Centralia or Bust! ......Delilahs build

[CajunKenny]

Kenny, you only really need a couple of nice files if you've got the time. That's how I did the ones on my pickup ages ago.

I thought about using some of those resurfacing pads. I never thought of using files. After the ribs are off, just sandblast the factory powder coat off I assume...?

I'm a decent wrench and a good electronics guy; but, machine/metal working I haven't done much of. I think I can learn though!

Kenny, I think I will stick with this head, but I will let you know if that changes. It passed the harness test, is straight an although the surface looks bad (mostly because I havent cleaned it all since it will be surfaced) It will take <4Ks to clean it up. Plus It already has port work.

Ok. I was just throwing that out there. It'll be here.

 

[GC89]

I used an air grinder to do most of the work and then a good file to finish it up and make it smooth with the rest of the cover.

So for quite a while my car has had a little bit of smoke when I boost hard, normal for a ct with some miles on it. Recently it has started smoking at idle, and now does it most of the time. Its defensively blue-gray oil smoke. So I figured turbo seals are gone, or worst case valve seals are going. I was doubting valve seals a bit as the motor only has about 20K on it but then again its original so the seals and all are 21 years old.

So....

Pulled the plugs, tiny bit of build up but they are a nice tan color so doesnt look like valve seals.

Throttle body and piping are also spotless so its not the cold side seals pushing oil all the way through either

There was a bit of oil in the intake coupler pre turbo but not much, and none in the rest of the pipe

So I figured I will pull the o2 sensor and that should tell me if the turbo is dumping oil in the exhaust.



Wrong not even all black

So I am at a loss on what to check next. I still suspect its the turbo seals and have another turbo in the works but wasnt planning on working that out for a while. Any ideas on what else to check or what it could be?

 

[GC89]

So I decided to pull the DP and elbow and take a look,


Elbow shows normal dry build up

And the turbine and housing show very little at all and are actually a nice light tan color.

So I cant find any evidence of oil in the exhaust and am at a total loss. Any ideas at all guys???

 

[GC89]

Fuck exhaust valves!

 

[SilverSupraT]

Ha yeah I was gonna say that the valves could still be leaking. The seals aren't that tough to do. If I were you I would be happy to get those super old seals out of there!

...and yeah an air grinder would make getting those ribs off a lot easier. I did mine back in high school and didn't have any thing better to use at the time.

 

[americanjebus]

What do you know about progress? Found your 1jz clip yet?

haha ouch, I'm making progress outside of the garage for the time being.

If theres anything i've learned from working on the supra it's that when you do major upgrades ya do them all at once. I just gotta get my feet on stable ground before I start. :icon_wink

Ryan: does the smoke come on everytime you start it or just when its been sitting? Hows the smoke pattern look when you engine brake?

 

[GC89]

I dont know about on decel, but it was a steady amount of light smoke at idle particularly after the car was completely warm and had been driven for a while.






Right now I have a bigger problem, compression in cylinder 4 is low:icon_evil. Oil in the cylinder doesn't change it so its not the rings. Leak down confirms its at least one exhaust valve leaking so its coming apart no matter what. Right now Im trying to find a borescope to borrow to get a look at it before I decide to pull the head or the whole thing out. I might just buy one as they are only $100<>$200. So looks like those valve seals are getting replaced no matter what.

Im stumped first I though maybe the injector was slightly plugged and leaned out #4 and I burnt a valve but the plug sure didn't show it.


The only upside is when I pulled the exhuast side cover to make sure a valve wasnt stuck, holy shit this motor really is clean!

Well Im leaving for vacation today so when I get back Ill clean off some work space and figure out what to do.

 

[GC89]

Pulled the head yesterday, you know you have done this too many times when it only takes a couple of hours. Well its definitely not good, more info and pics once I figure out what I'm going to do

Ken I might take that head off your hands after all.

 

[GC89]

so anyways long story short, turns out something very very small was sitting in the plug galley just waiting to jump into my engine. I pulled the plugs it silently fell in, put it back together went to start it, obviously made a hellatious racket and I proceded to pull everything off and do a comp test. 4 came back low so off with the head!!!

After a few hours of disassembly

We get here

Heres the carnage.

Piston held up well, Im impressed.

Head not as well

and the culprit!

Heres the head fresh from the machine shop, you can see how clean it is with only 20k on it which makes this incident suck that much more.

And all back together with all shims checked and the two cut seats re-shimed.

