or remove throttle body then you might be able to see it
its not hard to plug in...just a pain to see haha
also it wouldnt hurt to flush your complete cooling system
you can either buy the flush kit which will put an adaptor in your heater core line(which means cutting you hose)
or take it to a garage so they can do it
either way i would recommend a flush
take care of the car and it will take it easy on the wallet lol
good job BTW on successfully doing a headgasket
I looked under the banjo and it stops at the fuel rail, so I am going to remove the throttle body. Oh and I have another fuel leak from the other end of the fuel rail, that regulator with a banjo, just needs to be tightened, so I will take care of that as well. I will flush the cooling system myself I've done it before and never had problems and it's not difficult. I planned on flushing it anyway once I saw that rust color.
Thanks, huge relief when I saw the temp gauge holding steady below halfway for 20-30min of driving. Now just need to fix these leaks, connect that plug, find the oil leak which I think is either the oil filter, oil dipstick, or the turbo oil drain it's coming from around that area for sure.
Thanks, huge relief when I saw the temp gauge holding steady below halfway for 20-30min of driving. Now just need to fix these leaks, connect that plug, find the oil leak which I think is either the oil filter, oil dipstick, or the turbo oil drain it's coming from around that area for sure.
Stops at the fuel rail? the cold start injector is mounted to the intake manifold not the fuel rail lol..
the fuel line your seeing goes from the fuel rail to the cold start injector
if your having a fuel leak issue then STOP driving the car
tighten or replace copper washers
my vote is the oil dip stick tube...is the tube bolted to the side of the turbo center cartridge?
oil filter shouldnt be leaking as long as you put a small layer of oil on oil filter seal...but even if you didnt it shouldnt leak but i have seen them leak
did you make sure when you removed old oil filter the old filter seal didnt stick onto the oil filter adaptor? common mistake
i normally put a small dap of black RTV on the turbo oil drain gasket
the fuel line your seeing goes from the fuel rail to the cold start injector
if your having a fuel leak issue then STOP driving the car
tighten or replace copper washers
my vote is the oil dip stick tube...is the tube bolted to the side of the turbo center cartridge?
oil filter shouldnt be leaking as long as you put a small layer of oil on oil filter seal...but even if you didnt it shouldnt leak but i have seen them leak
did you make sure when you removed old oil filter the old filter seal didnt stick onto the oil filter adaptor? common mistake
i normally put a small dap of black RTV on the turbo oil drain gasket
Oh the intake manifold lol I got confused lol.
Yea I am not driving the car at all with that fuel leak I just saw it today when I started the car up to adjust the CPS to at least try to make it not run rich and yea I will tighten it down.
I think it is also the oil dipstick tube because it leaks when the car is running but when it's stopped doesn't leak at all. First thing I will do is fix the fuel leak then the connector and then shine a light where the dipstick goes and start it up. I also doubt it is the oil filter because I always put a film of oil on the oil filter and never had problems with oil filters leaking, so I am pretty sure it is the dipstick or turbo oil drain.
Yea I am not driving the car at all with that fuel leak I just saw it today when I started the car up to adjust the CPS to at least try to make it not run rich and yea I will tighten it down.
I think it is also the oil dipstick tube because it leaks when the car is running but when it's stopped doesn't leak at all. First thing I will do is fix the fuel leak then the connector and then shine a light where the dipstick goes and start it up. I also doubt it is the oil filter because I always put a film of oil on the oil filter and never had problems with oil filters leaking, so I am pretty sure it is the dipstick or turbo oil drain.
I do not intend on having that fuel catch fire, I will soak up what I can then poured some water carefully in the areas I can't reach to wash it off. Come on guys give me more credit than that lol I am not going to drive a car knowing I got fuel spraying all over my engine haha.
Doat;1864616 said:
well then you sir are no fun lol
i would just use a rag to soak it up...then some brake clean and call it good
BTW can we get some pics of the car like interior and exterior pics
I moved the throttle body out of the way and connected the plug, put it all back on now to tighten that fuel regulator then deal with the dipstick.
Yea after I am done I will take some more exterior pics and interior pics after I clean her up, she is filthy right now lol interior just needs to be vacuumed and she will look like new.
With adjusting the CPS, which was retards the timing? It seems that if you turn it counter-clockwise I think the engine slows down and then dies if you go too far.
Is this how the regulator or whatever supposed to be? I tightened the bottom nut as much as I could, this is the regulator that toward the front of the motor next to the oil cap
Yea after I am done I will take some more exterior pics and interior pics after I clean her up, she is filthy right now lol interior just needs to be vacuumed and she will look like new.
With adjusting the CPS, which was retards the timing? It seems that if you turn it counter-clockwise I think the engine slows down and then dies if you go too far.
Is this how the regulator or whatever supposed to be? I tightened the bottom nut as much as I could, this is the regulator that toward the front of the motor next to the oil cap
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According to the TSRM I tightened that regulator properly.
Now I tightened that regulator so fuel should stop leaking, I deduced that oil was leaking from the oil dipstick because it felt like it was spraying from that area judging from what I felt in the surrounding area and splash pattern so I pulled the dipstick out, cleaned it up and put seal packing around the end of it, slide it back in and tighten it back up, and now I am giving it another 10-15min for it to harden or cure because that stuff hardens quickly.
Now I tightened that regulator so fuel should stop leaking, I deduced that oil was leaking from the oil dipstick because it felt like it was spraying from that area judging from what I felt in the surrounding area and splash pattern so I pulled the dipstick out, cleaned it up and put seal packing around the end of it, slide it back in and tighten it back up, and now I am giving it another 10-15min for it to harden or cure because that stuff hardens quickly.
when adjusting your timing. in little black box next to fuse box under hood...open the little lid...this is the diagnostic box
what you want to do is take a piece of wire or paper clip and jumper E1 and TE1 togehter(this puts tccs in diagnostice mode)also shows codes by flashing check engine light
underside of lid shows what connections are what
now start your car(hopefully fuel leak is fixed
) check engine light should be flashing...if so then proceed
grab a timing light, remove coil pack cover, attach timing light to spark plug wire #1...make sure arrow on ammeter head(timing light plug) is pointing in the direction of spark plug
grab a 12mm wrench and loosen bolt for cps
take timing light point down at crank pulley
on crank pulley theres a white mark...everytime the cylinder 1 fires this will light up the timing light
now looking down you will see the mark...what you want to do is rotate it wichever way so its at 10 degree mark on front timing lower cover
what you want to do is take a piece of wire or paper clip and jumper E1 and TE1 togehter(this puts tccs in diagnostice mode)also shows codes by flashing check engine light
underside of lid shows what connections are what
now start your car(hopefully fuel leak is fixed
) check engine light should be flashing...if so then proceedgrab a timing light, remove coil pack cover, attach timing light to spark plug wire #1...make sure arrow on ammeter head(timing light plug) is pointing in the direction of spark plug
grab a 12mm wrench and loosen bolt for cps
take timing light point down at crank pulley
on crank pulley theres a white mark...everytime the cylinder 1 fires this will light up the timing light
now looking down you will see the mark...what you want to do is rotate it wichever way so its at 10 degree mark on front timing lower cover