Head gasket ready to go in

and all back in and torqued down, with ARP studs

Still have no idea where the nut came from, I'v never been missing one on anything so All I can figure is its been sitting in the galley for quite a while. So all in all a shity amount of very unnecessary work but what can you do. What really sucks is I was planning on working on my other motor this week but between taking up time and money it will have to wait awhile now:cry:

 

[GC89]

Got it all back together yesterday and drove it around a bit. Ran great, staying out of boost until the retorque here in about another 100 miles. Took it into town today, stopped somewhere and when I fired it up hot it was missing bad. Sounded like it was running on 4-5 cylinders exactly like a subie actually:sarcasm: Anyways I started thinking something got heat soaked messed with the coilpack and cps connections and checked all the plug wires. Ended up having to drive it home that way. Got it home and checked timing and that I had spark at all the plugs all good. So I said screw it Ill let it cool pull the plugs and do a comp and leak down. So I went golfing got back late and said screw it Ill mess with it tomorrow. When I went out to close up the shop I decided to start it up for the hell of it and bam perfect idle. Took it for a drive and it runs perfect. Oh and the only codes It was throwing were 24 (temp sensor) and 35???? So I know the 24 and the sensor is the problem now I just have to figure out what sensor that is. My ait shouldnt have any issues as its almost new and down by the headlight. I do have one temp sensor on the water neck that looks like its ready to come apart but thats not what would be throwing the code so Im a bit stumped. Ill start checking sensors tomorrow. If anyone has any ideas or knows exactly what the 24 applies to I would appreciate it.

 

[CajunKenny]

Hey Ryan! How's this going...still have code 24?

 

[GC89]

Swapped out my ait sensor for a fresh one I had laying around and now it runs great again. No Idea why the original would have issues only has a few k on it but who knows maybe I just had a weird heat soak condition. I know I havent been updating but the supra has taken a backseat for the time being due to other projects and toys. One of which I just picked up today! Ill get pics up in the next day or two of all my side projects because I know you guys will appreciate them.

 

[GC89]

Ok no go, still have the code 24 and 35 I just wasnt going on long enough drives. I have to drive for 20-30 minutes it seams like and then shut the car off and when I start it again it runs like shit an misses. litteraly sounds like a subie and will run like this from there on out. If I let it cool down for quite a while (>3 or 4 hours) it will start back up fine and be normal. The other strange thing is it doesnt seem to let me clear these codes. I pulled the efi fuse for over a minute twice and then tried and both times there they were before even turning the car over. I have tried changing the ait sensor, putting a 2.2k resistor between THA and E2 on the AFM plug and even straight jumping them and it doesnt change anything. I dont know if the code 24 is even my problem, sounds like others have had it without issues other than an annoying code. Next I was going to check the resistor I wired in between THA and E2 right at the ecu plugs, maybe the resistor is overheating and giving screwy values???

 

[CajunKenny]

I had 24 & 35 when I first installed my maft and was running it in AFC mode. It turned out that I had followed old install instructions and had to change two wires. After that, both codes cleared. You might want to post how you have it hooked up on fullthrottletech.com and see if someone can help there. TurboBob is a great help!

The resistance value shouldn't change with even a moderate amount of heat. The only way the resistance value would change is if there's enough heat for the resistor to burn and there shouldn't be enough voltage where you have it connected to do that. Unless there's a major problem, which I doubt.

As far as the resistor goes, what wattage and tolerance resistor are you using?

 

[GC89]

Im just confused because I have never had these codes or problems before and have been running the maft for a good 6 months of daily driving. I think I went with a 1.5k resistor between THA and E2? Its hard to remember maybe 2k, anyways I knew 2.2k= 60 degrees and my care see temps over that most of the time so I put something in to simulate slightly warmer.

 

[GC89]

Well no change in the car, still runs super ruff after hot starts. All I can figure is somthing is shorting or throwing a bad value when hot and causing the ecu to pull timing erratically. I'v swapped the AIT, and all the temp sensors and it makes no difference. I tried icing the ignitor after getting the car hot enough to cause the miss, thinking maybe it was going out and the heat was affecting it. No luck so next I will try swapping it with my little bros next time we are both home, hopefully this weekend. Any ideas? Im still stumped

Anyways I've also been busy with a new toy and project so I figured I would throw them up.


Heres the shiny new toy

And the project I just finished up

I have a batch aging for a few more days in the keg so If I can Drive the sup, at least I will have good beer!

 

[suprafanatic]

why did you take the Boss turbo off and put the CT on?

 

[GC89]

My set up I had at the current time wouldnt handle the boss

 

[GC89]

I haven't had much time for the sup the last couple months, and am finally getting back to it. Well it seems the code 24 and 35 have vanished, not sure if I really did anything that could have fixed it or not. I changed a few settings on maft took out a resistor and checked a bunch of wiring connections. So Ill have to take it on a very long cruz to make sure the heat soak condition is really gone.

In the mean time I have been getting to all the little things I'v been putting off now that I have a garage at my new place:naughty:

 

[CajunKenny]

What are you doing Ryan...dynomatting?

Would the long cruise you speak of be out my way?